Jump to content

Looking For A 4x4 Write Up


Recommended Posts

Posted

I tried the search function and didn't find anything on a write up for fixing the 4x4 selector switch. I have read on here that people have taken the switch apart and resoutered it and fixed it. I took it apart but nothing looked out of place. Anyone have a write up on how to fix this?

Posted

If it ain't broken, DON'T fix it. If it IS broken, replace it...I've seen 4x4 switches for 20 bucks on Ebay all the time before.

Posted

+1

 

also try gmpartsdirect - phone your dealer and ask for a parts number and do a search for it there

 

 

My 4x4 switch works great! Haha, but it always is unusually hot to the touch all of the time.

Posted

Wow awesome reply's going on here. Considering my dealership is complete a--holes I wont do business with them. Anyone on here have the part number??

 

I take it there is no write up on this?

Posted

Ya they have had it on here before guys talking about fixing it. I'll see if the dealer is able to pull the trouble codes and see what it is from there.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I repaired mine, takes about 2 mins to pull it out of the dash, remove the switch box, disconnect the 2 connectors, pull the back cover off and you'll see the solder pins, just use a solder iron to "reflow" the solder. Mine had visible cracks, put a dab of solder flux, may need solder, touched it with a solder iron 500-600F...and walla, about 20mins of my time and its fixed.

 

This is what it looks like once you have it out and the back cover off, there is two rows of solderpins, if yours is bad, you'll see cracks in the solder around the pins. Yousimply just "reflow" or melt the solder for a good connection. The solder is cracking over time for some reason, thats the problem, creating a high resistance circuit or open circuit condition which triggers the "Service 4x4" light.

post-67182-1255450941_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450951_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450941_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450951_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450941_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450951_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450941_thumb.jpg

post-67182-1255450951_thumb.jpg

Posted
I repaired mine, takes about 2 mins to pull it out of the dash, remove the switch box, disconnect the 2 connectors, pull the back cover off and you'll see the solder pins, just use a solder iron to "reflow" the solder. Mine had visible cracks, put a dab of solder flux, may need solder, touched it with a solder iron 500-600F...and walla, about 20mins of my time and its fixed.

 

This is what it looks like once you have it out and the back cover off, there is two rows of solderpins, if yours is bad, you'll see cracks in the solder around the pins. Yousimply just "reflow" or melt the solder for a good connection. The solder is cracking over time for some reason, thats the problem, creating a high resistance circuit or open circuit condition which triggers the "Service 4x4" light.

 

There are lots of articles on this repair on the internet. The last poster hit the nail on the head. My old 99 Silverado had this problem. Re-flowed the solder joints and drove it for 5 years until i sold it with no more problems. Cost to fix? $0 Zero Dollars! About 20 minutes including disassembly, repair and re-install. Simple fix!

Posted
I repaired mine, takes about 2 mins to pull it out of the dash, remove the switch box, disconnect the 2 connectors, pull the back cover off and you'll see the solder pins, just use a solder iron to "reflow" the solder. Mine had visible cracks, put a dab of solder flux, may need solder, touched it with a solder iron 500-600F...and walla, about 20mins of my time and its fixed.

 

This is what it looks like once you have it out and the back cover off, there is two rows of solderpins, if yours is bad, you'll see cracks in the solder around the pins. Yousimply just "reflow" or melt the solder for a good connection. The solder is cracking over time for some reason, thats the problem, creating a high resistance circuit or open circuit condition which triggers the "Service 4x4" light.

 

Exactly what I did. I have some minor soldering skills and this was a 4 on a scale of 1-10.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...