Jump to content

clucking coming from rearend while tires spinning in snow

snorydermb

By snorydermb
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

snorydermb Enthusiast

snorydermb

Posted
Posted

lAST NIGHT while plowing my driveway in 2 wheel drive(lite snow) my rear wheels were spinning and I kept hearing clunking noise coming from the rearend it was like 1 wheel would spin and the other would grab hard and continue to clunk until the wheels stopped I have a 04 2500 HD 6.0 with 4.10 gears with a locker I called dealer and have a appointment fri but just wanted to know someones opinion.

 

mike

wgabert Enthusiast

wgabert

Posted
Posted

I have exactly the same noise in my 01 that I purchased about 3 months ago. It is nice and quiet except when one wheel spins. then starts to clunk. every time it does it locks up the stationary wheel for a moment and then lets go. I sure would like to hear from you after you get this figured out.

 

Warren

ewood01 Enthusiast

ewood01

Posted
Posted

Does it have a gov lock in it or is it a posi unit type? You can try putting a little extra limited slip additive in it. This may quite its engagement a little.

  • 4 weeks later...
06gmc Enthusiast

06gmc

Posted
Posted

mine does the exact same thing. it is really anoying and loud. my truck only has 8000 miles on it. i cant get it to do it in the rain. it happened once while pulling my boat out of the river.

 

this is normal?????????

Air Biscuit Enthusiast

Air Biscuit

Posted
Posted
mine does the exact same thing. it is really anoying and loud. my truck only has 8000 miles on it. i cant get it to do it in the rain. it happened once while pulling my boat out of the river.

 

this is normal?????????

 

Yes. Has nothing to do with mileage...That's just how it works. Sounds bad, works good.

Norseman Senior Enthusiast

Norseman

Posted
Posted
mine does the exact same thing. it is really anoying and loud. my truck only has 8000 miles on it. i cant get it to do it in the rain. it happened once while pulling my boat out of the river.

 

this is normal?????????

 

Yes. Has nothing to do with mileage...That's just how it works. Sounds bad, works good.

 

 

 

I guess I'll never understand people that complain about something that works as designed (infact has been working daamn good for me for over 160 thousand miles). You drive a REAL truck with a locking DIFF for petes sake!!! If ya really want to be anoyed get a truck with out a locking diff!!!!!

DirtyDave Enthusiast

DirtyDave

Posted
Posted

My friend's dad has an 04 Z71 and we "borrowed" it to go thrash it at the Mt Morris Mounds Off Road Park. We were quite surprised to find out how noisy the Eaton locking diff was. Clunk, clunk, clunk, just like you described. But it worked well and has never failed. As suggested above, some extra additive from your GM dealer may quiet it a bit.

 

I can tell you this, though. It is 100 times quieter than the Powertrax Lock-Right in my GMC. That thing clicks loudly in every parking lot situation you can imagine, causing people to look at you as though your truck may fall apart right there.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...