A/C "valve stem" leak help needed

Grimas · July 7, 2006

I was topping off the freon in my 2001 Suburban and noticed when I removed the connector from the freon can to the valve that freon was escaping/hissing from the valve. Is the internal valve the same as those found in tire valve stems? Can I remove/replace/tighten the valve with some needle nose pliers? I tried to place a peice of plastic over the valve (and screwed the cover over it to try to seal it). It worked for awhile. Any suggestions on the fix?

ken1mod · July 7, 2006

It is definitely a schrader type valve. sometimes they reseal when operated. If the cap seals tightly, it will probably not be necessary to do a perfect repair. many of these shrader valves leak and are sealed quite well by the cap.

Ken

redvett · July 7, 2006

If you put Freon in your R134A vehicle expect it to go south soon. Never ever mix the two.

Grimas · July 7, 2006

If you put Freon in your R134A vehicle expect it to go south soon. Never ever mix the two.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Freon = R134a in this case... Was being generic...

OnyxMAX · July 7, 2006

put a drop of the correct oil on the valve and connect disconnect the hose 3-4 times should lube the seal. if that dosent work you will need a new schrader iirc their replacable. unfortently that means a drain and fill.

hopefully it was just a slow closing valve. the cap shouldn't hold pressure it's basicly for dirt and dust.

ken1mod · July 8, 2006

I work on a/c units of all types. Many times the cap will allow a "pfft" when unscrewed. Many, many schrader valves leak slightly. Most of these caps are designed with an effective seal using o rings or a wrench-on brass cap.

I would not recommend a 100.00 repair without seeing that the cap simply does not work. Save the big buck repair and allow the cap to do its job.

ken

Grimas · July 11, 2006

I work on a/c units of all types. Many times the cap will allow a "pfft" when unscrewed. Many, many schrader valves leak slightly. Most of these caps are designed with an effective seal using o rings or a wrench-on brass cap.

I would not recommend a 100.00 repair without seeing that the cap simply does not work. Save the big buck repair and allow the cap to do its job.

ken

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This was more than just a "pfft" - I got a 10-15 second hiss. The schrader valve had gotten stuck. I used a set of needle-nose plyers to "tighten" the schrader valve slightly hoping to reseat the seal. Placed a but of plastic wrap over the top of the valve and screwed the cap back on. Seems to have held the last recharge...

Thanks all.