Jump to content

Hood Adjustment

duscarter

Recommended Posts

duscarter Enthusiast

duscarter

Posted
Posted

I bought my 2000 Denali used, and it seems the hood is out of adjustment. It was not noticable until I hit high speeds. Air gets under it and causes it to "bounce".

 

Is there a tip to get the adjustment correct?

 

Thanks

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

Here is some info that may help:

 

 

 

gmLogoFlat.gif

 

 

Service Information

2000 GMC Truck Yukon Denali | Escalade, Pickup (Classic), Tahoe (Classic), Yukon Denali (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 751213 #00-08-63-007: Hood Flutter or Vibration (Add Sealing Material) - (Sep 27, 2000)

999999995.gif
Subject:Hood Flutter or Vibration (Add Sealing Material)

 

 

Models:1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade

 

 



1999-2000 GMC Yukon Denali

 

 

Condition

Some customers may comment that the hood sheet metal flutters or vibrates when driving at various speeds.

 

Cause

Additional sealing material is required between the hood inner and outer panels.

 

Correction

Before applying additional sealing material, verify that the hood latch and the two rubber outboard stops are adjusted properly. If these are adjusted properly or, if after adjusting, the flutter or vibration still exists, apply additional sealing material using the following procedure.

 

 

  1. Open the hood.
  2. Remove the hood insulation pad.
    739846.gif
    tif.gif
  3. Apply gumdrop size amounts of 3M® Ultrapro™ Urethane Seam Sealer, # 8360 (white) or # 8361 (gray), or equivalent between the hood inner and outer panels at the locations shown (1).
  4. Apply gumdrop size amounts of sealer into the three openings in the hood inner panel (2).
  5. Reinstall the hood insulation pad.Important: Do not drive the vehicle with the hood open or only on the secondary latch as described in the next step.
     
  6. Allow the sealer to cure for two hours with the hood open or latched only on the secondary latch.

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

 

Description

 

Labor Time

 

B1530

 

Insulator, Hood - Replace

 

0.3 hr

 

Add

 

For applying additional sealer between the inner and outer hood panels

 

0.1 hr

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

 

 

999999994.gif WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
saxdogg Enthusiast

saxdogg

Posted
Posted

M.,

 

Is there anything like this for the nbs trucks? I notice my food flutter in high winds....not really a big deal, but annoying and cheap looking.

 

JP

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

nothing really coming up with the hood search key in the GMT900 series, but I swear I thought I saw one a long time ago...

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted
thanks for the info

There was a TSB out on the 07 Sierra for hood "flapping" at highway speed that was fixed by using some kind of bonding between the skin and inner supports. Not sure if it is for the 08s as well.

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

That is more or less of what I remember reading, but I cannot find it on DealerWorld

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

Much credit to Z, the key word is flap/rattle, not flutter (at least in dealerworld), here is some more info:

 

gmLogoFlat.gif

 

 

Service Information

2007 Chevrolet Silverado - 2WD | Sierra, Silverado (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 2000969 #PIT4469: Rattle Type Noise From Hood Or Instument Panel Area - keywords bump cowl dash hinge hood hvac instrument ip ipc itch noise pad panel pop rattle turn twist - (Jul 31, 2007)

999999995.gif
Subject:Rattle Type Noise From Hood Or Instrument Panel Area

 

 

Models:2007-2008 Chevrolet Silverado

 

 



2007-2008 GMC Sierra

 

 

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Some customers may comment of a rattle type noise from the instrument panel or hood/cowl area. This concern could be caused by a lack of lube at the hood hinge area, as shown below.

 

 

2000923.gif

tif.gif

Recommendation/Instructions:

To repair this concern lube the hood hinge with white lithium grease.

 

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

 

 

999999994.gif WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

gmLogoFlat.gif

 

Service Information

2007 Chevrolet Silverado - 2WD | Sierra, Silverado (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 1879361 #PIT4224: Rattle From Front Of Dash - keywords bump click cowl hood ip ipc suspension steer under upper - (Dec 20, 2006)

999999995.gif
Subject:Rattle From Front Of Dash

 

 

Models:2007 Chevrolet Silverado

 

 



2007 GMC Sierra

 

 

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Some owners may comment on a rattle from the dash area. This rattle could be caused by the engine cover contacting the front of dash/cowl area. The engine cover is retained at the rear by two "C" style retainers. An engine harness that is not properly seated in its U-channel (shown below) can obstruct the engine cover from going into its "C" retainers. This will push the rear of the engine cover up and contact the front of dash/cowl area (shown below).

 

 

1879358.gif

tif.gif

 

1879359.gif

tif.gif

Recommendation/Instructions:

To correct this concern fully seat the engine harness into the U-channel (shown below) and reinstall the engine cover making sure it is retained properly in the "C" retainer.

 

 

1879360.gif

tif.gif

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

 

 

999999994.gif WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
  • 3 weeks later...
duscarter Enthusiast

duscarter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the great info M. ! I forgot that I posted until today. Been spending most of my time on boat forums getting ready for the season. I will try to do it myself this weekend.

WSLN 6 New Member

WSLN 6

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the great info M. ! I forgot that I posted until today. Been spending most of my time on boat forums getting ready for the season. I will try to do it myself this weekend.

 

Wow great info! Is there anything like this for a 2003 Escalade? The corners of my hood "flap" up and down while driving. Thanks!

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

I think that it is the same thing, mine 'flaps', 'flutters' at the corners (maybe something to do with the aftermarket bug shield, but it is only noticeable in certain light, I will look though

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted

just double checked for the Escalade, but there is nothing (unless I am using the incorrect keywords again), but I used everyone that is on this thread. might be latched properly, but not tightly (my own thought)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,846
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Zinister101
    Newest Member
    Zinister101
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 636 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By newdude · Posted

      Engine failure requires radiator replacement per GM if it contains an engine oil cooler.  They do NOT want them flushed.  Radiator replacement is also required for the 6.2 recall if the engine fails.   Here is the TSB the dealer is referring to - 22-NA-074 1..2    Its a slightly older version, but the current version of it covers all model years 2000-2026.  So if enough failure debris was present, it gets an oil cooler.  If that is part of the radiator, it gets a radiator.  Also, same for oil cooler lines.  Those get replaced.     Now something like a 2.7 Turbo which uses an oil to water heat exchanger for the oil cooler, the radiator would be left alone but the oil cooler would be replaced, as well as any lines.  
    • txab
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By txab · Posted

      Doing the right thing, replacing both valves is the way to go. The valves with the ball leak far more often than the schrader. Never cared for them. The accumulator really should be replaced if the system has had no pressure in it and it was a keeper, but since you're looking to sell it, bet you can get by. Did you pull the orifice screen and see what was there?   Shame you can't get 134a. Hopefully the previous repairs included dye.   Some of the R4s I messed with developed leaks where the line sets connected or the front seal. Had one where the HPCO was leaking. Front seal would only leak under pressure. See any obvious oily spots?   I've got nitrogen I use to test pressure and to help dry the system prior to evacuation.   Keep up the good work
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Next time you're on a road trip to a state where you can still buy it stock up on 12oz cans, you might look into getting certified so you can buy it where you are as well. When they switched from R12 to R134a the test for certification was easy, they basically just wanted the $25
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...