P0332 Knock Sensor 2002 Sierra..help !

agg2001 · December 23, 2010

Thank you for the walkthroughs. This will definitely help me once I get around to replacing the parts. Anyone happen to have the part numbers handy for the sensors, gaskets and wire harness on a 2003 Tahoe (5.3L)? I found the following part numbers (couldn't find wire harness) and I wanted to double check them:

GM Part Number: 89060413

Manifold Gasket

GM Part Number: 12589867

Knock Sensor

WIRE HARNESS 12601822

alright... i'm SO glad i found this. google FTW! haha.

anyhow, i'm no slouch when it comes to working on motors - i figure if i can change plugs on a trailblazer i can nearly do anything. that being said, i'm looking at gmgenuineparts.net and found in this thread the part number for the harness.

can someone tell me what the part number are for the parts i need? i cleared my code this morning, let it get all "monitors" back to ready. i got her inspected (dang sneaky cops) and on the ride back home after passing inspection, the light comes on again - shorlty after gunning it a bit. anyhow, i'm sick of this error, and just want to fix her. plus it looks like it would be a good idea to dig down in there a do a little cleaning anyhow.

so in short - what are all the part numbesr from one place? if gmgenuineparts.net is the "cheap place" then lay em on me. if not, just lemme know what i need to order and from where and i'll snap some shots along the way (for the SUPER noobs like myself that aren't afraid of tackling something that's prolly an all day job). thanks y'all!!

~Agg

alright... i think i found it. sorry about that - did a little more "in depth" reading. reading for the win! anyways, just wanna double check that i need:

two sensors

one hardness

one set of new gaskets (2 pack)

thanks!

jawzzy · December 24, 2010

that's what I got ordered and received to do mine (coming in Xmas day with my daughter ;) )...the only other thing, which I didn't find, would be the valley pan gasket, but I'm hoping

I won't need it. I ordered all my stuff from Amazon at GREAT prices, except the harness, which I found on Ebay, also at a GREAT price!!!! Happy shopping:)

OH, I also ordered 2x Fel-Pro ES71190 Gasket Set, 2x Fel-Pro ES71192 Gasket Set for the fuel rails, but not sure I'll use them, and

a Fel-Pro 61070 FelPro Gasket for the Throttle body!!

agg2001 · December 24, 2010

are there other gaskets i WILL need, or is the intake one all i'll FOR SURE need?

jawzzy · December 24, 2010

are there other gaskets i WILL need, or is the intake one all i'll FOR SURE need?

from reading this thread, I got the feeling the throttle body would be necessary, and the fuel rails

depending on how they are dismantled...whether as a unit with the intake assembly or separately.

agg2001 · December 24, 2010

i'm hoping/planning on just taking the whole upper assembly off as a single unit. i guess we'll see what happens. haha. might have to do a little digging around in there first i suppose.

jawzzy · January 2, 2011

well I finally got to the job today, and all in all it went well...took over 7 hours, but for first time, I understand this is normal...my biggest delay was trying to remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail WITH the special tool...I wasted 2 hours trying to get them off(so my suggestion, remove them FIRST in case you need to seek help with them if that's the way you want to go), then decided to remove the rails and leaving them connected to the fuel lines, pulled up out of the way, and really not a problem as I had ordered the gaskets for the rails anyway, so they got used ;) other than this as a tip (vs removing the lines), everything else posted here in the thread was bang on. (I had to edit this post as I got my MAP and MAF mixed up in my head, and all in all I just forgot to CONNECT the MAP at the very back of the MI, so don't forget that one too like I did when reconnecting everything..it's easy to miss back there )

one concern though.... as soon as I removed the Manifold Intake, I noticed some wet oil on the back ports, then after tipping the MI up on it's side, I found a small puddle of oil had come out of it..if appears to have come in the PCV intake..I talked to a mechanic friend, and he said if I'm not eating any oil, and I never have, then it could just have been a build up

of excess taken in through the PCV line, and not to really worry about it...any thoughts on this?

kbbodine · January 18, 2011

I finished the knock sensor replacement over the weekend. Following the great information from this post helped so much. Thanks for everyone that took the time to share the information. The intake and ports on the head had quite a bit of build up, any thoughts on what this is from? cheap, gas, bad PCV? Thanks again.

leesfeed · February 1, 2011

I just bought a 2002 GMC Yukon XL with 151,171 on the meter. After reading this post I figure I need to change the knock sensors. Is there a website I can go to where I can order all the parts I need at one time? I am planning on ordering:

2 knock sensors

knock sensor wiring harness

intake manifold gasket

and I will go buy cleaner and rtv from an auto parts store. Do I need valley pan gasket, throttle body gasket, and valley cover grommets?

I am looking forward to tackling this job. I am going to take many pics and post them if I can figure out how!

Thanks in advance!

Steven

jawzzy · February 1, 2011

I just bought a 2002 GMC Yukon XL with 151,171 on the meter. After reading this post I figure I need to change the knock sensors. Is there a website I can go to where I can order all the parts I need at one time? I am planning on ordering:
2 knock sensors

knock sensor wiring harness

intake manifold gasket

and I will go buy cleaner and rtv from an auto parts store. Do I need valley pan gasket, throttle body gasket, and valley cover grommets?

I am looking forward to tackling this job. I am going to take many pics and post them if I can figure out how!

Thanks in advance!

Steven

just take the part #'s from reading this post, and search the net, including eBay, and you'll find your best prices....I did really well with eBay for the harness and Amazon.com for the rest..REALLY!!!!!

I thought I wanted the valley pan gasket too, but after doing the job, I'm glad I didn't bother, but I did get the throttle body gasket, as it was cheap and easy to replace.

GOOD LUCK!!!! (and be sure to take note of my post above on the gas line fittings ;) )

rpar42 · February 6, 2011

Hi everyone!

I just joined the site because of the wealth of knowledge I have found on this topic! My knock sensors have been throwing codes for the past year or more and when i would have the code cleared, the CEL would often stay off for months at a time!

I'm finally at a point where I need to take the truck through emissions and I've decided to bite the bullet and fix the problem! I have washed the engine compartment in the past, so that very well could explain the cause of my problems. However, one would think that after hot summers and engine heat, the water would dry up and if there was still a problem with the KS's, the light would come on more often than it has for me. :-)

I've got a nice new garage now, so at least I can pull the truck in and have plenty of room to work! I'm hoping I see some of the same results that some of the rest of you have seen - mainly more power and better fuel economy - especially now that fuel is up around $3.20/gal here in the Seattle area again :-(

I'll post back with pictures and any additional comments/suggestions I may come up with in the process :-)

Thanks again!

Ryan

leesfeed · February 13, 2011

I just bought a 2002 GMC Yukon XL with 151,171 on the meter. After reading this post I figure I need to change the knock sensors. Is there a website I can go to where I can order all the parts I need at one time? I am planning on ordering:
2 knock sensors

knock sensor wiring harness

intake manifold gasket

and I will go buy cleaner and rtv from an auto parts store. Do I need valley pan gasket, throttle body gasket, and valley cover grommets?

I am looking forward to tackling this job. I am going to take many pics and post them if I can figure out how!

Thanks in advance!

Steven

just take the part #'s from reading this post, and search the net, including eBay, and you'll find your best prices....I did really well with eBay for the harness and Amazon.com for the rest..REALLY!!!!!

I thought I wanted the valley pan gasket too, but after doing the job, I'm glad I didn't bother, but I did get the throttle body gasket, as it was cheap and easy to replace.

GOOD LUCK!!!! (and be sure to take note of my post above on the gas line fittings ;) )

Ok... Today I decided would be the day to tackle the job. Well, I got all the way to the fuel rail/injector step in the Haynes manuel and after realizing that I might not be quite cut out to do this job, I put it all back together and told my wife that I am going to let a professional do it!!! I am quite mad at myself for giving up, but our Yukon is my wifes primary vehicle and I didn't want to screw it up under my carport and have to call a tow truck to come get it on Monday! The next step was to take off those fuel lines and I was looking at them like a cow looking at a new gate. Thats when I realized that I was probably in too deep. Anyway, I am hiring a mechanic that works for a GMC dealer and does jobs on the side and I am going to watch him do it if he will allow me to shadow him. I am going to take plenty of pics and maybe even a video to post on here. Thanks for the advice!

jawzzy · February 13, 2011

Ok... Today I decided would be the day to tackle the job. Well, I got all the way to the fuel rail/injector step in the Haynes manuel and after realizing that I might not be quite cut out to do this job, I put it all back together and told my wife that I am going to let a professional do it!!! I am quite mad at myself for giving up, but our Yukon is my wifes primary vehicle and I didn't want to screw it up under my carport and have to call a tow truck to come get it on Monday! The next step was to take off those fuel lines and I was looking at them like a cow looking at a new gate. Thats when I realized that I was probably in too deep. Anyway, I am hiring a mechanic that works for a GMC dealer and does jobs on the side and I am going to watch him do it if he will allow me to shadow him. I am going to take plenty of pics and maybe even a video to post on here. Thanks for the advice!

sorry to hear that that's the same spot that almost got me till I realized I could just remove the fuel rails and leave them

intact with the fuel lines, and slip the intake manifold out from under the rails...it was actually pretty easy to do, and I already

had the new fuel rail gaskets, so I got to use them too! Those fuel lines can be a real bitch, and no one seems to have provided

any tricks for doing the difficult ones, even with the right tool.

breadfan · February 21, 2011

Great thread! Since youve all got your thinking caps on, ponder this:

2005 2500HD 6.0l 125K miles

Okay so one day I get DTC p0332.. rear knock sensor... After reading the TSB, I jump right in. Seemed like a slam dunk-- the rear sensor was corroded/rotten and so while in there I replaced both sensors, made sure the harness was in good shape, siliconed the grommets, and replaced the intake manifold gaskets..

So I got it all back together and I am still getting the P0332 code. Man, what luck. So I do a little more investigating.. As per the GM troubleshooting flowchart, I:

- have ~95 Kohms resistance at BOTH sensors, (measured at the harness connector AND at the PCM harness connector)

- have continuity along the entire harness for both sensors

Everything looks normal.. So I start to suspect the PCM. Could it be?

So, I took apart the harness connector pigtail for the knock sensors, and swapped the wires, so the rear sensors was input for the front, and vice versa. If the computer still told me it was p0332, then its definitely the PCM.

Well it didnt! It threw a P0327 this time which is the front sensor. Good game, PCM. You win. Its the rear sensor still..

I have no qualms about opening it back up to fix the problem, but, I am not so sure what I am looking for. I know what you're thinking--- Replace the harness!! Well I would have if I had any issues with it but it was in "good" shape and I had good continuity/connection (maybe not good enough though?)

Even more baffling is that I am getting the exact same response/readings from both sensors. There is NO difference that I can tell. My cheap analog meter doesnt really register any output from the sensors (it must be too slight for the 10vac range) and with my digital meter, its bounces around at about .25 volts AC... (on both sensors)

Sure seems to me like I have a good harness and sensors.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Mike

Hummina · February 21, 2011

Great thread! Since youve all got your thinking caps on, ponder this:

2005 2500HD 6.0l 125K miles

Okay so one day I get DTC p0332.. rear knock sensor... After reading the TSB, I jump right in. Seemed like a slam dunk-- the rear sensor was corroded/rotten and so while in there I replaced both sensors, made sure the harness was in good shape, siliconed the grommets, and replaced the intake manifold gaskets..

So I got it all back together and I am still getting the P0332 code. Man, what luck. So I do a little more investigating.. As per the GM troubleshooting flowchart, I:

- have ~95 Kohms resistance at BOTH sensors, (measured at the harness connector AND at the PCM harness connector)

- have continuity along the entire harness for both sensors

Everything looks normal.. So I start to suspect the PCM. Could it be?

So, I took apart the harness connector pigtail for the knock sensors, and swapped the wires, so the rear sensors was input for the front, and vice versa. If the computer still told me it was p0332, then its definitely the PCM.

Well it didnt! It threw a P0327 this time which is the front sensor. Good game, PCM. You win. Its the rear sensor still..

I have no qualms about opening it back up to fix the problem, but, I am not so sure what I am looking for. I know what you're thinking--- Replace the harness!! Well I would have if I had any issues with it but it was in "good" shape and I had good continuity/connection (maybe not good enough though?)

Even more baffling is that I am getting the exact same response/readings from both sensors. There is NO difference that I can tell. My cheap analog meter doesnt really register any output from the sensors (it must be too slight for the 10vac range) and with my digital meter, its bounces around at about .25 volts AC... (on both sensors)

Sure seems to me like I have a good harness and sensors.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Mike

there's probably still corrosion in the block where the sensor screws in. the harness is only one wire per sensor, right? if so, the sensor is using the block as a ground, so the sensor and its threads may be clean, but the threads in the block have to be gunked up.

i still have yet to tear into mine, so it's only speculation, but if you'll be tearing it apart again, it's worth a look and cleaning.

breadfan · February 27, 2011

update: Fixed the problem.

The new sensor was defective! So yes, it does happen.

I had to remove the sensor to really test the output. With a sensitive DMM, you can easily see the output when you tap on the sensor with something (the other sensor works good for this)..

The "good sensor" was very consistent and gave good readings from .0025 to .0100 (approx) volts AC... the bad sensor had the correct resistance, but only put out about half the voltage, and it wouldnt sustain the output as well as the good sensor.. it would sometimes dip down to <.0015v and would have a hard time going higher, even with hard consistant knocking..

anyways it was a borg warner sensor from oreillys and they replaced it without issue.

Mike