Jump to content

So Heres A Weird Problem...


Recommended Posts

Posted

So crazy as it sounds I'm wondering if I got a peice of glass with a major flaw in it, this would be the passanger side Extended Cab window.

Story:

 

I got in my truck after work today and merged onto the freeway, about half way home (30 mile commute) I heard a popping noise, preatty loud. I looked all over, as much as I could without hitting the traffic in front of me, did'nt see anything and kept on driving. I make it all the way to my house, get out, shut the door and walk just around the corner to the walkway to my front door and the entire window shatters. I'm talking full on, not just a crack, spider web and pieces falling all over the inside and ground outside my truck. The shards of glass scratched my paint and made a huge mess on the inside. I called the dealer and they said no dice, that a rock or something must have hit it and cracked it.

 

So now I get to buy the 250$!! extended cab window and drive around with a trash bag taped to the door of my truck, fantastic... has anyone ever heard of anything like this, should I be making more of a stink at the dealership?

Posted

15 years in the buisness and never saw a glass spontaniously shatter. Thats not to say it can't happen (I can't explain how it would without outside influence) but your going to have an uphill battle on the nothing made it shatter explanation. It could be a flaw with the vehicle caused it, something out of place hit it or .... I don't know. I think your going to end up paying for this one unless you can find a reason it might have happened.

Posted
The rock theory is legit.

 

 

I agree, I just never heard it happen, or saw it even... My girlfriend is instintant that someone shot it with a BB gun, I think she's out of her mind.

 

It makes no sense I tell you! :lol:

Posted
The rock theory is legit.

 

 

I agree, I just never heard it happen, or saw it even... My girlfriend is instintant that someone shot it with a BB gun, I think she's out of her mind.

 

It makes no sense I tell you! :lol:

 

 

Thats possible to, done that on junk cars just cracks it and shatters it to pieces what ever it was it was not god.

Posted

Do you have glass coverage? In any case, that's very odd. I'd cruise around to the other GM forums and see if anyone else with a GMT900 has experienced something similar. If you can find a few other people with the same problem you may be on to something. Honestly though, you're probably SOL.

Posted

actually that could be a GM problem...let me find the TSB that addressed that problem.....

Posted

There was a problem with the Cadillac Line up of the SRX and the sedans where there was too much stress causing the window shattering.

Posted
There was a problem with the Cadillac Line up of the SRX and the sedans where there was too much stress causing the window shattering.

 

 

If this helps....

 

The rear window shatters on the "STS".

The UltraView Sunroof shatters on the SRX.

 

Jim from Texas

Posted

I don't know how similar the various tempered glass applications are, but I had the glass oven door in my kitchen spontaneously explode one day. It had not been in use for at least a day. Blew little glass cubes all over the kitchen. Never figured out why. :lol:

Posted
I don't know how similar the various tempered glass applications are, but I had the glass oven door in my kitchen spontaneously explode one day. It had not been in use for at least a day. Blew little glass cubes all over the kitchen. Never figured out why. :lol:

 

 

You had bad Karma that day! Or maybe one pissed off spirit or ghost trying to get your attention. :) I think I would of had to relocate from there........

Posted

Maybe the "pop" sound was a rock hitting the glass. That's why the dealer is saying that. I have had someone shoot the backglass on my firebird and all it did was shatter it but it never fell in. I feel for ya man! I would be raising hell as much as I could until I got my way or someone told me to get out of their office lol.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...