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1999 Suburban Troubles


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I need some help with some minor issues on my 99 Suburban. First, the door locks do not always work. The driver side rear passenger and the barn doors are fine. The two doors on the passenger side lock and unlock with the switch, but they look sluggish and will stop working if they are locked or unlocked right after locking or unlocking. The driver side front door lock fine but will not unlock. I have tried a new actuator on the driver side front to no avail. Since the wife has 5 kids to get in and out of this thing we need these locks to work. The second problem is that the daytime running lights do not come on. The dash indicator light says they arte on, but they are not. Third, none of the door lock or window switched light up at night. I have changing the bulbs, but they still wont work. They have power to them. If anyone out there knows where I should start trying to fix these little thing I would greatly appreciate it. This is a great site.

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I would begin by looking for blown fuses for you door lights and DRL.... The doorlocks seem to have problems with repetitive use, causing the actuators to heat up and intermittantly stop working. Lots of people like to have their daytime running lights disabled, so If you bought the truck used, they might have been modded...

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I checked all of the fuses for the DRL's. There are none blown. They worked fine until about Wedensday of this past week when my wife turned on the dome lights to tend to the screaming baby. I am thinking that the headlight switch might be to blame for this. Today I discovered a new problem: something is causing the battery to drain overnight. I have heard of the headlight switch going bad and turning the lights on, so hopefully this will be fixed as well when I replace the switch tomorrow.

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You need to check ground G202 behind the glove box. It is the ground for the door lock actuator relay and the lights for the switches. The DRL problem is usually the resistor. It is on the instrument panel support. If you look under the dash straight back from the accelerator pedal you will see a rectangular heat sinked piece about 3 inches long. I bet thats your problem.

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Update:

 

I have found that the DRL resistor is indeed the culprit! Thanks for the help ChevyTech007. I tried the autoparts stores, but they had no idea what I was looking for and could not cross reference anything. Is it ok in the meantime to jump across this connector so the lights will work? I checked the ground behind the glove box and it looks ok. I just have the door lock problem and the battery problem on my plate now. Thanks for the help guys.

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