Jump to content

Mirror Question


Storm Grey

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone know how to get the part number for the passengers side mirror (glass only) on my 2004 duramax? It is the standard looking mirror(not the tall one). It has the accordian looking boot that extends out. I am hoping I can order a new one from gmpartsdirect.com and need the part number. The mirror does have the turn signal in it but it does not appear to be heated. Any help would be great!

Posted

Is that part easy to install? Is it just the glass and the back plate? Is there any special tools required to install?

Is there any way to be sure that is the correct part?

 

The truck is a 2004 2500HD LS Duramax. Would the VIN help at all?

Posted

Along the same lines, how does the autodimming drivers side mirror work? Mine now has "dual" images (like one was seeing things) at night so something is broken. This is a 2002 Sierra Denali. The mirror has the parking light down at the bottom... How do you replace just the mirror? Or do I have to replace the whole thing? Any special tools required?

 

Also, I put a new alternator in and while it is clearly charging there is a flashing red battery symbol on the message center. I hooked up the actron code scanner and no code. Batt indicator has not gone away even after 20 or so starts... Any ideas?

 

Thx

Posted
Along the same lines, how does the autodimming drivers side mirror work? Mine now has "dual" images (like one was seeing things) at night so something is broken. This is a 2002 Sierra Denali. The mirror has the parking light down at the bottom... How do you replace just the mirror? Or do I have to replace the whole thing? Any special tools required?

 

Also, I put a new alternator in and while it is clearly charging there is a flashing red battery symbol on the message center. I hooked up the actron code scanner and no code. Batt indicator has not gone away even after 20 or so starts... Any ideas?

 

Thx

 

 

How the auto mirror dim works.

 

Mirrors -- Outside Automatic Day/Night Feature

 

The automatic day/night feature of the driver outside rearview mirror is controlled by the inside rearview mirror. The inside rearview mirror supplies a signal and a low reference to the driver outside rearview mirror. The voltage on the signal circuit of the driver outside rearview mirror varies between 0.5 to 1.5 volts depending on light conditions present at the inside rearview mirror. At night, with the automatic day-night feature enabled, the driver outside rearview mirror will automatically darken with the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from the headlamps from behind. The voltage on the signal circuit of the driver outside rearview mirror will be near 1.5 volts. In the daytime, the mirrors are in a normal state. The voltage on the signal circuit of the driver outside rearview mirror may be less than or near 0.5 volts. Refer to Inside Rearview Mirror Description and Operation in Stationary Windows for further description and operation of the inside rearview mirror.

 

Removal

 

1. Adjust mirror face as shown in picture to obtain access to mirror face retention clips (1).

2. Position a flat-bladed tool between back side of mirror face and the adjuster mechanism as shown in picture.

3. With a twisting motion of the flat bladed tool, separate the mirror face from the adjuster mechanism by releasing the mirror face retention clips (1).

4. With mirror face in hand, disconnect the electrical connectors.

5. Remove the mirror face from the mirror housing.

6. Inspect the adjuster mechanism for damage.

 

Install

 

1. Inspect the components for any damage. Ensure that the mirror face has all the retention clips in place.

2. Plug in the electrical connectors to the back of the mirror.

3. Align the mirror face retention clips with the adjuster mechanism.

4. Gently press the mirror back into the adjuster mechanism with the palm of the hand on the center of the glass until it locks into place.

5. Inspect the operation of the mirror.

 

Far as the Battery Light coming on...Is the battery installed in your truck say AC Delco on top with a black sticker.

Posted

Thanx for the quick response - does the "dual" image problem ring a bell? At first I thought my eyes were going, but it's there in the daylight and at night. I had thought that perhaps there was some sort of dimming fluid that leaked out. So this can be checked/replaced w/o having to remove the whole thing from the door - did I read that right?

 

On the alt issue, the factory battery went about a year ago and I replaced it with an Exide. It's a weird problem - I would have thought the computer would "see" everything is OK and reset.

 

Thx

 

Andy

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...