2007 Silverado Vibration Problem

[07Silverado4X4]

Hi, my first post comes on the few days after I bought a new 2007 Silverado Crew Cab 4X4. I love this truck and it was everything I wanted in a truck. Only problem so far is a vibration when going about 45 MPH with my foot barely in the throttle. I searched a few forums and found this problem described a couple times. Mostly with the general tires. Mine has the GoodYear Wranglers. I called the dealership and they said to bring it in and that it was probably a tire out of balance. Any thoughts here guys? There were mixed ideas on the problem. Anyone heard of this as a problem on these? Hopefully it will just be a tire but I am hoping it isn't an ordeal. The truck is great other than that. I know 4X4's arent the smoothest, etc but this is a decent vibration and it is only at 45 MPH. Thanks in advance guys.

[ctahoe]

The vibration doesn't happen more when your at highway speeds? Or when you brake?

[07Silverado4X4]

The vibration doesn't happen more when your at highway speeds?  Or when you brake?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

No it doesn't happen at all at hwy speeds and is very smooth say at 70MPH. Braking it does vibrate a little when braking hard at 55.

[ChevyTech007]

Ask the dealer to do a force variation balance. If that does not fix it then have them use the EVA 2 to determine the source of the vibration.

[GM-Tech]

throw 500 lbs. of something in the bed (sand/cement bags) and drive it and see if you still have the vibration.

[ssimps0n]

Check for any kind of tar/asphalt on the tires. I had a similar situation after getting some new Goodyear Fortera tires, when I took it into Goodyear they found I had a huge clump of asphalt on my front right tire. Moving it to the back so I could wear it off was only solution.

 

Guess a better question would be, has the vibration always been there or did it just show up?

[BlackLT06]

I have the same issue with my 2006 ECSB 2WD. I took it to two different dealers. They tried telling me the vibration was minor and was NORMAL! I make no claim to be an expert in the auto field, but on a truck that has all of about 1880 miles on it no vibration is normal. The second dealer even tried to tell me I have to break the tires in. I have never heard of that in my life. Anyway I took it to a independent tire shop and they discovered the tires are egg shaped. Now I have to wait for the rep to come to my area to get this right. so my advice is if they balance the tires and it still isnt right. Bite the bullet and pay to get it looked at b/c its cheaper then the cost of new tires. Oh yeah the dealer also had the rear of my truck balanced incorrectly so better safe then sorry...Hope it all works out for you

[pm26]

I have no vibration issues with my truck. It is an 06 Silverado 1500 Z71 crew cab with 5.3 V8 and 3.73 gears. I have Bridgestone Dueller tires. I am extremely sensitive to vibration and if there was any worth mentioning, I would be the first one to complain. Nothing up to 90 MPH (have not driven the truck faster than that.) However, I found out that the truck runs smoother(less jiggly) when I put about 200 lbs of 40 lb bags of topsoil in the bed. This is with driver only and no other load. The ride is noticeably smoother in the 65-80 MPH range. However, either way, there is not vibration per se to complain about. I wouyld feel it in the steering wheel if it was in the front tires, or in the floorboards and the seat if it was the rear tires.

 

It is amazing how poorly made some tires are today. My advice to those who have vibration problems due to tires, is to find a tire shop with a Hunter 9700 model road force balancing machine. These balancers have a roller that is pressed against a rotating tire to simulate on-road conditions and real loading of the tire. The machine then measure that road force variations. If the tire is excessively out of round, the machine will automatically flag it as unacceptable. In addition, these machnines are notoriously accurate wheel balancers too. The only tires I can recommend are Michelin LTX M/S. They seem to be well made, provide a nice smooth ride and last a long time. i got 70K miles out of a set on my '95 Nissan pickup. My coworker has a set on his Durango and has over 60K miles and still plenty of thread left. You get what you pay for.

 

Tires to stay away from: Generals, Continentals. Junk. Absolute junk.

[silverbugeye]

My 2006 2WD has the same vibration at 45MPH under light throttle. No other speeds is it there. It is also worse on smoother roads.

 

But it seems like it is getting less and less or I am getting used to it. I only have 1300 miles on my truck now.

 

I just now wait for things to get really bad before I complain. it not worth getting yourself all worked up about

[07Silverado4X4]

My 2006 2WD has the same vibration at 45MPH under light throttle. No other speeds is it there. It is also worse on smoother roads.

 

But it seems like it is getting less and less or I am getting used to it. I only have 1300 miles on my truck now.

 

I just now wait for things to get really bad before I complain. it not worth getting yourself all worked up about

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. I am taking it in Saturday for them to install the bedliner and look at the tires. The dealer has been great so far and the service tech was real nice on the phone. He said it is probably most likely a tire out of balance. My salesman also said they have had this problem when the truck sits there a while and it can cause a "flat" on the tire. One thing I have noticed is that as I get more miles on it the problem is starting to go away. I do still have a small vibration with braking but these problems are very small. I absolutely love this truck. I will post pics of it after I get the windows tinted. It's black and looks real nice. I will also post the results of my service visit.

 

By the way. If anyone isn't sure about the size of these trucks...The Crew Cab Chevy is the largest by far of the big 3. I drove the Ram and F150 and the back seat doesn't even come close. This truck was also the least expensive of the 3 so it made buying it for me very easy.

[pm26]

 

 

By the way. If anyone isn't sure about the size of these trucks...The Crew Cab Chevy is the largest by far of the big 3.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Dodge Mega Cab is actually the largest right now. It's absolutely huge! I would say it has about 8 inches more in the back than my Chevy crew cab. Plus you get a full 6.5 ft bed with it, which is plus also.

[07Silverado4X4]

 

 

By the way. If anyone isn't sure about the size of these trucks...The Crew Cab Chevy is the largest by far of the big 3.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Dodge Mega Cab is actually the largest right now. It's absolutely huge! I would say it has about 8 inches more in the back than my Chevy crew cab. Plus you get a full 6.5 ft bed with it, which is plus also.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Your right about the mega cab I did see it and forgot about that one. I was refering to the standard Crew Cabs. The Mega Cab is sky high on price too.

[ChevyTech007]

Document ID# 1844688

2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic - 4WD

 

 

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Subject: Suspension Vibration or Frame Beaming at 40-60 MPH - keywords chuggle rear shake shock spring TCC tire #PIT3009C - (06/28/2006)

 

 

 

Models: 1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic

 

1999-2007 GMC Sierra Classic

 

 

 

 

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This PI is being updated to add 2007 model and to advise that no more FPR are needed. Please discard PIT3009B.

 

 

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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Beam shake vibration is usually felt in the seat and occurring between 40-50 mph. Hertz readings using an EVA tool are normally between 8-24 Hz. This condition is most common on extended cab and crew cab models but has also been noted in other models.

 

Recommendation/Instructions:

The severity of beam shake may vary from vehicle to vehicle. To determine if the concern is beam shake, please perform the following:

 

Test drive vehicle to confirm the condition. A beam shake condition will usually respond to concrete type pavements more than asphalt, so the vehicle should be driven over both surfaces if possible.

Place 200-500 pounds in the pickup bed between the closed tailgate and the wheel wells. A beaming condition should dissipate.

If the concern is determined to be beam shake, this is a characteristic of the vehicle and currently no repair attempts should be made. With your help in the use of the Field Product Reporting process GM Engineering is currently developing a enhancement to the body mounts to reduce this concern on the 1500 Models and should be available shortly. There will be no enhancement made to the 2500 and 3500 models. At this point no more Field Product Reports are needed and Thanks for your help.

 

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

[MS3DALE]

I just found that same bulletin on GM-DealerWorld.

Heres another one thats somewhat related,It has you changing the front body mount as mentioned in the earlier bulletin.......

 

 

Document ID# 1851576

 

Subject: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator) #06-08-61-003 - (07/28/2006)

 

 

 

Models: 2004-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

 

2004-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2004-2007 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic)

 

2004-2006 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL

 

2004-2007 GMC Sierra (Classic)

 

 

Condition:

Some customers may comment on a pop or clunk type noise while turning or driving on uneven road surfaces. This noise can be heard and/or felt at either the driver's or front passenger floor pan area.

 

Cause:

Under certain conditions, normal movement between the frame and body mount may cause this noise to occur.

 

Correction:

Install an insulator at the right and left side #1 body mounts. The insulator should be installed between the upper portion of the body mount and the frame bracket. The #1 mount is the mount located just under the A-pillar. Use the procedure listed below.

 

Raise the vehicle on the hoist. It is recommended to use a four-post lift or strap the vehicle frame to the hoist arms.

For the left side mount only, remove the intermediate park brake cable. Perform the following steps:

2.1. Remove the nut from the park brake equalizer.

 

2.2. Remove the intermediate cable from the equalizer.

 

2.3. Depress the retaining tabs that secure the park brake cable to the frame.

 

2.4. Pull slightly on the cable from the mounting area in order to provide slack for body movement without binding the cable.

 

Remove all of the body mount bolts on the side being repaired.

Properly support the body at the #1 body mount area.

 

 

 

Caution: When you remove the body mount, do NOT separate the frame from the body more than is necessary. Possible personal injury and damage to multiple parts may result.

 

Lower the chassis accordingly in order to remove the upper portion of the #1 body mount.

Important: While the body mount is removed, check the underbody area that interfaces with the top of the body mount for excess build-up of E-Coat Primer or other foreign material. If the surface is not smooth use a 90 degree die grinder, or equivalent to remove the excessive build-up. Apply an anti-corrosion protection, P/N 12378398 (in Canada, 10952414), to the bare surface as necessary to prevent rusting.

 

 

Install the new insulator to the bottom of the top portion of the #1 body mount. .

Install the #1 body mount to the frame bracket.

Perform the following procedure before installing the bolts.

8.1. Clean the bolt threads of all the original thread locking compound.

 

8.2. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.

 

8.3. Apply Threadlocker, GM P/N 12345493 (In Canada use P/N 10953488).

 

Install the body mount bolts.

Tighten

For 2004 and 2005 model year, tighten the bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).

 

Tighten

For 2006 model year, tighten the bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).

 

Reinstall the intermediate park brake cable.

Repeat steps 3-9 for the other side.

Test drive the vehicle to verify the repair.

 

Parts Information:

Part Number 15899719

Description:Insulator,Body

Qty:2

 

 

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

 

E9438*

Install Insulator to #1 Body Mount

1.7 hrs

 

* This is a unique labor operation number for use only with this bulletin. This number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

 

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

 

Document ID# 1851576

[pm26]

That is good and useful info. I fully agree with their adivce to place 200-500 lbs over the rear wheels in the bed of the truck to see if the ride improves. I found my truck rides smoother with about 200 lbs worth of top soil bags in the bed. These bags come in handy too- I use them to secure long loads such as pipes, boards, etc.