Jump to content

Serviced my 2500HD w/Duramax

JEBar

Recommended Posts

JEBar Enthusiast

JEBar

Posted
Posted

Have serviced my D'max 3 times...Wix oil filters cost $7-$8 & do a good job...Wix fuel filters about half what you paid above...Allison spin on trans filters (ordered from an Allison dealer) about 1/3 cost at dealership ... only concern from your post is weight of oil, isn't 15W40 the recommended weight? :0

MarkD Senior Enthusiast

MarkD

Posted
Posted

Although most "servicing" of our trucks is just to prevent failure, I am sure I am not alone in being able to tell a difference in how much better it runs afterwards.

 

(run-on sentence king)

csimo Enthusiast

csimo

Posted
Posted

Man did you make some mistakes!!!!

 

#1  The rear differential on the Duramax REQUIRES GL-5 Synthetic gear lube.  Jiffy Lube doesn't even sell it.  You have the wrong lube in the pumpkin.  BTW the factory fill synthetic lube looks dark and smells like grape juice.

 

#2  Unless you are way far north you have the wrong oil.  5w30 is ONLY to be used with the average ambient temp. is below 32 degrees farenheit.  The "year-round" oil for a Duramax is 15w40.  5w30 does not have the film strength for the Duramax.

 

#3  Pennzoil 5w30 full synthetic, (or blend either) do NOT carry the CH-4 rating that the Duramax requires.  Jiffy Lube normally stocks Shell Rotella 15w40 for diesels that has the CH-4 rating.

 

You'd better get that truck in and change to the right fluids!

csimo Enthusiast

csimo

Posted
Posted

I'm not trying to be a jerk, nor should I really care what you use in your truck, but you are misguided and I'm really trying to help you!

 

#1  The only full synthetic gear lube made by Pennzoil is "Gearplus® Super-EW 75W-90 and 80W-140" and neither meet GL-4 rating.  They are GL-5 rated.  Eaton (the manufacturer of your axle) says NOT to use GL-5 and is not approved.  Wrong lube.

 

#2   I have a '02 model and my diesel supplement is updated. Many 2001 diesel supplements were printed incorrectly, and specifically regarding which oil to use and what filter is correct.  10w30 is only for very cold weather, and straight weight oils are not approved.  You should read this GM TSB:

"00-06-01-025A SEP 01  Diesel Engine - Correct Oil Viscosity & Oil Filter Usage."

 

#3   No matter what the weight of the oil you used, Pennzoil full synthetic is NOT CH-4 rated.  It is not approved for your engine.

 

Again, do yourself a favor and get the right stuff.

csimo Enthusiast

csimo

Posted
Posted

Great that you changed the oil, now it's time to change the gear lube!  Let's be clear on this.  GL-5 gear lube is NOT an "upgrade" from GL-4.  GL-5 is a very corrosive material that will cause damage to you Eaton rear axle.  You axle requires GL-4 gear lube and Eaton tells us NOT to use GL-5.

 

You originally said you used Pennzoil, right?  Here is info. off of Pennzioil's web site about their GL-5 product:

 

"If an API GL-5 gear oil is used in a application where API GL-4 gear oil is called for, chemical corrosion of "yellow metal" components may occur, such as bronze synchronizers, brass bushings, etc. This may lead to shifting difficulties or shortened equipment life. "

 

This is availble at http://www.pennzoil.com/carcare/faq/default.htm if you want to read it yourself.

Import Hater Enthusiast

Import Hater

Posted
Posted

I'm not much a fan of Pennzoil lubricants period.  Ask alot of mechanics.  We hold the same opinion of it.

 

I don't even have a Duramax, but if I did, I would put in Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic.  It's the "Mobil 1" for diesels.

 

And I just gotta wonder about this...

 

The tech doing the work was a former Ryder Truck Mechanic, so he was not bungling around.

 

Why has a former fleet (i.e. more $$$) mechanic degraded themself down to working at Jiffy lube?  That just isn't computing...  I STARTED at a Speedee Oil Change place, but now that I'm at a dealership, I sure as #### am never going back to that kind of work!

 

Rob

csimo Enthusiast

csimo

Posted
Posted

saulsse,  first you say it was Pennzoil in the rear end:

The Full Synth Pennzoil does have a CH-4 Rating, at least the stuff I was reading on the bottles that they were putting in.
and then you changed your mind about the rating of the fluid being not GL-4 rated, but GL-5:
The diff fluid stays because it is the correct stuff as I checked and verified the lub requirements that the oil change place put in.

It is GL-5..

and now you've changed your mind that the fluid is not Pennzoil at all:
Also in regards to the Pennzoil.. it was not Pennzoil product that went into the rear anyway.

 

I feel sorry for whoever gets your truck when you sell it!

scratch1 New Member

scratch1

Posted
Posted
Have serviced my D'max 3 times...Wix fuel filters about half what you paid above...Allison spin on trans filters (ordered from an Allison dealer) about 1/3 cost at dealership ... only concern from your post is weight of oil, isn't 15W40 the recommended weight? :0

JEBar: you stated "Wix oil filters cost $7-$8 & do a good job..." check this site out; http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html

it has some eye openers......

The check this site;

http://syntheticoiltech.com/oil/dvezina/

 

You owe it to yourself to do the research....

david

 

:thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By newdude · Posted

      Engine failure requires radiator replacement per GM if it contains an engine oil cooler.  They do NOT want them flushed.  Radiator replacement is also required for the 6.2 recall if the engine fails.   Here is the TSB the dealer is referring to - 22-NA-074 1..2    Its a slightly older version, but the current version of it covers all model years 2000-2026.  So if enough failure debris was present, it gets an oil cooler.  If that is part of the radiator, it gets a radiator.  Also, same for oil cooler lines.  Those get replaced.     Now something like a 2.7 Turbo which uses an oil to water heat exchanger for the oil cooler, the radiator would be left alone but the oil cooler would be replaced, as well as any lines.  
    • txab
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By txab · Posted

      Doing the right thing, replacing both valves is the way to go. The valves with the ball leak far more often than the schrader. Never cared for them. The accumulator really should be replaced if the system has had no pressure in it and it was a keeper, but since you're looking to sell it, bet you can get by. Did you pull the orifice screen and see what was there?   Shame you can't get 134a. Hopefully the previous repairs included dye.   Some of the R4s I messed with developed leaks where the line sets connected or the front seal. Had one where the HPCO was leaking. Front seal would only leak under pressure. See any obvious oily spots?   I've got nitrogen I use to test pressure and to help dry the system prior to evacuation.   Keep up the good work
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Next time you're on a road trip to a state where you can still buy it stock up on 12oz cans, you might look into getting certified so you can buy it where you are as well. When they switched from R12 to R134a the test for certification was easy, they basically just wanted the $25
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...