Knock Sensors

sparky0484 · May 31, 2006

On my truck the code is showing for the bad knock sensor. I looked through all the previous forums on this topic I could find and found a lot of interesting information. I have a few more directed questions if anyone can help. Does anyone know approximately how long it takes to do this job? Also, it sounds like it's from washing under the hood, and I have done alot of this. Is there any other parts that have this same problem? I guess I'm wondering what else I am going to run into on this truck. As always, thanks for all your help!

snoman · June 1, 2006

On my truck the code is showing for the bad knock sensor. I looked through all the previous forums on this topic I could find and found a lot of interesting information. I have a few more directed questions if anyone can help. Does anyone know approximately how long it takes to do this job? Also, it sounds like it's from washing under the hood, and I have done alot of this. Is there any other parts that have this same problem? I guess I'm wondering what else I am going to run into on this truck. As always, thanks for all your help!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If it is the knock sensor itself that is bad, it is about a 5 minute job (or less) to change it from start to finish. One of the easest sensors to change generally

Wingnut · June 1, 2006

On my truck the code is showing for the bad knock sensor. I looked through all the previous forums on this topic I could find and found a lot of interesting information. I have a few more directed questions if anyone can help. Does anyone know approximately how long it takes to do this job? Also, it sounds like it's from washing under the hood, and I have done alot of this. Is there any other parts that have this same problem? I guess I'm wondering what else I am going to run into on this truck. As always, thanks for all your help!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If it is the knock sensor itself that is bad, it is about a 5 minute job (or less) to change it from start to finish. One of the easest sensors to change generally

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

On the OBS trucks...Sure.

On the newer trucks, the knock sensor is under the intake manifold, and THOSE take a couple of hours to change out.

mrfishaholic · June 1, 2006

On my truck the code is showing for the bad knock sensor. I looked through all the previous forums on this topic I could find and found a lot of interesting information. I have a few more directed questions if anyone can help. Does anyone know approximately how long it takes to do this job? Also, it sounds like it's from washing under the hood, and I have done alot of this. Is there any other parts that have this same problem? I guess I'm wondering what else I am going to run into on this truck. As always, thanks for all your help!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If it is the knock sensor itself that is bad, it is about a 5 minute job (or less) to change it from start to finish. One of the easest sensors to change generally

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am not going to say it couldnt be done in 5 minutes but I'd pay to watch a mechanic do it, and bet $5000.00 it cant be done in 5 mins!

I did mine on my 01 and followed a haynes manual. Took me like 1hr to remove the intake because I wasnt familiar with it and how to remove it easily. After I reassembled it I found out I should have used silicon sealant on the knock sensor plug to prevent it from happening again.

These are the steps as I remember

1 releive fuel pressure

2 disconnect neg battery terminal

3 remove the intake tube

4 remove the aparatus that goes from the exahust to the intake

5 disconnect the fuel lines

6 disconnect electrical wiring connectors for the fuel injectors, alternator and map sensor

7 remove the 10 bolts that hold on the intake manifold to the head, there is a sequence to do it in but I dont remember what it was

8 removet the intake, leaving the fuel rails and injectors intact to the intake manifold

9 there is a front and a rear knock sensor, normally the rear one is going to have water in it, but sometimes the front I was told. Mine was the rear one. But due to the cost of the sensors, I bought 2 new ones. Also, Get a new intake gasket set as it is not expensive and is easily installed and will help you avoid problems later. Get some good high temp rtv/silicon and run it around the aluminum where the rubber/plastic plugs plug back into the valley cover.

10 put the intake back on

11 torque to specifications in correct sequense

12 connect electrical connections

13 connect the thingy that goes from the exhaust manifold on pass side back to the intake

14 connect back up the air tube

15 connect the battery

16 check and make sure you got all your tools out of the engine compartment

17 start the truck

18 probably will need to clear codes and run truck to make sure you dont reset any codes.

IF that can be done in 5 mins, I got $5K that says otherwise! But it easily can be done in a half hour to an hour. I would recommend;

1 in/lb torque wrench

2 intake gasket set

3 replace both sensors

4 rtv/silicon High temp coat both the valley cover where the black plugs go and the black rubber plugs themselves.

5 get a haynes or shop manual that covers this if you havent done it before.

But that is my .02 cents

Mr. Smith · June 1, 2006

On my truck the code is showing for the bad knock sensor. I looked through all the previous forums on this topic I could find and found a lot of interesting information. I have a few more directed questions if anyone can help. Does anyone know approximately how long it takes to do this job? Also, it sounds like it's from washing under the hood, and I have done alot of this. Is there any other parts that have this same problem? I guess I'm wondering what else I am going to run into on this truck. As always, thanks for all your help!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If it is the knock sensor itself that is bad, it is about a 5 minute job (or less) to change it from start to finish. One of the easest sensors to change generally

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am not going to say it couldnt be done in 5 minutes but I'd pay to watch a mechanic do it, and bet $5000.00 it cant be done in 5 mins!

I did mine on my 01 and followed a haynes manual. Took me like 1hr to remove the intake because I wasnt familiar with it and how to remove it easily. After I reassembled it I found out I should have used silicon sealant on the knock sensor plug to prevent it from happening again.

These are the steps as I remember

1 releive fuel pressure

2 disconnect neg battery terminal

3 remove the intake tube

4 remove the aparatus that goes from the exahust to the intake

5 disconnect the fuel lines

6 disconnect electrical wiring connectors for the fuel injectors, alternator and map sensor

7 remove the 10 bolts that hold on the intake manifold to the head, there is a sequence to do it in but I dont remember what it was

8 removet the intake, leaving the fuel rails and injectors intact to the intake manifold

9 there is a front and a rear knock sensor, normally the rear one is going to have water in it, but sometimes the front I was told. Mine was the rear one. But due to the cost of the sensors, I bought 2 new ones. Also, Get a new intake gasket set as it is not expensive and is easily installed and will help you avoid problems later. Get some good high temp rtv/silicon and run it around the aluminum where the rubber/plastic plugs plug back into the valley cover.

10 put the intake back on

11 torque to specifications in correct sequense

12 connect electrical connections

13 connect the thingy that goes from the exhaust manifold on pass side back to the intake

14 connect back up the air tube

15 connect the battery

16 check and make sure you got all your tools out of the engine compartment

17 start the truck

18 probably will need to clear codes and run truck to make sure you dont reset any codes.

IF that can be done in 5 mins, I got $5K that says otherwise! But it easily can be done in a half hour to an hour. I would recommend;

1 in/lb torque wrench

2 intake gasket set

3 replace both sensors

4 rtv/silicon High temp coat both the valley cover where the black plugs go and the black rubber plugs themselves.

5 get a haynes or shop manual that covers this if you havent done it before.

But that is my .02 cents

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Gimmie a stick of dynomite and it will be done in 5 minutes.

Wingnut · June 1, 2006

Gimmie a stick of dynomite and it will be done in 5 minutes.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am intrigued by your ideas, and would like to subscribe to your newsletter.

mrfishaholic · June 1, 2006

LMAO ROTF,, This has turned hillarious.. I condur though, dinamite will get it done in 5 mins, dont know if it will stand up like a toyota does to a meteor or not though..........

snoman · June 1, 2006

I am not going to say it couldnt be done in 5 minutes but I'd pay to watch a mechanic do it, and bet $5000.00 it cant be done in 5 mins!

It depends on the model. If it is not a modular engine, it is a 5 min job unless your are very inept with mechanics. Poster did not state the year of his vehicle eithe but given that the knock sensor on amodular engine is not exposed to elements and his was effected by a wash, I assume it is non modular and therefore a 5 min job. I change one of these old styles once in a lot less than 5 minutes. If you can use a wrench, you can do it.

Norseman · June 1, 2006

On my truck the code is showing for the bad knock sensor. I looked through all the previous forums on this topic I could find and found a lot of interesting information. I have a few more directed questions if anyone can help. Does anyone know approximately how long it takes to do this job? Also, it sounds like it's from washing under the hood, and I have done alot of this. Is there any other parts that have this same problem? I guess I'm wondering what else I am going to run into on this truck. As always, thanks for all your help!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've got a hard copy of the TSB for this. Give me your E-mail and I'll scan it and send it to ya. Some time this evening.

Wingnut · June 1, 2006

I am not going to say it couldnt be done in 5 minutes but I'd pay to watch a mechanic do it, and bet $5000.00 it cant be done in 5 mins!

It depends on the model. If it is not a modular engine, it is a 5 min job unless your are very inept with mechanics. Poster did not state the year of his vehicle eithe but given that the knock sensor on amodular engine is not exposed to elements and his was effected by a wash, I assume it is non modular and therefore a 5 min job. I change one of these old styles once in a lot less than 5 minutes. If you can use a wrench, you can do it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

He's got an '02, so it's not a 5 minute job.

Draenor · June 1, 2006

Gimmie a stick of dynomite and it will be done in 5 minutes.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am intrigued by your ideas, and would like to subscribe to your newsletter.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think if you use the words dynomite and newsletter in the same sentence, the FBI is automatically tipped off. I think you'll be receiving a visit soon.

oops.....I guess I get a complimentary wiretap too.

sparky0484 · June 2, 2006

Sorry I didn't get back on here, it's been hectic around here, anyways, truck is a 2002 Chevy w/ 5.3 in it. Norseman, My email is [email protected] Thanks so much for being willing to send that info! I really appreciate everyone being willing to help. At first I was thinking this was going to be a miserable job, but now it's not sounding too bad. Does everybody else have their SES light going on and off from different stuff all the time? I'm starting to wonder if I should just pull the bulb and be done with it? Thanks again!

-Kevin

RyanZ71 · June 2, 2006

Never once had my SES or Check Engine come on, did have the Low Coolant light come on once as a result of a faulty sensor (common problem) but other then that... also I do wash the engine down on my truck once a year or so, keeping the engine clean prevents dirt build up on the grease which eliminates a heavy duty cleaning being required.

Norseman · June 5, 2006

Sorry I didn't get back on here, it's been hectic around here, anyways, truck is a 2002 Chevy w/ 5.3 in it. Norseman, My email is [email protected] Thanks so much for being willing to send that info! I really appreciate everyone being willing to help. At first I was thinking this was going to be a miserable job, but now it's not sounding too bad. Does everybody else have their SES light going on and off from different stuff all the time? I'm starting to wonder if I should just pull the bulb and be done with it? Thanks again!
-Kevin

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey, I haven't been on for a few days I'll get it out to you tonight sorry for the delay.

MS3DALE · June 5, 2006

Heres a TSB on this....

Subject: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor) #02-06-04-023A - (06/14/2002)

Models: 1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette

1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird

with 5.7L Engine (VIN G -- RPO LS1)

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2002 Chevrolet Avalance

1999-2002 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

2002 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade and Cadillac Escalade EXT to the Models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-023 (Section 6 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition

Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.

Cause

This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.

Correction

Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed below.

Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.

Remove the rear bank knock sensor.

Install the new rear bank knock sensor.

Tighten

Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N·m(15 lb ft).

Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor.

Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown.

From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material).

Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

10456603

Sensor, Knock

1

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

J4437

(F-Car)

Sensor, Knock -- Replace

1.7 hrs

Add

(1998-1999 F-Car Only)

To Remove EGR

0.2 hr

J4437

(Y-Car)

Sensor, Knock -- Replace

1.6 hrs

J4437

(C/K-Truck)

Sensor, Knock -- Replace

1.5 hrs

Add

(C/K Truck Only)

With Three Piece Engine Covers

0.2 hr

Add

(All)

Diagnosis Time

0.3 hr

Add

(All)

To RTV Area Around Sensor and Remove Intake Manifold Seal

0.2 hr

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

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