Jump to content

Propane option kl5


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am seriously interested in converting a 1500 to bi-fuel operation. Many sites, including chevrolet.com and edmunds.com, to name a couple, show a "KL5" mod that looks like a "pre-op" for an after-market propane conversion which costs appx $800 MSRP. It appears to be available on the 1500HD and the 2500HD and shows up when you attempt to 'build' a vehicle interactively on the sites. One of the aftermarket guys http://baftechnologies.com, even claims to have a kit available specifically for the K2500 Silverado 6.0L w/KL5 option and there are various other references to it on any web search. In fact, the KL5 reference has been out there a couple of years now.

 

However, I'm finding this very elusive. I've never found a KL5 in an inventory listing. The chevy dealers have no idea what I'm talking about (although "if we could fix this for you would you buy the vehicle today?"), and I found a deeply obscure reference on http://www.wheels.com that suggests the KL5 is "on hold until further notice."

 

So: Does anyone have or has anyone seen a live KL5 package? Or does anyone have additional information on converting to propane, as in some place that actually really does it to specs? Or is all this simply smoke and mirrors? TX.

Posted
If it makes you feel any better i have NEVER heard of that in my life from GM and i work at a dealership!

 

 

 

WOW! HE LIVES! Welcome back to reality :cheers:

 

I havent seen this option or heard of it either. And another thing to keep in mind...depending on where you do your driving...how plentiful is propane "pumps" if you will? Though I suppose if it is a "dual setup" you can choose one or the other...but then wouldn't it require two seperate tanks? Just some random sputtering from me. Kind of curious myself now....

Posted

the option just sets up the engine to accept the regulator and other propane stuff lines for the tank ect... plus you need a huge honking tank to stick in the bed. you also need a place to get fuel. bbq grill tanks wont get you anywere.

 

unless you have a place to fill, and don't mind the stink, and don't mind still using forien oil (porpane is refined from oil), and don't mind a tank the size of a tool box in your bed then go for it. otherwise the e-85 engine is prolly better choice.

 

CNG option is the same.

Posted

The option "KL5" does exist,I've seen them,We actually ordered a couple at the dealership were I use to work at up home.

All this option means is that the engine is ready to be converted to CNG,The truck must be converted over to accept CNG.

 

Like OnyxMAX said,The CNG option is the same,But in this case the truck is "ready to run" on CNG right from the factory,It does not need to be converted.

This is available two ways...

RPO code "KL6" Bi-Fuel Compressed Natural Gas and "KL8" Dedicated Compressed Natural Gas.

 

The KL5 option is around $800.00,However the KL6 and KL8 options are around $8,000.00 but the truck is "ready-to-run" on CNG.

 

Hope this wasn't too confusing :cheers:

Posted

Thanks for the information. In reply to some of the issues raised: Yup, for bi-fuel you will have two tanks and the only place to put it is in the bed. You could do a 30 gallon tank and it wouldn't be a monster (6x bbq size) but it would take up space. For the dedicated fuel the tank can replace the existing. And yup, it's got to be available. There are a few stations in any major metro area, but it isn't widespread unless you're talking Canada where the propane infrastructure is better developed and there are more conversion sites. But E85 stations aren't exactly plentiful either. There is not one E85 public station in all of western Washington. A couple are on military bases. And if you're talking CNG, the supply is from North America, not Saudi. But all you need is one public station reasonably close and you're home free. If you did a road trip far away, you'd have to map out the stations. You can do that here: http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html. Besides, on a bi-fuel you just flip a switch.

 

The EPA has got its nose in all this and dictates that any converted engine must be government certified. But the 6L chevy does have its certification, so we're past that roadblock. ALSO, the Feds passed a law that says you get a tax CREDIT (NOT a deduction) for 50% of the difference between a regular fuel and a dedicated (NOT bi-fuel) alternative up to $XX. So, the way I read this is if the difference between a normal 1500 and a 1500/KL8 is $8,000, you get a $4,000 credit, which, assuming 25% for the sake of argument, means you get a $16,000 worth of income tax free that year. If yer in the 33% bracket, adjust accordingly.

 

I know lots of people consider this an unviable option at this point. But it's viable for me, and I want to do it if I can. So if I can get the mod and if I can find an aftermarket installer, I'll go anywhere in the country to get it done. (Well, maybe not NYC!)

Posted

some metro areas with cng home service offer a alternative fuel meter, basicly a cng pump in your garage that runs off your home gas meter. but that service would have to be available in your area.

 

pop used to have a 100 gallon propane in the bed when he worked for a propane company. it was the company service truck. the kodiac bob tail also ran on propane from the big tank in back.

Posted
and don't mind still using forien oil (porpane is refined from oil),

 

 

 

 

Actually most propane is produced domestically. It is also a by-product of natural gas, which is 'plentiful' in N. America,

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Any way I can convert my LQ4 6.0 to bi-fuel after the fact? I've heard you need special heads, but that doesn't make sense.

Posted
and don't mind still using forien oil (porpane is refined from oil),

 

 

 

 

Actually most propane is produced domestically. It is also a by-product of natural gas, which is 'plentiful' in N. America,

 

 

Thats correct, I work at a propane and butane facility. Our NGL(natural gas liquids) feed comes from Western Canada.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
Any way I can convert my LQ4 6.0 to bi-fuel after the fact? I've heard you need special heads, but that doesn't make sense.

 

Converting your truck would be fairly straightforward and very similar in many ways to this 2003 Sierra 1500 (4.3L) conversion. As with all modern propane injection conversions, switching back & forth between fuels is very easy. You should be familiar with the requirements of NFPA 58 if you want to do this work yourself.

 

Normally, if your heads are in good condition, there is no need to install hardened exhaust valve seats.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...