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Charging System Issue


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Posted

So yesterday I was driving and without any warning, no battery light, the stereo cut out, then when I looked down, my gauges were dead, but the truck was still running, albeit rough. I then foolishly turned it off when I parked, and it couldnt crank the starter. So I got a boost and it was running really rough, barely alive, so I was revving high and trying to get to the dealership to get a new Delco on warranty, but died again, luckily right across from a shop so I went and bought a 900cca interstate battery. I put it in and she started up fine, the truck ran ok, but was only showing 12v on the gauge. I thought it might have needed to be worn in or something so I left it. Then today I was driving and it started dying out so I managed to chugg it all the way to napa, stalling mroe than it was running. I got there and replaced it with a 130amp alternator, and tested the old one and it was dead. I was getting 14-16 volts and then tonight the battery light came on and I was showing 12v. I managed to get it into the driveway, and it was below 9v, then it died about 3min later. I checked all my connections and everything looked fine, but I added another 0g wire from the alternator to battery. I hooked up the old battery directly to the alternator (its almost dead) and then tried to start the truck again, it started, and then I checked the voltage on the alternator, and each battery and they were all at 7v, I disconnected the old battery and it started chugging agian, so i hooked it back up adn then it died a little sooner.

 

I'm at a loss as to what to do next, if anyone has any ideas I appreciate it. Sorry for the longwinded post!

 

 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jon

Posted
Ground Strap?

 

When I was looking whatI figured to be the ground strap was a cable going from the negative terminal running down to under the Drivers headlight and then being bolted to the frame and continuing on from there, it looked to be in good condition, but I plan to get some 0g cable tomorrow and upgrade the big 3... well I guess I only have 2 left... I'm assuming thats what the ground strap is? or is the ground strap the one from the chassis to block, in which case I'm not sure where it is...

Posted

OK, anyone have a diagram? And since I'll be upgrading it anyways, how big should I go? Is 0 enough or should I go to 0/3 or something? Keep in mind I have a biger alternator now. Oh and do I need a fusible link between the alternator + and the battery or is just wire ok?

Guest Riggs
Posted

just wire, i know a few companies put fuses in between but i dont think orus do... i could be wrong...

Posted
just wire, i know a few companies put fuses in between but i dont think orus do... i could be wrong...

 

It's originally a fusable link... But I'm not really too worried...

Posted

Ok so I've tried a new ground, a new chassis-block, a new alternator to +, nothing seemed to be working, soon after I disconnect the boosting car the truck will die. I took a reading right at the alternator and it would be dropping until the truck died again, the same voltage as the battery... So I took out the alternator and took it to napa and tested it and it was bad... So I got a new one, brought it home, put it in, and the exact same thing is happening. I tested the new alternator before I left and it exceeded specs... I'm really at a loss here, and also worried that whatever fault there is its killing alternators, theyre lifetime but it's still a pain to get a new one... Anyone have any other ideas?

Posted

Is it even possible to kill an alternator simply by grounding it and putting on the positive?

Posted

Check the alternator wiring. Make sure there aren't damaged. Check the battery wires, and make sure that a fusible link is not damaged. Alternators can easily be fried because most have internal electronics to regulate voltage. When you take the alternator back, have them check the battery as well. Let us know what you find.

-Al

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