Jump to content

where is rear blower motor on 2000 yukon?

steiny93

Recommended Posts

steiny93 Enthusiast

steiny93

Posted
Posted

silly question,

The blower motor was making funny noises when it has gotten very cold (-20 degrees) at startup.

It died this weekend,

I should have listened to where the blower was making the noise from prior to it quiting so now I'm curious as to its location before I start tearing into the plastic.

 

I'm assuming it is on one of the sides in the rear of the vehicle.

 

4wd 1500 with AC, 2000, 5.3 new style is the model

 

If anyone could let me know where the blower is located and a rough guess as to how big of a job it is to replace it that would be great.

Thanks

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
silly question,

The blower motor was making funny noises when it has gotten very cold (-20 degrees) at startup.

It died this weekend,

I should have listened to where the blower was making the noise from prior to it quiting so now I'm curious as to its location before I start tearing into the plastic.

 

I'm assuming it is on one of the sides in the rear of the vehicle.

 

4wd 1500 with AC, 2000, 5.3 new style is the model

 

If anyone could let me know where the blower is located and a rough guess as to how big of a job it is to replace it that would be great.

Thanks

 

Passenger side rear most panel contains all the rear heat/ac. Readily accessible once youpull the cover.

steiny93 Enthusiast

steiny93

Posted
  • Author
Posted

update:

Got to the blower motor right away.

Pulled out the motor and found that the squirrel cage was rubbing on the back plastic of the ducting.

Also found out that the motor isn't getting any power but you can hear the relay module making noise.

 

So...

Checked out the fuse and the 30 amp'r under the hood was fried.

Put in a new fuse and all is love except that the motor only has high and off. No low/medium.

 

So,

Planning on putting a multi meter on the leads going into the motor. My assumption is that the motor lost the first two modes (low/medium) during the last use and the multimeter will show voltage for the first two modes.

 

Thanks for the asssitance.

Loomis462 Enthusiast

Loomis462

Posted
Posted

again not to hijack this thread, but my rear heat only works when my engine is running above idle, >1000 rpm or so. 1999 suburban. Does this sound like a partially clogged rear heater core? the ac works in the rear like a charm.

concours Enthusiast

concours

Posted
Posted

The resister that cuts the voltage for the various speeds is wicked cheap and burns up. It's plug is protruding from the HVAC back there downstream from the blower. That failure is what took out your fuse.

 

The 'Burban with no heat at idle... there is a TSB on it... #01-01-38-005. It says to replace the Y-manifold on the front heater core with a new type with a bigger port.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...