Jump to content

ABS override switch


Recommended Posts

Posted

In the new issue of fourwheeler mag, they have a brief tech article about an ABS override switch install. I think this is a great idea and would like to do it in my 97 k1500. I find myself wishing I could shut the ABS off fairly often when I am off road. I could just pull the fuse, but I never think of it until I am trying to lock up the wheels going down a sand dune or in deep gravel and at that point its too late.

 

The idea is simple. You pull the ABS fuse, use fuse taps and an in-line fuse holder to extend the wires to a toggle switch in a user friendly location on the dash. You can then just flip the switch to turn ABS on and off.

 

Here's my problem. I have a 10A fuse in the cab (#18) that is labeled "Brake" and the owners manual description is "4WAL/VCM, ABS, cruise control". I also have a BIG-ASS 60A fuse under the hood that is labeled "ABS" and the description is "Anti-lock Brake Module".

 

Will the 10A in-cab fuse turn off the ABS? Or do I have to tap into the Big 60A fuse under the hood? I was at radio shack today and I didn't find any switches or fuse holders rated for 60A. To switch out the 10A fuse would be a piece of cake. The 60A fuse would be a Major PITA.

 

What do you guys think?

 

Steve

Posted

Ok, I did some messing around last night and the 10A fuse in the cab is the one I put a switch on. I experimented on a gravel road, I can stomp on the brakes and ABS will kick in. I can pull the 10A fuse, my ABS dash light will come on, and when I stomp on the brakes, NO ABS!

 

So, I installed the ABS override switch and it works like a charm. I like the fact the ABS light comes on when the switch is turned off. This is a good reminder to turn it back on again when I'm done wheelin'.

 

I did take pictures this time!

 

OK, This is how I did it. You will need the following parts:

  • an appropriate toggle switch
  • fuse taps
  • an in-line automotive fuse holder
  • spade connectors
  • shrink tubing

1) find your ABS fuse and pull it to test if your ABS shuts off and no other functions are compromised. My ABS light came on and the ABS was no longer active. I also drilled a small hole to run the wires through to the dash.

2276284_9_full.jpg

 

2) wire the fuse taps to tie in to each side of the space where you pulled the fuse. I had to carefully grind the fuse tap so it was a little thinner in order to get it to insert into the fuse panel. This is the fuse tap attached to the in-line fuse holder. I used a spade connector and then used shrink tubing to get a good tight fitting.

2276284_10_full.jpg

 

3) Connect the two fuse taps and wires to the empty ABS fuse slot and run them to the dash location where you want the toggle switch. I used a small piece of shrink tub to neatly hold the wires together.

2276284_11_full.jpg

 

4) Determine where you want your switch. Drill the appropriate size hole and mount the switch. (make sure the space behind the mount is clear of wires, etc.!)

2276284_12_full.jpg

 

This is what the switch looks like after being mounted.

2276284_13_full.jpg

 

5) feed the wires through to the switch, hook up your wires to the switch and put your dash back together.

2276284_15_full.jpg

 

6) the finished project! :bs:

2276284_14_full.jpg

 

The switch seems to work really well. Like a said before when the switch is off, My ABS light comes on and I can lock up all four wheels and slide to a stop on gravel. I am heading up to Silver lake with my family for a three day weekend at the end of August,

(next weekend!)I am looking forward to finally being able to turn OFF ABS when I am in the sand! :cheers:

 

Steve

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I'm hoping this isn't too late in getting to you, seeing as the last edit was in 2006. However, I'm attempting to do this on my Tahoe and I was wondering what the trick was with the fuse taps. I grind them down to fit in the fuse block, but the always seem to bust off. Did you cut them down more than what was available? Also, they don't seem to stay in the fuse block when I do install them. Any help would be great.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...