Jump to content

Check Engine Light Just Came on


dsc73

Recommended Posts

Posted

01 yukon xl 1/2 ton 4x4 97,000. Please help.

 

I have three issues.

1.) For the last couple months it starts normal when cold but after its warm it takes 5-8 seconds to start. It seems to run rich when it starts both warm and cold?

 

2.)Last week the oil pressure guage started running about 25% higher then normal? When you turn the vehicle off it never drops below 20, like the guage is exaggerated. So is the oil sender unit bad, is that the reason for the high oil pressure? I disconnected the cable to the sendor then my gauge pegged to the right. I disconneted the battery and the guage still stayed around 20.

 

3.) After a couple days of the higher oil pressure the check engine light came on I connected my code reader and it put up 2 of the same codes p0332, p0332. My Hayes says this is a is knock sensor circuit, low output (rear knock sensor)

 

Where should I start?.......Thanks for you guidance.

Posted

I would say that you have several problems. For the extended crank, the first thing I would do is pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is any gas in it. If there is, replace the FPR. I would take it to a dealer and have a gauge sweep done with a tech 2 scan tool to determine if it is the cluster or the sending unit. As far as the P0332, check the bulletin below. Hope this helps.

 

Subject: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor) #02-06-04-023A - (06/14/2002)

 

 

 

Models: 1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette

 

1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird

 

with 5.7L Engine (VIN G -- RPO LS1)

 

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2002 Chevrolet Avalance

 

1999-2002 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

 

2002 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

 

with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4)

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade and Cadillac Escalade EXT to the Models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-023 (Section 6 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.

 

Cause

This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.

 

Correction

Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed below.

 

Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

 

 

 

Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.

 

 

 

Remove the rear bank knock sensor.

Install the new rear bank knock sensor.

Tighten

Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N·m(15 lb ft).

 

Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor.

 

 

 

Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown.

From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material).

Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

 

10456603

Sensor, Knock

1

 

 

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...