Jump to content

Using Ford Injectors In My Gmc?

L29er

Recommended Posts

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
Posted

so a buddy of mine was saying how guys are putting ford injectors inplace of there factory ones, i suppose if the style is the same they may work, the operating pressure is very similar. they are much newer injectors so they have a finer spray ad apparently flow the same amount giving better idle, response and economy. i know mine leak down right now and i have a spare factory set but if this is possible i may give it a try, of course if they are the same price or cheaper than the factory ones.

 

my truck is an 98 MPI 454 engine so i have 8 injectors,

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
  • Author
Posted

found a set for sale from fiveomotorsports in california, they are 19# ford motorsports bosch injectors and are a direct replacement set they are $308.50. fired them an email, may also call them tomorow and chat about them.

 

something funny that i realized about "if" i use these injectors, i may have to admit to "powered by ford" :thumbs::D

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No No No . . .

You have it backwards.

You are supposed to put GM parts INTO a f*rd to improve a f*rd.

 

 

:thumbs: Yeah i know, it doesn`t seem right, it could be embarasing saying i`ve got ford injectors under the hood, but its just that the factory ones really suck, this is gonna be my second set and i`m still under 60K miles! besides they don`t say ford on them it says bosch, so if we don`t tell we can keep it a secret. :D

 

do the 8.1 injectors fit? i`d take a wild guess and say that they are at least 100 bucks a peice, the factory 454 ones are, what a rip and they only last 30K miles. 300 bucks for 8 sounds so much better.

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
  • Author
Posted
crap I've had my originals for all 140K.

 

 

In a 454?, lucky bugger, i`m choked i didn`t know about these injectors years ago!!

we must have crappy fuel here!!

svensk Senior Enthusiast

svensk

Posted
Posted
crap I've had my originals for all 140K.

 

 

In a 454?, lucky bugger, i`m choked i didn`t know about these injectors years ago!!

we must have crappy fuel here!!

 

nope. just a 5.3. Unfortunately the 454 and 496 are completely different animals which sucks when you want to get parts.

  • 3 weeks later...
n0dih New Member

n0dih

Posted
Posted

Last time I checked Ford doesn't MAKE fuel injectors... So you are safe and still 100% Ford free....

 

I have a 99 454. I am going put in LT1 injectors, but they issue is SIZE. You will need to contact a tuner and have the injector flow rate adjusted.

 

Stock flow rate is 18 lb/hr @ 3 bar. But the 454 runs at 4 bar, so that makes it in the 22 lb/range.

 

The 454's run rich anyway and nearly everyone has a bad fuel pressure regulator making it works.... And the famous factory leaking injectors doesn't help either...

 

You CAN run the LS1 and LS6 injectors too, again, with appropriate fuel injector size change too. The look different but will work (minor mods if you don't have the LS1/LS6 retaining clips and need to use the 454 clips)

 

Injectors:

LT1 = 24 lb/hr @ 3 bar

LS6 = 24 lb/hr @ 3 bar, 28.8 lb/hr @ 4 bar

LS1 = 22 lb/hr @ 3 bar, 25 lb/hr @ 3 bar

350 TPI = 22 lb/hr @ 3 bar

305 TPI = 19 lb/hr @ 3 bar

302 Ford = 19 lb/hr @ 3 bar

L29/L21 454 = 18 lb/hr @ 3 bar, 22 lb/hr @ 4 bar

L18 496 = 28.8 lb/hr @ 4 bar (I am wondering if these are LS6 injectors)

LQ4 = 26 lb/hr @ 4 bar (probably the LS1 injectors, see above)

5.3L = 26 lb/hr @ 4 bar (same as above...)

 

There is a few other injector parameters that need to be tweaked too if you change to a different type injector. Staying with a stock type those parameters are easy to find. But Flow Rate is they key one....

 

 

 

so a buddy of mine was saying how guys are putting ford injectors inplace of there factory ones, i suppose if the style is the same they may work, the operating pressure is very similar. they are much newer injectors so they have a finer spray ad apparently flow the same amount giving better idle, response and economy. i know mine leak down right now and i have a spare factory set but if this is possible i may give it a try, of course if they are the same price or cheaper than the factory ones.

 

my truck is an 98 MPI 454 engine so i have 8 injectors,

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah the injectors are "for" a ford not actually FORD brand, i`ve got them now its way to dam cold right now to put them in they are rated at 19 lbs at 43.5 psi, truck normally runs 55-60 psi so i`m guessing at least 20-22 lbs, dunno the ratio change but the guy said they are direct bolt up, and yes they look like they drop in, if i`m not busy at work tommorow i`ll pull her ina bay and swap them in, they appear to have a much finer jet nozzle, which should give better combustion, i report back asoon as they are in and i`m running again!

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well got them in and definatley had bad injectors, i was almost knocked down by the gas stench comming from the intake when i took it off, replaced ff and she fired right up, runs alittle smoother, and definatley starts good warm as apposed to the leaky ones, dunno about the performance, it has snowed here about 6" and road conditions are very poor, can`t really give`r and go to feel the difference. should be more effecient solely on the fact that no more fuel is wasted leaking into intake when truck is turned off!!, weather is supposed to be bad for over a week here so have to wait and see if shes got more go, anyways will report more info later,.....

  • 4 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...