50k Trans And Truck Service

solarjustin · July 7, 2008

I got two parts to this question.

First what do all you guys do at 50K on your trucks? I got this truck a little over a year ago with 36K on it and now I'm just short of 50K and my 5/100K runs out this December so I figure it is time to give the truck a good once over.

I am planning on doing everthing my self except for the trans service. I called the dealer and got 3 options and price for the trans service and wanted to get some input on what you guys would do.

#1. Fluid and Filter change for $119.95

#2. Fluid flush and NO Filter change for $124.95

#3. Filter change and fluid flus for $219.95

Then what else should I be doing?

#1 Rear diff fluid (2wd truck)

#2 Coolant flush? I read the GM stuff is good for 100K or 5 years? Should I change it because it is almost 5years or wait untill 100K? Any thoughs?

#3 Check/change serpentine belt and A/C compressor belt

#4 Power stearing fluid? The guy at the dealer said that some people have been saying after 40K to replace it, but he didn't think it was something that really needed to be done. Any thoughs?

#....any other items I should be thinking about?

Thanks

jrrod2004 · July 7, 2008

I got two parts to this question.

First what do all you guys do at 50K on your trucks? I got this truck a little over a year ago with 36K on it and now I'm just short of 50K and my 5/100K runs out this December so I figure it is time to give the truck a good once over.

I am planning on doing everthing my self except for the trans service. I called the dealer and got 3 options and price for the trans service and wanted to get some input on what you guys would do.

#1. Fluid and Filter change for $119.95

#2. Fluid flush and NO Filter change for $124.95

#3. Filter change and fluid flus for $219.95

Then what else should I be doing?

#1 Rear diff fluid (2wd truck)

#2 Coolant flush? I read the GM stuff is good for 100K or 5 years? Should I change it because it is almost 5years or wait untill 100K? Any thoughs?

#3 Check/change serpentine belt and A/C compressor belt

#4 Power stearing fluid? The guy at the dealer said that some people have been saying after 40K to replace it, but he didn't think it was something that really needed to be done. Any thoughs?

#....any other items I should be thinking about?

Thanks

Most of that stuff is your decision however I would recommend the coolant flush and replace the power steering fluid....most of that stuff you can do at your house if you have the proper setup. If not, then I would only recommend it at the dealership because if they break something, it will be a lot easier to get it fixed using GM parts. I actually already have had my transmission serviced (warranty replacement due to low fluid) so I go in for a trans flush about every 15,000 miles. The power steering fluid will be replaced around 36,000 miles (about 3 years since I purchased the truck is when I hit 36,000 miles). The belts can last another 20,000 miles depending on condition. As for the rear diff, you can do that as well. Mine was already serviced at about 16,000 miles - I baby the shit out of my truck (while it is under warranty). Make sure that they lubricate the chassis and any fittings.

jrrod2004 · July 7, 2008

oh yeah, dont forget the brake fluid....that could be worth checking as well

solarjustin · July 7, 2008

so stupid question, how do you know if break fluid needs replaced. Just by color? The same with power stearing fluid can you tell by color, or should I just go ahead and do it? Most of the fluids are simple enough to change, I just don't feel like messing with the trans myself.

jrrod2004 · July 7, 2008

not really, I would want to change mine out every 2-3 years....some may change every year, it is more of personal preference BUT you really want to check your fluid:

Since you can't tell how badly contaminated brake fluid is by its appearance alone (unless the fluid is full of rust or is muddy brown), the fluid should be tested unless you are changing it for preventive maintenance or as part of a brake job.......

There are three ways to check the condition of the brake fluid:

* An optical refractometer will clearly show the amount of moisture in the brake fluid. A small drop of fluid is placed in the tester, then the tester is held up to a light to read the amount of contamination. This tester is extremely accurate and shows both the percent of moisture and the fluid's boiling point. A source for this type of tool is Misco.

* Chemical test strips. A chemical test strip made by Phoenix Systems (888-749-7977) www.stripdip.com called "Strip Dip" can reveal the condition of the corrosion inhibitors in the brake fluid. The FASCAR chemicals react to the presence of copper in the fluid. The test strip changes color to reveal the condition of the fluid. When copper levels reach 100, it indicates the corrosion inhibitors are nearing the end of their life. If the copper level is 200 or higher, the corrosion inhibitors are worn out and the fluid needs to be changed.

* Electronic brake fluid testers actually measure the fluid's boiling point. The test takes only about a minute and is quite accurate. If the fluid's boiling temperature is getting dangerously low, replacement is recommended to minimize the risks of pedal fade caused by fluid boil. A source for electronic brake fluid testers is Alba Diagnostics at Alba Diagnostics

D&SYukonDenali · July 7, 2008

I am planning on doing everthing my self except for the trans service. I called the dealer and got 3 options and price for the trans service and wanted to get some input on what you guys would do.
#1. Fluid and Filter change for $119.95

#2. Fluid flush and NO Filter change for $124.95

#3. Filter change and fluid flus for $219.95

IMO, I would only do #1. A flush has a higher risk of tranmission failure caused by "chucks of crud" (very technical term) breaking free and getting into places where they can do damage. If you do a fluid change, make sure they use the OEM fluid or approved equivalent. New concentrations or different detergents in the system can cause more harm than good. The fluid change (rather than flush) will introduce fresh fluid slower into the system since only ~50-70% will be replaced. The filter change will also provided an effective way to remove anything that happens to come clean due to the fluid change (clean filter provides a better fluid flow than a dirty filter).

jrrod2004 · July 7, 2008

I am planning on doing everthing my self except for the trans service. I called the dealer and got 3 options and price for the trans service and wanted to get some input on what you guys would do.
#1. Fluid and Filter change for $119.95

#2. Fluid flush and NO Filter change for $124.95

#3. Filter change and fluid flus for $219.95

IMO, I would only do #1. A flush has a higher risk of tranmission failure caused by "chucks of crud" (very technical term) breaking free and getting into places where they can do damage. If you do a fluid change, make sure they use the OEM fluid or approved equivalent. New concentrations or different detergents in the system can cause more harm than good. The fluid change (rather than flush) will introduce fresh fluid slower into the system since only ~50-70% will be replaced. The filter change will also provided an effective way to remove anything that happens to come clean due to the fluid change (clean filter provides a better fluid flow than a dirty filter).

Call me stupid, but if I understand correctly, this means a drain, filter change and then a fill???

D&SYukonDenali · July 7, 2008

I am planning on doing everthing my self except for the trans service. I called the dealer and got 3 options and price for the trans service and wanted to get some input on what you guys would do.
#1. Fluid and Filter change for $119.95

#2. Fluid flush and NO Filter change for $124.95

#3. Filter change and fluid flus for $219.95

IMO, I would only do #1. A flush has a higher risk of tranmission failure caused by "chucks of crud" (very technical term) breaking free and getting into places where they can do damage. If you do a fluid change, make sure they use the OEM fluid or approved equivalent. New concentrations or different detergents in the system can cause more harm than good. The fluid change (rather than flush) will introduce fresh fluid slower into the system since only ~50-70% will be replaced. The filter change will also provided an effective way to remove anything that happens to come clean due to the fluid change (clean filter provides a better fluid flow than a dirty filter).

Call me stupid, but if I understand correctly, this means a drain, filter change and then a fill???

That is how I read #1 (drain, drop pan, fliter change, fill). I read the flush as: drain, drop pan, pressure clean the inside to remove 95% of the fluid, filter change, and fill.

A flush (except in poker) never sounds good to me.

slimjim2525 · July 7, 2008

I would do front and rear diff. fluid. Transfer case fluid, and tranny oil and filter change. don't change the power steer ing fluid, it's a complete waste of time IMO. I've never heard of someone changing the power steering fluid. You can wait on the coolant.

jrrod2004 · July 7, 2008

That is how I read #1 (drain, drop pan, fliter change, fill). I read the flush as: drain, drop pan, pressure clean the inside to remove 95% of the fluid, filter change, and fill.
A flush (except in poker) never sounds good to me.

Hmmm....I get them confused at times, I guess mine was a flush

solarjustin · July 8, 2008

Yes #1 would be drain, droop the pan, replace filter, re-fill

#2 would be exchanging as much fluid as they can but no filter change, I assume they do this flush without taking the pan off.

unit731 · July 8, 2008

I am planning on doing everthing my self except for the trans service. I called the dealer and got 3 options and price for the trans service and wanted to get some input on what you guys would do.
#1. Fluid and Filter change for $119.95

#2. Fluid flush and NO Filter change for $124.95

#3. Filter change and fluid flus for $219.95

IMO, I would only do #1. A flush has a higher risk of tranmission failure caused by "chucks of crud" (very technical term) breaking free and getting into places where they can do damage. If you do a fluid change, make sure they use the OEM fluid or approved equivalent. New concentrations or different detergents in the system can cause more harm than good. The fluid change (rather than flush) will introduce fresh fluid slower into the system since only ~50-70% will be replaced. The filter change will also provided an effective way to remove anything that happens to come clean due to the fluid change (clean filter provides a better fluid flow than a dirty filter).

Agreed!