Valve Train Help...

Dyabolical · April 26, 2008

So i got the driver side valve cover off and discovered where my ticking was coming for...but i am not totally sure. I can move the rockers side to side and roll them a little bit. So i am thinking that the lash is incorrect.

When i say i can roll the rockers, i mean i can tilt the rockers towards the other valves, not back and forth on the normal pivot. I understand how to set lash, the problem is i don't know which valves will be intake and what will be exhaust.

Any help?

'97 5.7L, it is the sequential central fuel injected, Vin code R if that changes anything.

Mike G · April 29, 2008

It's been a while since I set valves on a Chevy, but... Does it really matter which-is-which. I believe you set the valve (either individually or both at the top of the compression stroke) to the fully closed position and then set the load, right?

--Mike

mcreyaufmiller · May 4, 2008

Heres what I posted a long time ago:

From the Helm's Manual:

With the Engine in the number 1 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 1, 3, 4, and 8 and the intake valves for cylinders number 1, 2, 5, and 7.

Turn the valve rocker arm nut counter clockwise until the valve lash is felt in the valve pushrod.

Turn the rocker arm nut clockwise until all of the valve lash is removed (zero valve lash).

Zero valve lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more up and down movement of the valve pushrod.

When all the valve lash is removed, then turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise 1 additional turn (360 degrees).

With the engine in the number 6 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 2, 5, 6, and 7 and the intake valves for cylinders number 3, 4, 6, and 8.

Follow the same steps as above.

Make sure the engine is cold, I like to do mine first time in the morning after the engine has sat all night. My old enging began to have the annoying chevy clicking until I followed these procedures and the noise went away!!!!!

jefferias · May 4, 2008

I just finished up doing an engine swap and i also had to set the valve lash. This is how i did it and i strongly reccomend this way because i did it (lol) and it was fast and easy!

1) get motor to operating temp

2) pull off 1 valve cover

3) start motor and loosen off the stud nut on the first valve until it just starts to "click"

4) tighten nut now ever so slighty till "click" is gone (this is zero lash)

5) now go anywhere from an extra 1/4 turn to a full turn tightening.(i went 3/4 turn)

6) valve lash is now set and just continue on 1 at a time for the rest of the valves.

Just remember to get correct op. temperature and do the loosen/tighten when motor is running. May want an old set of covers with top cut off for a splash shield but i never used it and wasnt all that messy. good luck and this way should work for yeah.

pennzoil29 · May 4, 2008

I just finished up doing an engine swap and i also had to set the valve lash. This is how i did it and i strongly reccomend this way because i did it (lol) and it was fast and easy!

1) get motor to operating temp

2) pull off 1 valve cover

3) start motor and loosen off the stud nut on the first valve until it just starts to "click"

4) tighten nut now ever so slighty till "click" is gone (this is zero lash)

5) now go anywhere from an extra 1/4 turn to a full turn tightening.(i went 3/4 turn)

6) valve lash is now set and just continue on 1 at a time for the rest of the valves.

Just remember to get correct op. temperature and do the loosen/tighten when motor is running. May want an old set of covers with top cut off for a splash shield but i never used it and wasnt all that messy. good luck and this way should work for yeah.

I have also done this on my '70's models.