Ignition Switch Problem

alcolee · January 29, 2008

I'm not sure if I know all the proper terminology for what I'm talking about, but I'll be as descriptive as I can. My friend has an '01 ext-cab Silverado. On occasion the truck would not crank, the battery was fine, and all the interior lights and guages would come one, but when you turned the key, nothing. We were advised by a couple different mechanics to replace the electronic ignition switch - the one residing inside the steering column that mounts to what appears to be the bottom of the key cylinder. We followed the directions in the service manual to remove the old one, and then replaced it with a new one. We have the switch in the correct position, and as best we can tell, followed all the proper steps, however we still have a problem. When you try to turn the key, you get the first to key positions, and then the key stops. It will go into that final position of rolling forward to actually start the truck. It will go just a hair past the second position, but then it hit a brick wall. I don't know if this means anything, but the truck also flashes security when the key is off???? What are we missing? Is there something we have to reset in order to allow the key to function properly? Please help us out, we are beyond frustrated at this point. Are next step will be to try and push or winch this big truck onto a trailer and tow it to a mechanic. Thanks for the help.

alcolee · January 29, 2008

no body has any ideas???? This truck is sitting dead in my driveway right now and the dude is bumming rides until we figure this out. On one of the other ignition discussions, someone said something about there being a resistor swith in the wiring harness that had to be reprogramed by the dealer if it was changed. Is there any truth to this? Please help us out.

Cadha13 · January 29, 2008

I think there is a bind or a misalignment of the ignition switch rod. The original problem might have been something in the starter crank circuit. The same thing happened to my dad's 78 GMC. The purple starter wire got loose of the S terminal of the starter and did the same thing you did was replace the ignition switch but it was a loose starter crank wire. I would check the park/neutral switch or clutch safety switch for proper operation. Gm did not change that circuit from the 1978 to 2005 trucks. Even the same color wiring. Also there is no computer involved with ANY of the crank circuit. Just the fuel pump anti theft PASSLOCK.

alcolee · January 29, 2008

I guess it's possible, but I wouldn't start in the morning and we moved the tilt steering column and it started right up. That's why we're pretty sure it was something electrical inside the steering column. Also, even if it was a loose wire on the starter, that wouldn't explain why the key wouldn't turn past the second position. Thanks for the reply though.

gmtech4 · January 30, 2008

I guess it's possible, but I wouldn't start in the morning and we moved the tilt steering column and it started right up. That's why we're pretty sure it was something electrical inside the steering column. Also, even if it was a loose wire on the starter, that wouldn't explain why the key wouldn't turn past the second position. Thanks for the reply though.

you may have a security code and should not take it to a mechanic,take it to a technician at a dealer and let them fix your mistake,how much money have you guys saved ,no more backyard fixes boys ,sorry.

Cadha13 · January 30, 2008

It is bind in the rod that moves the ignition switch and the movement of the tilt confirms that. There is only two wires that go the a lock cylinder for the PASSLOCK and everything else is controlled by the rod that moves the slider in the ignition switch.

Yeah no more easy fixes. Need to tear into the column to find the bind or electrical problem.

minibike132 · January 30, 2008

It is bind in the rod that moves the ignition switch and the movement of the tilt confirms that. There is only two wires that go the a lock cylinder for the PASSLOCK and everything else is controlled by the rod that moves the slider in the ignition switch.
Yeah no more easy fixes. Need to tear into the column to find the bind or electrical problem.

There is no rod. The switch is a tooth off.

alcolee · February 1, 2008

ok, the truck is back together and running and starting like normal, no programming, no code issues. The fix was actually very simple. Once we got the electrical switch in the correct position, it was just a matter of putting the key cylinder back in the correct position. Once we put the cylinder in, we twisted it back just a fraction of an inch before locking it into position and everything worked perfectly. And to answer your question, yes we saved quit a bit of money doing this ourselves, and had we known the last step of positioning the key cylinder properly, we probably could have replaced this switch in a couple hours or less. Thanks for the help though.

minibike132 · February 1, 2008

ok, the truck is back together and running and starting like normal, no programming, no code issues. The fix was actually very simple. Once we got the electrical switch in the correct position, it was just a matter of putting the key cylinder back in the correct position. Once we put the cylinder in, we twisted it back just a fraction of an inch before locking it into position and everything worked perfectly. And to answer your question, yes we saved quit a bit of money doing this ourselves, and had we known the last step of positioning the key cylinder properly, we probably could have replaced this switch in a couple hours or less. Thanks for the help though.

That's what I said you were a tooth off.