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Go to 4.10 or not


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Posted

Got my 98 ext. cab long bed with 3.42 gearing. I haul a camper with a dry weight of 4100 lbs. and gvwr of 4950 lbs.. Don't have a problem right now. I keep it easy and go about 6 times a year for a total of 2000 miles of towing.

I do have the heavy duty chassis package wich gives me the 14 bolt rear and larger springs and brakes. It does however have the lighter duty 60 auto tranny and not the 80. It has the 5.7 in it.

The camper I am looking at will weigh 6150 lbs. dry and a gvwr of 9400 lbs. I will never be near 9400 lbs. It states that much carrying capacity because of the type of camper it is. I would most likely see 7500 lbs. max.

Question is would regearing from 3.42 to 4.10 solve my problem or just be a patch? I can barely afford the camper, never mind a truck to go with it.

Secondly, do I have to reprogram my computer for the change?

 

Thanks for any info!

Scott

Posted

What's the tow rating for your truck? Keep in mind that the tow rating specified by GM assumes only the driver in the vbechicle. It does not include any extra passengers or gear in the pan of the truck.

Posted

Where did you find a half-ton with a 14-bolt? I've never heard of such a monster.

 

You could probably pull it off with 4.10's, but I wouldn't go much over 60-65 to keep your gas mileage somewhat sane.

Posted
Where did you find a half-ton with a 14-bolt? I've never heard of such a monster.

 

You could probably pull it off with 4.10's, but I wouldn't go much over 60-65 to keep your gas mileage somewhat sane.

 

 

 

 

In the late 90s, you could get what some people called a heavy half ton. It came with the 9.5" semi-floating 14bolt.

 

IMO, 4.10s would defianately help pulling 7500lbs, but if I was going to be pulling that much weight regularly or for long distances, I would be looking for 3/4 ton+.

Posted

It was, as I looked up, capable of 7500 lbs. with the 3.42 or the 3.73 gears. 8500 lbs. with the 4.10 gears. Thats why I was thinking of the jump to 4.10 instead of 3.73.

Yes, in that year, the long bed ext. cab was made with the light 3/4 ton drive with larger rear, u-joints, brakes, and leaf springs with a GVWR of 6600 lbs., not the typical 6200 lbs..

And finally, yes, I know about the rating and deducting all the extra weight. That's why I was thinking of the re-gearing to get that extra 1000 lbs. out of it.

Do you think the tranny will hold up to it, and does my computer need programming?

Just on a tight budget.

I am definately getting a 3/4 ton in 2-3 years. Just want this one to get me there.

Is gas that bad with 4.10's?

Thanks again!

Scott

Posted

Well I KNOW you'll take a big hit on the gas mileage. 4.10's ain't exactly known for gas mileage. My dad's 1-ton w/4.10's and a 5-speed (OD) and a TBI 454 only gets 10, 11 on a good day.

Posted

I'd be happy with 16-17. I really use the for the camper. I got a really good deal on it ($5K in spring this year) but didn't know it had 3.42's. If it gets me 2-3 years until I can get a 2500, I'm good. I tow the trailer 2000 miles a year and drive the truck normally another 3000 a year. I know it's a hit in gas, but with the miles I put on, I think 4.10's would be a wise choose.

Still anyone know about recalibrating?

Thanks for all your help!

Scott

Posted

Gears are great, but they will cost you. It looks like you have a 4x4, so if you re-gear, you are looking at $1000-$1400 depending on where you are.

 

You are towing only 2000 miles per year, and you are planing on trading up in 2-3 years. So, I would recommend putting in a big auxiliary trans cooler, a tans temp gauge and having a transgo shift kit installed. your looking at less then $600, maybe $250 if you can do it all yourself.

 

Then, take it easy, tow in 3 and you should be good. :shakehead:

 

Good luck!

 

Steve

 

 

uh... one more thing. Make sure that camper has good elevtric brakes! :devil:

Posted

Yeah, it's a 4x4 so I'm looking at 2 axles. I have already installed the tranny cooler. Saw a nice gauge for $50 but haven't gotten it yet. As for the shift kit, I'm not familiar with that. I have always done all my auto work, even rebuilding the engines, so I'm sure it would be something I could handle. Can you explain more about it and why this could be an option I didn't know about? And would this be a good option seeing I'm hauling a trailer and gear that would actually total more than my towing capacity by 750-1000 lbs. with my current 3.42 gears.

Thanks for the different angle !

Scott

Posted

Transgo makes a number of high quality shift kits. I have put them in every truck I own. I am not interested in hard, neck jerking shifts, so that's not why I install the kit. The kit is good insurance for your tranny, it firms up and quickens the shifts and gets rid of some of the long term problems these trannys run it to. The kits are fairly easy to install, and come with comprehensive instructions.

 

You can check out the Transgo web site HERE

 

 

I typically buy the kit from my local transmission shop, they set me up with the right kit and it runs about $100.

 

You can also find them all the time on eBay, here is one example: Transgo kit

 

I will put a transgo kit in every truck I own.

 

As for the gauge, I would recommend going with an Autometer gauge and plugging it right into your transmission test port. Easy 30 min. install that tells you EXACTLY what your transmission is doing. This cheap insurance is really a no-brainer in my opinion.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Steve

Posted
So it basically will change my shift points? I read that I will have to recalibrate. What's the procedure for that?

Thanks, Scott

 

 

 

 

It will not change your shift points, and you do not need to recalibrate after installing a transgo kit...

 

It basically makes your tranny more efficient, the shifts are quicker so you will have less slide=less wear on the bands.

 

Steve

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