Aoem-gm24 Install

AcetyleneDreams · June 24, 2007

Hi Everyone,

I have been trying to get my PAC 24 harness installed, and I cannot get the remote turn on for the amp right. The PAC 24 (AOEM-GM24) harness says to connet the remote wire to the, "pink wire from the factory harness in location B3." Well, I did that the first time. I spliced into the pink wire from the factory harness, BUT the pink wire is NOT in location B2. It's in B11. Now, after checking everything with a multimeter about 10 times, that pink wire I spliced into has 12+ volts to it ALWAYS. Key in, key on, radio off, radio on, etc. which says to me it's the power lead from the factory amp from the battery.

Now, see if this logic makes sense. The factory amp must have a remote on signal since it is an amp. You wouldn't want the amp to be on all the time, just when the radio is on. So, there has got to be a remote signal for the factory amp somewhere. I've checked both harnesses to the factory amp, and with the key in any position and with the radio on or off, it doesn't matter, I always get readings of 12.5 volts, 6.2 volts, or .03 volts. I get the 12.5 from the pink wire, 6.2 from most everything else in the harness, and .03 from two wires in location B1 and B2.

Any suggestions on where to find a remote wire? If I can't find a remote at the factory amp, where else can I splice to? The aftermarket amp install guide says if there is no remote I can use the, "vehicle accessory circuit." Any idea what that is?

PLEASE HELP!!

Thanks!

NVRENUF · June 24, 2007

I have been down this road before. The easiest thing you can do is run your turn-on wire up to the fuse box by the door and find a fuse that goes on and off with the key. With this configuration the amp won't work with the retained accesory power (rap) feature, but it is the easiest option that i found. Best of luck.

Hi Everyone,

I have been trying to get my PAC 24 harness installed, and I cannot get the remote turn on for the amp right. The PAC 24 (AOEM-GM24) harness says to connet the remote wire to the, "pink wire from the factory harness in location B3." Well, I did that the first time. I spliced into the pink wire from the factory harness, BUT the pink wire is NOT in location B2. It's in B11. Now, after checking everything with a multimeter about 10 times, that pink wire I spliced into has 12+ volts to it ALWAYS. Key in, key on, radio off, radio on, etc. which says to me it's the power lead from the factory amp from the battery.

Now, see if this logic makes sense. The factory amp must have a remote on signal since it is an amp. You wouldn't want the amp to be on all the time, just when the radio is on. So, there has got to be a remote signal for the factory amp somewhere. I've checked both harnesses to the factory amp, and with the key in any position and with the radio on or off, it doesn't matter, I always get readings of 12.5 volts, 6.2 volts, or .03 volts. I get the 12.5 from the pink wire, 6.2 from most everything else in the harness, and .03 from two wires in location B1 and B2.

Any suggestions on where to find a remote wire? If I can't find a remote at the factory amp, where else can I splice to? The aftermarket amp install guide says if there is no remote I can use the, "vehicle accessory circuit." Any idea what that is?

PLEASE HELP!!

Thanks!

AcetyleneDreams · June 25, 2007

Thanks NVRENUF. You know, it's interesting that PAC doesn't even have the part number AOEM-GM24 on their website. I can't find install instructions online, and I never got them when I received the harness. If you ask me, this is poorly done.

Anyone else have any suggestions? All are appreciated. Thanks!

lerbud · June 25, 2007

go to the fuse box. on the 03-04 trucks you could use the pink wire to tap into. on 05 and up you have to find something in the fuse box.

AcetyleneDreams · June 25, 2007

I was hoping that wasn't the case. Thanks for the advice lerbud06!

saltwater_addict · June 25, 2007

i have aftermarket everything, but when measing the voltage of my remote wire, i remember it being extremely low, like .11 or maybe even lower. i dont know if this helps you of not, but i distinctly remember thinking, dang thats it. maybe its the .03? just thought this might help, again this was all aftermarket stuff, never messed with the pac adapters etc

AcetyleneDreams · June 25, 2007

Thanks for the input saltwater_addict! I was thinking that one of those two wires could be the remote too, but they are a constant .03V no matter what do do with the radio or key.

I am thinking that today I'm going to call PAC audio and see if there was a memo that I missed. I am curious to know how this TR-4 trigger works since it would seem that I have no remote at the factory amp. I'll post later when I know how this turns out.

lerbud · June 25, 2007

i think the tr-4 is just a 5 prong relay. i tried a relay on the system and used the .3v wire for the trigger. the only problem is they always have .3v so your amp never shuts off. i finally gave up and ran a wire to the fuse box. it takes a while but you get used to the amp cutting off when you turn off your truck instead of when you open the doors.

AcetyleneDreams · June 26, 2007

Hi Everyone.

Well, I figured it out. Let me rephrase that...I deciphered the direstions from PAC. It IS the wire in location B3 of the factory harness, but it is NOT the pink wire. Mine is black, but here's the deal...

When you have the doors open, it has 6V. After you close the doors and wait about 40 seconds, it goes to 0V. So, it's the right wire. You just can't sit in the truck w/o the engine running and listen to music though because it will drain the battery. So make a note to yourself if you do this install.

Check the wire in B3 regardless of color. It's your best bet. But remember to ckeck it before you cut anything. Otherwise you'll be reconnecting more wires than just the one.

Thanks everyone for all you input. The Infinity system is amazing, and I'll post tons of pics and my install giude very soon. PM or email me if you would like a copy.