Jump to content

Rust Proofing


Recommended Posts

Posted

I live in Ontario, I am going to get my 08 Sierra crowned. (rust proofed)

 

Always have and it seems to make them last longer. I cant see a downside in keeping t oiled.

 

 

Just my Two cents.

Posted

if you get it done ever couple years it is nice..

 

there is a detail shop around here that does it for 100 bucks, so you could almost get it done every year

Posted
winter is coming and here in atlantic canada the amount of salt/sand mix is terrable, I use to rust proof my old 88 gmc and it held up very well, What do you recomend on my 2008 silverado?.

 

If you plan on keeping it more than three years or so I would deem it as a necessity.

Posted

I use LPS3 - pretty good stuff.

 

Waxy, self-healing film stops rust and corrosion, and protects for up to 2 years.

Resists moisture, sand, dirt, dust, and vibration. Penetrates to displace moisture and provides antiseize coating. Meets or exceeds specifications: MIL-C-16173D-Grade 2, MIL-C-0083933A, BMS 3-23G Type II; Class I, Grade A & B DMS 2150, Airbus TN A.007.10138 Type I, Grade 2.

 

Its self-healing, so if a part gets chipped, scraped or scratched off it will fill itself in.

  • 6 months later...
Posted
I use LPS3 - pretty good stuff.

 

Waxy, self-healing film stops rust and corrosion, and protects for up to 2 years.

Resists moisture, sand, dirt, dust, and vibration. Penetrates to displace moisture and provides antiseize coating. Meets or exceeds specifications: MIL-C-16173D-Grade 2, MIL-C-0083933A, BMS 3-23G Type II; Class I, Grade A & B DMS 2150, Airbus TN A.007.10138 Type I, Grade 2.

 

Its self-healing, so if a part gets chipped, scraped or scratched off it will fill itself in.

 

Matthuber1, where do you get this LPS3? Do you apply it yourself, or have it done? $$??

Tnx!

Posted
I use LPS3 - pretty good stuff.

 

Waxy, self-healing film stops rust and corrosion, and protects for up to 2 years.

Resists moisture, sand, dirt, dust, and vibration. Penetrates to displace moisture and provides antiseize coating. Meets or exceeds specifications: MIL-C-16173D-Grade 2, MIL-C-0083933A, BMS 3-23G Type II; Class I, Grade A & B DMS 2150, Airbus TN A.007.10138 Type I, Grade 2.

 

Its self-healing, so if a part gets chipped, scraped or scratched off it will fill itself in.

 

Matthuber1, where do you get this LPS3? Do you apply it yourself, or have it done? $$??

Tnx!

 

 

I know you can get it from McMaster-Carr

 

$11.14 for a 11 oz spray can or $48.07 for a gallon, plus shipping.

Posted

my grandpa used bitumen like substance they apply to marine vessels submerged areas. it was modified with anti rust additives. as crappy as our metal used on cars was, this one stayed intact for 21 yrs we owned it. he had it dissolved in a solvent and brushed thick layer on undercarriage.

it was not just rust proofing but, as it was very gummy in consistence, created a very good barrier for rocks and harsh particles.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I think this is the closest I'm going to get to reconciling your statements with my experience.    Can you confirm you haven't measured the amount of oil drained from your engine to verify what quantity was in the engine at time of drain?    For what its worth, the quote above EXACTLY replicates my observations on my 2015, 2016 and 2018, no measurable drop on the stick. EXCEPT that when I measure the oil volume drained from the pan - the drained volume is about a quart less compared to a new fill. 
    • A little late to this. I am going to order a 2027 as soon as the order banks open. It'll be a 3.0l again. This time in a Yukon. 
    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...