Jump to content

Chrome Rim Storage Advice


Recommended Posts

Posted

I searched some and found a lot but what my question is. So, does anyone have advice on putting something on some chrome GM rims just for storage over the winter. I use WD-40 for tools and such so the don't rust or corrode but what is best for the rims. I am going to give them a good cleaning (front and back) and put them up for the winter. I am hoping there will be minumal clean-up come spring time. I know they won't stay perfect, just want to do what I can.

 

I have also heard waxing them but how will that work on the back side :D . And waxing lug nuts seem a little crazy but I spent the time cleaning them last night.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Lance

Posted
I searched some and found a lot but what my question is. So, does anyone have advice on putting something on some chrome GM rims just for storage over the winter. I use WD-40 for tools and such so the don't rust or corrode but what is best for the rims. I am going to give them a good cleaning (front and back) and put them up for the winter. I am hoping there will be minumal clean-up come spring time. I know they won't stay perfect, just want to do what I can.

 

I have also heard waxing them but how will that work on the back side :D . And waxing lug nuts seem a little crazy but I spent the time cleaning them last night.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Lance

 

back in the 80's when i would put a set of wheels or hubcaps ... or old trim off of one of my cars up for storage ... i would either smear motor oil on it and put saran wrap around it .. or for the more odd shaped parts (rims and hubcaps) .. i would put vasoline on them ... and then put them up ...

 

after about a year it will harden up and crystalize ... and can just be brushed off ... but if left alone ...it should protect the finish ..

 

but if they are chrome rims that dont have any blemish spots .. just a good cleaning and even a spray detail wax on them .. just make sure it isn't in a real humid place .. and they should be good to go ...

Posted

after a good cleaning, put a light coat of wax (both sides) and spray your nuts with wd 40 :D . I assume they will be stored inside. JFI/ spray foam glass cleaner is a good cleaner for the chrome wheels too.

Posted

You said nuts.. :D . I will WD-40 them, lug nuts that is... Will the WD-40 clean up pretty easily in a few month?

 

Any suggestions on the spray wax? That would be the easiest but I have never bought any.

 

Lastly, is wax spraying the stock 18" aluminum wheels a good idea when they get put up in the spring?

Posted
and spray your nuts with wd 40

 

I understand this procedure attracts a "different" kind of woman.

Posted

let me clarify/ regaulaer hand wax front and back. Spray the wd 40. Not that srpay wax is bad just not nessasray. Wd 40 will wipe right off with a rag and the Vasaline could be used in it s place if that works better for you. I would do the same thing to the aluminum wheels when you put them up. They will outlast you owning the truck anyway.(if you are like me)

Posted

put them up clean and dry ...

 

the rest is just a little extra insurance ...

 

for an aluminum rim .. esp the stock ones .. normally they are clearcoated ... so mostly just wax or vasoline .. (i prefer it to wd-40 because it doesn't drip off of what ya put it on) ..

 

the detail spray wax isn't as durable a coating .. when exposed to the elements ... but it still serves its purpose if they are just sitting up in a storage building or in a closet ...

 

thats an idea .. can always clean em up .. and bring them inside .. and get some cut glass tops to put on top of each one and make end tables out of them ...

Posted

Hopefully, put up in an attic/rafters above my garge. Have to get them up the drop stairs. The closet.... That you can take up with the better half. In my recent single days (6 yrs ago), I had some racing tires in a spare bedroom. Was a good idea to me. But apparently that did not attract the ladies. When we had the room carpeted, I was "told" the old carpetand room smelled like tires.

 

So pretty good chance they will stay out of the house. But don't get me wrong, I like the way your thinking. Just not interested in divorce at this stage of the game. Thanks guys for the advice. Now just the manual labor part.

 

Lance

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...