Jump to content

Amp / Sub Install...


Guest Riggs

Recommended Posts

Guest Riggs
Posted

Alright well now that i finally have had the help from my other thread... now im going to need help with the install...

i know alot more about this stuff than the actually components themselves.....

 

Today i started building my box.... F***ed up... called one of my dad's part time employees that works with wood for a living.. and he is building me a box.. :thumbs: when its done its going to have .8-.9 Cubic feet of air.. before it had .7 and i made some adjustments.. i knwo its a little low but oh well it will still be pretty nice :dunno:

 

but now the wiring.. i ran the 8 Gauge wire form the battery and i ran it inside and routed it under the kick panel and is right where it needs to be..

 

But now the RCA cables.. and the "Remote Wire" i dont under stand...

 

somebody told me i have to run them on different sides of the truck?

 

where exactly do i hook up the Remote Wire? i think the RCA plugs are pretty self explanitory you just plug those in the back of the radio (im pretty sure)

 

and 1 last question (for thunderstuck .... hopefully he reads this..) where did you ground your amp in your truck?

Posted
Alright well now that i finally have had the help from my other thread... now im going to need help with the install...

i know alot more about this stuff than the actually components themselves.....

 

Today i started building my box.... F***ed up... called one of my dad's part time employees that works with wood for a living.. and he is building me a box.. :thumbs: when its done its going to have .8-.9 Cubic feet of air.. before it had .7 and i made some adjustments.. i knwo its a little low but oh well it will still be pretty nice :dunno:

 

but now the wiring.. i ran the 8 Gauge wire form the battery and i ran it inside and routed it under the kick panel and is right where it needs to be..

 

But now the RCA cables.. and the "Remote Wire" i dont under stand...

 

somebody told me i have to run them on different sides of the truck?

 

where exactly do i hook up the Remote Wire? i think the RCA plugs are pretty self explanitory you just plug those in the back of the radio (im pretty sure)

 

and 1 last question (for thunderstuck .... hopefully he reads this..) where did you ground your amp in your truck?

 

The remote wire should hook up to your head unit if you have an aftermarket unit installed. No reason to run the remote wire and the RCA cables down different sides of the truck although you probably would want to run the RCA cables down the opposite side from the power cable. I grounded my amp to one of the rear seat studs and it works fine. The shorter the ground the better.

Posted

The old myth about keeping your signal cables and power cables apart is completely false. Bundle all your cables if it will make it easier.

Guest Riggs
Posted

yea i would like to run them all down the drivers side since that is where the sub / amp will be...

 

i guess ill pull the dash off AGAIN 2 marro and run the rca cables and the remote wire... im going to wait for the ground until i actually get the amp / sub....

 

Thanks again!!

 

ill just post here if i have anymore questions..

Posted
somebody told me i have to run them on different sides of the truck?
You don't have to. I did though, just because it was easier that way.

 

where exactly do i hook up the Remote Wire?
It should be connected to the remote output wire of your HU. I think on your Kenwood, it will be a blue wire with a white stripe and labeled "P. Cont"

 

i think the RCA plugs are pretty self explanitory you just plug those in the back of the radio (im pretty sure)
Right, you'll plug the RCA cables into your HU's subwoofer outputs. If your HU doesn't have subwoofer outputs, use the rear outputs.

 

and 1 last question (for thunderstuck .... hopefully he reads this..) where did you ground your amp in your truck?
To the rear seatbelt bolt, just like bossier62guy.
Guest Riggs
Posted

THANK YOU THUNDERSTRUCK!!!!

 

i was just coming on here to ask wether to hook up the rca plugs to the front or the rear rca plugs...

 

and you told me what wire to hook up the remote wire to...

 

i should be paying you for this.....

Guest Riggs
Posted

Update...

 

i finished running the wires (Power, RCA, And remote...)

 

img0605hx7.jpg

 

and i recieved my box today: here she is:

 

img0599nn3.jpg

 

img0601aq8.jpg

 

img0603zx8.jpg

 

and he used polyurathane instead of liquid nails, since its stonger.. and i had him put screws every 4 inches...

 

so it should be strong enough..

Posted
THANK YOU THUNDERSTRUCK!!!!

 

i was just coming on here to ask wether to hook up the rca plugs to the front or the rear rca plugs...

 

and you told me what wire to hook up the remote wire to...

i should be paying you for this.....

 

Kyle, send him your PayPal info!!!

Posted
i was just coming on here to ask wether to hook up the rca plugs to the front or the rear rca plugs...
Your HU might have an option to change the rear outputs into subwoofer outputs. Go to http://www.kenwoodusa.com/ , type in your headunit's model number and get it's owners manual.

 

Even if it doesn't, your amplifier will let you make the necessary adjustments, it's just that you won't be able to adjust these settings on-the-fly from your headunit.

 

i should be paying you for this.....
:D

 

BTW, are you going to put those wires under the carpet? The carpet is just tucked under the panels, you can just pull it out and tuck it back in. You might have to take out the jack box though.

Posted
i was just coming on here to ask wether to hook up the rca plugs to the front or the rear rca plugs...
Your HU might have an option to change the rear outputs into subwoofer outputs. Go to http://www.kenwoodusa.com/ , type in your headunit's model number and get it's owners manual.

 

Even if it doesn't, your amplifier will let you make the necessary adjustments, it's just that you won't be able to adjust these settings on-the-fly from your headunit.

 

 

 

1 step ahead this time.. i was reading and found out how to adjust it.. but the amp comes with a controller too..

 

:D im think of just letting my amp sit on the floor and hold it down with something im not sure what yet....

Posted
1 step ahead this time.. i was reading and found out how to adjust it.. but the amp comes with a controller too..
Yeah, my Kicker also came with a bass level controller. I didn't use it though since my Kenwood has built-in Subwoofer level controls.

 

Damn it Riggs, I wanted to do that to my sig pic too.

Posted

how long is the cord for the controller that comes with the amp?

Posted

holy crap... i might mount it somewhere convienant in or around the dash so i can adjust fairly easy ....

Posted

I've seen people mount it in the pocket beneath the A/C controls and also inside the center console.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...