Jump to content

DISABLE DRL(Daylight Running Lights) and Auto Head


Recommended Posts

Posted

Im getting ready to installed HIDs on a 2002 GMC Sierra but I want to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights before anything. I need HELP...

 

Thanks for any advice

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Think by pulling the #30 fuse will disable the DRL. Will also disable the approach lightsd if I remember correctly, as its only consequence. The Auto headlights are a mystery to me. :shakehead:

Posted

I read that with the ignition on, push your dome override button 4 times. See if that works and let me know, if not I will track down the literature on it and get it to you.

Posted
Im getting ready to installed HIDs on a 2002 GMC Sierra but I want to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights before anything. I need HELP...

 

Thanks for any advice

 

 

 

 

Why would you want to do that? I have HID's and left everything as is and it works fine.

Posted
I read that with the ignition on, push your dome override button 4 times. See if that works and let me know, if not I will track down the literature on it and get it to you.

 

 

 

That just shuts the light off until you start the truck again.

It sounds like he wants to disable them completely, right Comptect ?

I've wanted to do this on my Jimmy, but it seems as though it can't be done.

But then again, my DRL's are the highbeams, just dimmed a bit. Yours may be different.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

If you are looking for temporary fix for hunting, depress your parking brake one click and they go off, you then have the parking brake light on the dash to put up with.

Posted

for the DRLs you can pull the fuse under the hood

 

for 02s auto headlights I think all you can do is flip the switch and it goes to park lights.

 

You could try ductaping a flashlight over the sensor on the middle of the dash, it will think its daylight., putting the parking brake on a little does work, but then youll be dragging it.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Im getting ready to installed HIDs on a 2002 GMC Sierra but I want to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights before anything. I need HELP...

 

Thanks for any advice

 

 

 

 

Check out this website, I did it on my 01 and it works great

 

http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html

 

:cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

I have a 99 Envoy and been search high and low how to turn off drl and automatic headlights to no avail.....the person with the jimmy, wonder if u know how to turn off the feature that turn off the drl when ur turn signals are on????? i hate that sh*t make it look like i'm flashing at oncoming traffic.... :flag:

  • 2 months later...
Posted
Im getting ready to installed HIDs on a 2002 GMC Sierra but I want to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights before anything. I need HELP...

 

Thanks for any advice

 

 

 

 

 

I wanted to do this myself so I searched and found several methods of doing it.

This is the easiest. You don't have to take the dash apart or cut any wires. Just a simple in line resistor.

Here it goes:

 

To disable the auto headlights you need a 1.5K ohm resistor (Radio Shack) and electrical tape.

 

First locate the Body Control Module (BCM) which is under the dash, below the steering column. Laying on the floor, this should be visible without removing any dash panels. You should find a purple connector (C3). Unplug it.

 

Locate the white and gray wires (A4 and A6). I don't remember if white is A4 and gray is A6 or vice versa. It doesn't matter anyway. BTW - there are two gray wires in the connector. The one you want is the one farthest away from the white wire.

 

Tap the gray wire from the plug (C3) to one end of the resistor and the white wire to the other end. You don't need to cut the wires. Make sure you tape up all wires to prevent a short. You should now have a gray wire coming from C3 tapped to one lead of the resistor and the white wire from C3 tapped to the other resistor lead *. Plug C3 back into the BCM. Start the truck and make sure the lights are off. Throw a dark towel or something over the light sensor on the dash and verify the lights stay off. Try your light switch that has probably never been used and that's it! Takes about 5 minutes.

 

*You can add a switch here if you want. Just connect one end of the resistor to one of the wires in the connector (doesn't matter which one) and the other end of the resistor to one side of the switch. Then connect a wire from the other side of the switch to the other wire in the connector. This will allow you to turn Twilight Mode on and off.

Posted
Im getting ready to installed HIDs on a 2002 GMC Sierra but I want to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights before anything. I need HELP...

 

Thanks for any advice

 

 

 

if your installing hids in the headlights, may i ask why you want the driving lights off since there separate or are your driving lights the headlights? only thing i can think of is to find out what wire is giving them power at start up and cut it so you can control it through the switch, and for your auto headlights, if it uses the light sensor and not just "always on" then you can take the auto sensor and wire it where it see "day" all the time, which for that i dont knwo how you can do it, maybe just cut the wire or unplug it or somthing? dont know

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

On my 1999 Tahoe it is as simple as pulling a fuse. However I have never found out how to turn of the annoying DRL indicator light on the dash. Now thank god the bulb burned out, so I won't have to deal with it any more. As far as DRL goes I finally decided to leave them on. After debating the issue with myself I decided I personally actually find DRL a cool feature. I like the DRL looks especially on the 2000+ trucks.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
Tap the gray wire from the plug (C3) to one end of the resistor and the white wire to the other end. You don't need to cut the wires. Make sure you tape up all wires to prevent a short.

 

Looks like I'm brining up an old thread here but......When you say "tap" do you mean insert one end of the resistor into the wire input. Such as the diode 4-Hi Mod?

 

Also, can heat-shrink tubing be used in place of the electical tape?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

I also can't locate the purple C3 plug on the BCM.

 

sideshotofgrayplugremoval.jpg

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Following is what I did to defeat the DRL function in my 2004 GMC Envoy. The headlight switch is normallly in the AUTO position and DRL is on everytime you crank the car. To turn DRL off, you have to rotate the headlight switch CCW momentarily. For this vehicle, all the switches and inputs go to the computer (Body Control Module - BCM), which is located at the under-seat fuse box. Connector C1 is the bottom connector. Connector C2 is above C1. Connector C3 is the horizontal one that connects to the fuse box with a flat sheet. The BCM program figures out what outputs to turn on and off. There is no single fuse or relay you can remove to disable DRL. It seems like you should be able to ground BCM connector terminal C2-F8 (light green wire), but that does not work. When you get through, there are two anomalies: 1) You will be able to turn your high beams on when the engine is running without the headlight switch being on; (2) When your turn your high beams on with the headlight switch on, both low and high beams will be on.

 

 

 

I have a set of factory service manuals, which really helps. Some of the info may not mean much without having a copy of the wiring diagrams.

 

 

 

1. Disconnected the pink wire with the white stripe from BCM connector C1-A5 [bCM output to Headlamp Driver Module (HDM) - Looks like a relay, but is a solid state relay type device. The HDM is relay 46 in the hood fuse block.]

 

 

 

2. Splice a white wire into the white wire at BCM connector C2-F9 (BCM input from the headlight switch). Connect this new white wire to the pink wire with the white stripe removed in step 1. When your turn your headlights on with the switch, it will provide a signal to the BCM and to the HDM. The high beams will not work unless you keep this input to the BCM.

 

 

 

3. Cut the wire trace C3-A14 in the flat wire connector C3 to interrupt that signal path. Solder a wire to the fuse box side of A14. Cut away a part of the connector plastic to get to the terminal. See the photo.

 

 

 

4. Disconnect the grey wire with the black stripe from terminal C2-E5. Connect this to the wire you just soldered to C3-A14.

 

 

 

This assumes you are familiar with basic troubleshooting and handyman skills and that you will properly insuate your splices, etc. Needless to say, this will void your warranty if it is still in effect.

 

post-58111-1230831990_thumb.jpgpost-58111-1230832013_thumb.jpgpost-9-1077422807.jpgpost-58111-1230832269_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831971_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831971_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831990_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230832013_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230832269_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831971_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831990_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230832013_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230832269_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831971_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230831990_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230832013_thumb.jpg

post-58111-1230832269_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 99 K1500 with DRL for the low beams. I cut the ground wire for the DRL control unit and still have normal light operation, minus the DRL of course.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...