My Big 'Project' and a Pop-up Camper AC units

Dux-n-Dawgs · December 17, 2006

A quick background of my 'Project'.

My Father-in-law gave me a camper shell for a short bed Chevy that was sitting collecting dust and tree pollin. My plan is to turn it into a Lab Trainer and Waterfowl Hunters Dream. I just finished painting it Mossy Oak Break-up camo to get rid of the clearcoat flaking burgandy paint that it was.

I've already got my Water Tank built and ready to install as soon as I get the suspended floor and drawers built. I also plan on installing twin 55watt flood lights out the back from the top of the shell and probably 55 watt lights (instead of LED's) for the interior. I will probably install a Power Inverter at some point in time (something strong enough to power a coffee maker or recharge my remote control throwers). Here's the biggie ....... I will also be installing a fan or Pop-up Camper AC unit.

Here's where my questions begin ....

1. What do I need to power a Pop-up Camper AC unit ???

2. Can I run it off the truck battery or should I install something like a 900cca Marine Deep Cycle battery for all my Camper Shell needs??? The truck will not be running most of the time while the AC System is on.

3. What size wire do I need as the Primary Feed as it goes into the fuse block I'll install in the Camper Shell???

4. Should I install a dual alternator set up or would a battery recharger (like on a boat) be best to recharge my 'stand alone battery' for the Camper Shell???

If the AC System idea falls through, I plan on useing Marine Bilge area Fans ....... that's what they use on most professionally built dog boxes and dog trailers. Thus in that case I know I'll install a second battery (in the bed probably) to run the fans and lights.

Any and all help is much appreciated since I know very little about electrical.

Shaners · December 17, 2006

I doubt seriously that you will be able to run an A/C unit off a power inverter. These units are powered by 110 and require alot of amps to fire the compressor. I would think you would need a 3000 watt generator to run even a small one...

Most newer travel trailers have what the call an "Attic Fan" which is generally located in the bathroom. They exhaust out of the trailer through a standard roof vent. They run on 12 volt power and move air very well... This may be your best bet for ventilation.

Dux-n-Dawgs · December 18, 2006

This is exactly the kind of information I'm looking for, so please do enlighten me b/c I really don't know and am only going of what others are telling me.

So the AC units (even the little small ones that are used on a Pop-up Camper are run off 110volts ???? How are they getting that kind of power to run them, only by camp site hook-up's ??? I know I'm not willing to go get a generator to make this work on my truck (primarily due to space limitations and the annoyance of sounding like a bug truck, LOL).

As far as fans are concerned, most Dog Trailer manufaturers use a Marine Bilge Area Fan due to the amount of air they move and how little power they use to run, especially for extended periods. I've considered Automotive Elec' Fans as well. Both would easily allow me to run 12 volt power.

Can't wait til Tuesday gets here ............ that's when I get to take them Glorified Street Tires off amd put my new set of BF Goodrich AT ko's on ....... happy days to soon be here, LOL ! ! ! !

pm26 · December 18, 2006

Yes, camp site hook ups. A nice size pop up A/C unit will be about a 13,000 BTU unit. Typically, small motorized RVs have a 4,000 Watt (4kW) generator, and most of that power is used to run the A/C unit when hook up power is not available.

Shaners · December 18, 2006

This one is pricey but there are alot of other otpions...

http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/produ...t=19&bestseller

Of course you would have to cut a hole in your cap...

CoastyAV8R · December 18, 2006

Those rooftop AC units aren't light and will over time crack your canopy shell unless you do some creative reinforcing. If you really want AC, your best bet is to buy a small generator, atleast 2500 kw and drag that around with you. You could also buy a window AC unit and drag that as well. A fan in the roof of the canopy would easier to do and can run off a car battery but I wouldn't run it off of your truck battery since you could kill it and then your stranded.

Dux-n-Dawgs · December 18, 2006

THANKS Ya'll ! ! !

I was initially planning on cutting a whole in the top to mount it ...... I really didn't care what it ended up looking like as far as a 'humpback' to it, LOL ! ! ! ! I probably would have camo'ed the white unit to make it match anyway.

Sounds like I need to forget the AC unit idea and resort back to fans. One of my dog training buddies says he has plans for a homemade ice box with a blower fan to push air over ice, duct work to direct the air and drains for the melted ice .......... looks like I need to check into that route.

THANKS AGAIN ! ! ! !

02Sub · December 18, 2006

I have done a lot of work with camers and their electrical systems. As correctly pointed out by the previous posting, a rooftop AC unit is very heavy(100-150lbs). Popup campers have a roof beam on both sides of the opening for the AC unit. One hard pothole hit could send the AC unit thru the shell roof.

When using inverters, they multiply the voltage by about 10 (12v converted to 120volts). Which means that the input amperage from the 12v side has to be multiplied by 10. Power in must equal power out. For example, the Coleman Polar Cub 9000 BTU rooftop unit draws 8 amps at 120v. You must supply 80amps from the 12v battery (8amps x 10). And that's assuming the inverter was perfect (*100% efficient). Since inverters usually run about 80-90% efficient that means you will probably end up drawing about 90-100 amps from the 12V battery. You'll only be able to run the AC unit for about 30-40 minutes from a standard deep-discharge battery - if you could start it. Starting current will probably be about 25-35 amps (even for the newer soft-start units), which means the 12V battery must supply 250-350 amps for a short time to start it. If the AC unit bogs down in startup mode, it will burn out the compressor.

There are a lot of roadblocks to installing an AC unit in a truck. A fan would be a much better idea. Or at least maybe an evapporative cooler, which would draw much less but I don't have a lot of experience with them.

Get a second battery tray and install the second battery under the hood with an isolator. This will keep it charged and won't draw down the starting battery.

Steve

davegee · December 18, 2006

It was mentioned to add a second battery to vehicle.....I have done this on my 99 and I used the box from GM which comes with camper special trucks or diesels.....it installs on the rhs by the firewall and works awsome...don't try to fab your own, the "General' has already done the work for you!

pm26 · December 19, 2006

If you really want AC, your best bet is to buy a small generator, atleast 2500 kw and drag that around with you.

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A small 2500kW generator? LMAO!!! You would need a Peterbilt tractor to haul that one around! It takes about 3,500 HP diesel locomotive size engine to drive that puppy.

(Sorry, could not resist. I know you meant 2500 Watt, or 2.5kW generator.)

02Sub · December 19, 2006

Davegee:

I did the same thing that you did. I bought the GM second battery tray that was a direct bolt-in in place of the support bracket that was there. In my Suburban, I had to remove the fender brace that went from the firewall to the fender.

The only minor glitch was finding a deep-cycle battery that would fit within the height limitations. There were plenty of ordinary batteries that fit, but deep-cycle batteries were taller. I ended up using an Optima yellow-top (deep-discharge), which fit.

Steve