6.0 L V8 Knock Sensor Issue

[wyomingbob]

Hello All,

 

 

I have an '03 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 and 416,280 miles. The check engine light came on and revealed code 0332. I read the code reader book which tells me: "Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2." Can anyone help decipher what this code means? Also, where is the knock sensor located if it needs to be replaced? Thank you in advance.

 

WyoBob

[Norseman]

Hello All,

 

 

I have an '03 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 and 416,280 miles. The check engine light came on and revealed code 0332. I read the code reader book which tells me: "Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2." Can anyone help decipher what this code means? Also, where is the knock sensor located if it needs to be replaced? Thank you in advance.

 

WyoBob

 

Send me an e-mail and I'll send ya the TSB.

[Krambo]

IMHO, you need a new knock sensor. They are located under the intake manifold in the lifter valley. Sensor "2" is the sensor at the rear of the engine (nearest the transmission). When water gets under your intake, it kind of finds its way to the knock sensor valley and sits in there and corrodes them out. The boot that is supposed to seal out moisture is crap. I actually glued mine down with superglue when I had the intake off.

[fourwheelinfool]

What Krambo said.

 

But you gotta stop driving it to service it...

[wyomingbob]

Thank you for the advice. I'll need to locate a sensor before I tear into it. How many sensors do I have? The code reader claimed: Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2. Krambo tells me that "Sensor 2" is the rear sensor. What does "Bank 2" mean? Thanks again.

 

WyomingBob

[pwall]

Hello All,

 

 

I have an '03 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 and 416,280 miles. The check engine light came on and revealed code 0332. I read the code reader book which tells me: "Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2." Can anyone help decipher what this code means? Also, where is the knock sensor located if it needs to be replaced? Thank you in advance.

 

WyoBob

Not to hi-jake your thread, but over 400,000 miles! That's awesome! I have 100,000 miles on my 2002 and thought that was high and I'm concerned how much longer it will run.

[Wingnut]

It's not a bad job to replace it, and the TSB tells you to build a little wall around it with silicone when you replace it.

 

The whole job took me all day, but I could have done it in half the time if it weren't for a girlfriend that needed some attention.

 

Oh who am I kidding...It took that long because of beer.

[Krambo]

Thank you for the advice. I'll need to locate a sensor before I tear into it. How many sensors do I have? The code reader claimed: Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2. Krambo tells me that "Sensor 2" is the rear sensor. What does "Bank 2" mean? Thanks again.

 

WyomingBob

 

Good luck with your install and congrats on the mileage! To answer your questions,... you have 2 sensors (bank 1 and bank 2 respectively). The bank one sensor is at the front of the engine and the bank 2 sensor is at the rear of the engine. When you take the intake off, it will be obvious. There will be 2, 3inch boots with wires coming from the center. I am willing to bet that the rear sensor will be corroded and water traced.

 

Bank 1 typically means driver's side and bank 2 typically means passenger side. This is "typically" because the K-sensors are not sid by side, rather one in the front and the other in the rear. For your O2 sensors, Bank one sensor one is your primary O2 sensor (closest to the engine) on the driver's side and bank 1 sensor 2 is your post cat sensor on the driver's side. The same goes for Bank 2 (passenger side). To make things more confusing, there are provisions in your PCM for sensor 3's on both bank 1 and bank 2 but you will never see that.

 

If you want to make sure that you deffinately have a sensor issue and not a bad wire or plug, you can trace the wires that come from the back of your engine from under the intake (k-sensor wires) and switch them. The code should follow the bad sensor (i.e. the code should now read Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input Bank 1). This is a good check however, I would bet 99 times out of 100 that you have a bad sensor and skip this.

 

Oh, When reinstalling your intake, take caution not to pinch your k-sensor wires between the intake and the heads or you will be taking it all back off again.

 

BTW, this is killing your performance. Your PCM is seeing this as max KR (knock retard) and pulling as much spark advance as the PCM will allow (typically 8* on a stock flash). You may even be operating on your low octane table 100% in your tune causing big power losses. Get this fixed and enjoy a better performing engine.

 

This pic should help. I wouldn't use as much sealant as this guy did though

 

[wyomingbob]

Thank you all for the great information! The picture and the TSB email really helped. The CEL lit when I was on a road trip from Texas back to Wyoming. I didn't notice a loss of power after the CEL came on. Is it possible that the computer slowly retarded the spark as the sensor deteriorated -- so slowly that I didn't notice the change? Then one day the computer finally recognized the failure? The sensor is cheap....I just need to find the time it install it. I'll try to save time by leaving the beer in the cooler!

 

WyoBob

[Johnny_J_08]

i need some help on how to replace mine..

 

 

my light just came on. 3 days ago. and auto zone ran a check engine light thing. and they said is a knock sensor p0332

so is this hard to do ? the part cost 40.00 bucks im cool with that..

 

any help please

[Norseman]

i need some help on how to replace mine..

 

 

my light just came on. 3 days ago. and auto zone ran a check engine light thing. and they said is a knock sensor p0332

so is this hard to do ? the part cost 40.00 bucks im cool with that..

 

any help please

 

No, it's an easy job. I'd go ahead and change both sensors while you are in there.

 

4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Engines

To Remove:

 

NOTE: The intake manifold, throttle body, fuel injection rail, and fuel injectors may be removed as an assembly. If not servicing the individual components, remove the manifold as a complete assembly.

 

Remove or disconnect the following:

PCV hose and valve

MAP sensor, if required

EGR valve

Knock sensor harness electrical connector from intake and set harness aside

EGR pipe bolts from intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head

Vacuum brake booster hose from rear of intake manifold

Engine coolant air bleed clamp and hose from the throttle body (not necessary of you just unbolt the TB and just let hang out of the way)

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if required

 

Throttle body and gasket (I just unbolted it and let it hang out of the way)

 

 

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator

Intake manifold bolts

Intake manifold with gaskets

Intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets from the manifold and discard the intake manifold gaskets

Fuel rail with injectors

 

 

 

Throttle body and gasket

Clean the intake manifold in solvent

Dry the intake manifold with compressed air

Inspect the throttle body studs and stud inserts for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the wire harness stud and stud insert for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the fuel rail bolt inserts for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the intake manifold vacuum passages for debris or restrictions

Inspect for damaged or broken vacuum fittings, damaged MAP sensor mounting bore, or broken MAP sensor retaining tabs

Inspect the composite intake manifold assembly for cracks or other damage

Inspect the areas between the intake runners. Inspect all the gasket sealing surfaces for damage

Inspect the fuel injector bores for excessive scoring or damage

Inspect the intake manifold cylinder head deck for warpage

Locate a straight edge across the intake manifold cylinder head deck surface

Position the straight edge across a minimum of two runner port openings

Insert a feeler gauge between the intake manifold and the straight edge

NOTE: An intake manifold with warpage in excess of 0.118 in. (3 mm) over a 7.87 in. (200 mm) area is warped and should be replaced.

 

To Install:

 

NOTE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install or connect the following:

MAP sensor

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator and tighten the EVAP solenoid bolt; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

New intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets

Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) band of a threadlocking compound to the threads of the intake manifold bolts and install the intake manifold

Intake manifold bolts and tighten intake manifold bolts as follows:

First pass in sequence; Torque to: 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm)

Tighten intake manifold bolts on second pass in sequence; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

 

Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence- 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L

 

8 . 9

5 . 3

1 . 2

4 . 6

10 . 7

 

 

 

 

PCV valve and hose

Engine coolant air bleed hose and clamp onto the throttle body

EGR valve

Knock sensor harness electrical connector to intake

EGR pipe bolts to intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-intake manifold bolts; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-cylinder head bolts; Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts; Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)

Vacuum brake booster hose to rear of intake manifold

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if applicable and tighten the accelerator control cable bracket bolts; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

[Johnny_J_08]

i need some help on how to replace mine..

 

 

my light just came on. 3 days ago. and auto zone ran a check engine light thing. and they said is a knock sensor p0332

so is this hard to do ? the part cost 40.00 bucks im cool with that..

 

any help please

 

No, it's an easy job. I'd go ahead and change both sensors while you are in there.

 

4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Engines

To Remove:

 

NOTE: The intake manifold, throttle body, fuel injection rail, and fuel injectors may be removed as an assembly. If not servicing the individual components, remove the manifold as a complete assembly.

 

Remove or disconnect the following:

PCV hose and valve

MAP sensor, if required

EGR valve

Knock sensor harness electrical connector from intake and set harness aside

EGR pipe bolts from intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head

Vacuum brake booster hose from rear of intake manifold

Engine coolant air bleed clamp and hose from the throttle body (not necessary of you just unbolt the TB and just let hang out of the way)

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if required

 

Throttle body and gasket (I just unbolted it and let it hang out of the way)

 

 

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator

Intake manifold bolts

Intake manifold with gaskets

Intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets from the manifold and discard the intake manifold gaskets

Fuel rail with injectors

 

 

 

Throttle body and gasket

Clean the intake manifold in solvent

Dry the intake manifold with compressed air

Inspect the throttle body studs and stud inserts for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the wire harness stud and stud insert for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the fuel rail bolt inserts for looseness or damaged threads

Inspect the intake manifold vacuum passages for debris or restrictions

Inspect for damaged or broken vacuum fittings, damaged MAP sensor mounting bore, or broken MAP sensor retaining tabs

Inspect the composite intake manifold assembly for cracks or other damage

Inspect the areas between the intake runners. Inspect all the gasket sealing surfaces for damage

Inspect the fuel injector bores for excessive scoring or damage

Inspect the intake manifold cylinder head deck for warpage

Locate a straight edge across the intake manifold cylinder head deck surface

Position the straight edge across a minimum of two runner port openings

Insert a feeler gauge between the intake manifold and the straight edge

NOTE: An intake manifold with warpage in excess of 0.118 in. (3 mm) over a 7.87 in. (200 mm) area is warped and should be replaced.

 

To Install:

 

NOTE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install or connect the following:

MAP sensor

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator and tighten the EVAP solenoid bolt; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

New intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets

Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) band of a threadlocking compound to the threads of the intake manifold bolts and install the intake manifold

Intake manifold bolts and tighten intake manifold bolts as follows:

First pass in sequence; Torque to: 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm)

Tighten intake manifold bolts on second pass in sequence; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

 

Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence- 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L

 

8 . 9

5 . 3

1 . 2

4 . 6

10 . 7

 

 

 

 

PCV valve and hose

Engine coolant air bleed hose and clamp onto the throttle body

EGR valve

Knock sensor harness electrical connector to intake

EGR pipe bolts to intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-intake manifold bolts; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-cylinder head bolts; Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Tighten the EGR pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts; Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)

Vacuum brake booster hose to rear of intake manifold

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if applicable and tighten the accelerator control cable bracket bolts; Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

 

 

 

 

 

is their like a picture step by step ? this will be my 1st job i do on my truck or any truck..

 

i usally pay. but right now i am on a budged and cant afford it.. to be honest. the part is cheap so ic an buy them both..

[Norseman]

Ok this is the best I can do. Hope this helps.

Knock_Sensor_replacement.pdf

Knock_Sensor_replacement.pdf

Knock_Sensor_replacement.pdf

Knock_Sensor_replacement.pdf

[Johnny_J_08]

Ok this is the best I can do. Hope this helps.

 

okay thanks.. so if i follow this i can fix it.. right i ma give it a try tomorrow.. well today lol in the morning...

 

how do i know which sensor is is ? my thing say p0332

[Norseman]

Ok this is the best I can do. Hope this helps.

 

Just replace them both. You might as well while you have the intake off.