P0332 Knock Sensor 2002 Sierra..help !

[qristofer]

I have not experienced any improvements since changing my knock sensors. The only good thing is not seeing the ses light constantly on. I cleaned the intake ports squeaky clean except the last two. On both the driver and the passenger side. For some reason the valves were sitting about quarter inch lower than the other six. While the carb cleaner would collect on the valves on the first six ports. On the back two it seemed like I would spray in there and it would just flow down into the cylinder head so I did not clean those two that well. The intake manifold was another story... The carbon had formed a thick layer which I decided not to mess with. I tried pressure washing but that didn't do it. So I just left it that way.

In all changing knock sensor was much easier than I had anticipated. The only two things I managed to break were the upper bolt on the throttle body, while trying to tighten it to the tourque spec listed on the chilton manual, and also the plastic vacuum hose broke trying to remove it from the top of the intake manifold....I just used a rubber hose in place of the broken vacuum line....Loved the steel intake gasket..It has hooks that hold it in place while the intake is installed.....Thanks for the first guy that came up with the idea of running the black silicone all around the grommets. Great idea...

[XYZ]

Anybody have the part number for the valley pan gasket???

[uniteam]

First of all, This is a great post and thank you very much for write all this helpful information ..

 

I have a 2002 Sierra 1500HD 6.0L with poor performance, very bad fuel milleage .. and now pinging .. I dont have any code or MIL ...

 

Connecting an ACTRON scanner I noticed that I have about 8 to 9 retard grades in timming when accelerate it ..

 

My engine has about 135K miles ..

 

Could I have a knock sensor issue without the Check engine light or Trouble code P0332 ???

 

Thanks for your help

[Planetnebur]

I just finished up this repair last saturday.

 

I installed 2 new sensors, wiring harness, rtv'd the harness boots, installed new intake gaskets, fuel rail upper and lower orings, and cleaned the piss out of the manifold and intake.

 

The truck has much more power and my gas mileage is back in the 15-17 range. It had dropped down to 13-14 average.

 

I shut the light off a few times, but it would come back on within a few weeks each time. After the repair, it took about 10 trips to reset the Check Engine Light, but when it went off, the truck was more powerful and responsive.

 

It is a very easy repair to do. Dont be afraid of pulling the intake. It is plastic and one piece. Disconnect the fuel line before the fuel rails and the fuel injectors/ralls can stay in the intake.

 

I spent 2 hours cleaning the intake and manifold ports, as well as the throttle body. There were 2 open ports but i went ahead and scrubbed them anyways. The truck ran rough for a few seconds then cleared up. There was definately some carb cleaner and carbon in those 2 cylinders but it cleaned right up.

 

It was about a 4 hour job. I really didnt need the wire harness or both knock sensors. The rear was all corroded but not as bad as some of the ones in earlier posts.

 

Total Cost - 192 and 4 hours of my time.

 

Sensors - 70

harness - 45

intake gaskets - 50

fuel injector orings (upper and lower) - 20

throttle body gasket - 7

 

This repair could really be done for one sensor and the intake gaskets, so 85 bucks...thats if your harness is good and you keep the fuel injectors and rails connected to the intake.

 

As far as special tools, only thing people may not have is a 22mm socket to take the knock sensors out. Everything else was very basic. 8mm and 10mm sockets, extension, pliers, phillips and flathead screwdrivers, and needle noses...

 

FYI if anyone needs a harness, ill sell it for 20 shipped to your door....

 

Hope this helps.

 

Mike

 

Did you ever sell the harness?

[slammed02chevy]

I have quite the conundrum going on here myself now. I have a 2002 5.3 L silverado 1500 that I have been having P0332 codes with. I replaced the rear sensor and it worked for a while before happening again. This time I decided while I had it all off I would change the front one as well and buy a new wiring harness. I cleared the codes and began driving it to go through the drive cycle. Now I'm getting two codes thrown. P0332 and P0327 (bank 2 and bank 1 knock sensors respectively). Does anyone have a suggestion about the error at this point? I unclipped the knock sensor electrical and tested the ohm reading on both terminals. One terminal reads 98 ohm (good) and the other doesn't read at all (0.L). Is that how it is supposed to read or am I seeing that one of the sensors is bad? Also the terminal reading 98 ohm is the terminal that leads to the front knock sensor so why am I even throwing the P0327 code??

 

Any help or insight would be appreciated!

[sierrahi]

Thanks to everybody's input on this topic. I just bought my truck, and I am happy to have found this site!

I did the sensor swap today. It was way easier than I thought. Not to mention how light those plastic intakes are!!

I used pinch off pliers for the coolant lines at the throttle body. I left the injectors and rails with the intake assembley. Next time I would remove the injectors so I could do a better job cleaning the intake, without fear of damaging them. I used a vaccuum to remove the truck load of sand, mud, wood, etc. I use "The Right Stuff" to seal the sensors, and I applied a light coating of grease to the gaskets. So far so good. Next job.... exhaust manifold has broken bolts : (

[Georgebaumann]

just read this and my 02 gmc sierra w/ a 4.8 l is getting the same code. i think im going to replace them too

[twavor]

This IS a great thread! I just replaced both knock sensors on my truck that I bought just last week and this thread has given me plenty of help, especially the bulletin that was posted on pp.1(I think)...my sensors were every bit as nasty as the ones on Adam's (alwcurlz) posts. I have the luxury of being able to build my own harness, and I wasn't even expecting to, but I would recommend to everyone that lives North of the Mason-Dixon line to else buy a new harness or build a new one before attempting to do this job yourself.

 

Travis

[jawzzy]

As others, this has turned out to be a GREAT thread for my 2001 1500 4.8L Kingcab Silverado!!!

1st, a little history....when towing my boat with rpms between 2400-2700, I would get the P0300 code.

After no luck myself, I let my GUY have a crack at it, and 10hrs + $500 dollars later, he concluded

it was the crankshaft sensors, and replaced them...it seemed to work at the time till the following

spring heading north with the boat again, and there it was, P0300, but this time ONLY at 2700 rpm

and 110kms per hour, but still there to this day. Now today I get the P0332 code which led me to

this thread, where I read about another with the same P0300 issues while towing, and ALL the

info on replacing the knock sensors....and btw, while fixing my heater core line, I washed the

engine down 3 days ago, and then this code...sound familiar

There has also been 2 other problems with my engine since day one of purchase (141,000kms):

first, it's always idled a bit rough while at stop lights and such, and they could never find a reason

(replaced wires, plugs, etc, but no change), and rough idles have also been mentioned in this thread

relating to bad knock sensors, so hoping this repair will fix that too;

and second, I've come to notice that some days my engine has pep, and other days it's lacking, almost

like 2 different engines...this becomes very apparent in 2 instances... 1 while towing, and the 2nd when

using my cruise control up a steep hill..sometimes it goes up and over the SAME bridge with no

kick-down to 3rd gear, and other times it doesn't, and I've ruled out wind, fuel octane, etc....it just

depends on the day, simple as that, and now I'm hoping it might come down to these knock sensors,

so we'll see once I get the job done.

 

 

 

so here I go...I've ordered 2 knock sensors 12589867 (Delphi AS10017 Ignition Knock Sensors) and

a Fel-Pro MS92211 Manifold Gasket Set from Amazon for $111 shipped, and 1 harness 12601822 from

eBay for $44 shipped. It will most likely be Xmas before I get to this since I've had to ship thru my

daughter in the USA to get them here in Canada, but in the meantime I want to be sure to have

EVERYTHING I need once I have all the parts here...SO, can someone provide me with the part

number for the fuel injector O ring kit and throttle body gasket that I will need (according to other

posts here), as well as the Valley Pan gasket part number?

Also, the special tool for removing the fuel line has been mentioned many times...is it

absolutely necessary, or are there other tools that will function as well....and if not, can someone

please provide a part number for it as well? And one more thought not yet expressed in this thread:

since this area is so prone to rust and water, what about rust proving it before reassembly with some

rust proofing spray...any thoughts on this????? THANKS for any and all help with this!!!!!

[jawzzy]

THANKS to DeePa, here is some info I've acquired:

 

The Orings come in boxes of 4. So you need 2 upper sets and 2 lower sets.

 

FEL-PRO Part # ES71192 Set

Upper set; Injectors to fuel rail

 

 

FEL-PRO Part # ES71190 Set

Lower set; Injectors to cylinder head

 

FEL-PRO Part # 61070

Throttle Body Gasket

 

I'm still looking for the Valley Pan gasket #, but I think I can find

it here locally cheap enough if needed, as welll as the fuel rail tool.

[Kroynon]

Just replaced the rear sensor on my truck today. I had pressure washed my engine last weekend in preparation to change out the intake gaskets due to a leak. I fixed the leak but started throwing a KS code the next day. Both sensors tested in range with an ohm meter before the gasket swap. Afterwards, one was reading low and inconsistant. Today I found the well for the rear KS filled with water and some corrosion on the sensor. I released the crimps and disassembled it finding corrosion inside as well. There is an O-ring seal inside but I guess it won't withstand being immersed in water for periods of time. By cleaning it I was able to restore it's original resistance reading. I think if you were cheap and careful, you could reuse it but.................Mine was $80 without having to wait for an online order to show up (I need my truck constantly) but now fixed. Great thread and really helpful, thanks.

[aaron8301]

+1,000,000 for this thread!

 

Did the fix yesterday, of course, rear sensor immersed in water and rusted out. Put it back together. Had to pull a camper home (did the fix in the folk's shop), got code cleared at Autozone a few miles down the road after the fix with the camper behind me.

 

Went 150 miles just fine (couldn't really judge performance with the camper behind me). Then SES light came back on. I could tell performance was once again lacking. Got home 200 miles after that, dropped camper off, and had another Autozone clear the code again. Performance is now the best it's ever been in the 18 months and 30,000 miles I've had the truck.

 

My question is, how has everyone else's experience been with the codes post-sensor replacement? I saw that one member said he had to have the code cleared several times before it finally went away for good. Why would that be? Since the knock sensors are working properly, wouldn't the computer be happy? I don't want to be getting a code and SES light all the time for a perfectly running engine, especially since when it throws the code, it retards timing quite a bit.

[Hummina]

Hey guys. just threw this code yesterday morning. i was doing a little searching on the subject and stumbled onto this thread. it is a wealth of information on the subject so i just ordered all of my parts and will be doing the repair in the near future, providing it's not 14* out again (truck doesn't fit in the garage )

 

i'm half contemplating throwing on a fast lsxrt, but don't really want to spend the money right now...

 

oh wells!

[GingersDad]

I have a 2002 gmc yukon 5.3 v8, the truck gave me the check engine light and it was the knock sensor codes, i took it to my mechanic and he said that it needs new knocking sensors, so he replaced the knocking sensors and wireing harness and intake gasket. he cleared the codes and the codes came back , he cleared the same codes and came back again . he check the wires going to the computer and he said that there was no voltge, and he said that computer is bad and needs to be replaced. so i replaced the computer and still the codes came back again.. i took it back to him and he took out the intake again and check if there was any mistakes but there was none. everything was installed right. he called me and told me that he had tryed eveything but doesnt know why its doing that. i dont know what else to do. Does everybody know why its doing that please send me a message.

 

 

josh

 

I have had the same problem with my 2001 Yukon XL 6.0... I took every thing apart as per the previous posts, cleaned everything up shiny new, replaced the Knock Sensors, Wiring Harness, RTVd the caps, new intake manifold gasket, valley cover gasket, valley cover grommets, valve cover gaskets (the old ones were leaking a bit...) got it all back together again... Seemed to work like a charm for about two weeks... Seemed like I have been getting better gas mileage and less pre-detonation knocks...

 

(My engine has always been a little knocky, esp when I accelerate under load... I live in Phoenix, AZ and they use methane in our gas... Whenever I take a trip out of the Valley and user different Gas the knocking seems to subside a bit... also summer time is worse, it was 109 and the trouble code came back along with the knocking)

 

I think that my sensors have been bad for many thousands of miles… I bought the truck new on 01 and I have always keeps a clean engine, pressure washing every three or four months… Too bad there isn't a big warning label that says don't pressure wash… Maybe I should sue GM… Oh right… they went bankrupt…

 

 

 

But now that all this work has been done I am still getting the P0332 (Rear knock under volt error)... I am really frustrated that this error code keeps coming up... It appears to get triggered on a deceleration, i.e accelerating over a hill and then letting off the gas, then the error codes comes on… I guess it could have been from the acceleration over the hill… I just don't know… Is there anything else to replace? (Don't say the vehicle…) Would this be the sign of a defective replacement knock sensor? Has anybody else had the DTC come back after replace the knock sensors?

 

 

 

Also when I had everything apart I found a tacky-oily-carbony-sooty residue all through out the inside of the intake manifold… pretty much going all the way to the inside plane of the throttle body… I cleaned the intake manifold off (pressure washing of course…) I also noticed this residue down the intake ports and by the intake valves… I wanted to take the heads off and get them cleaned and rebuilt at a machine shot but just could afford all that down time now…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am new to this forum. Found loads of useful information about the leak prone intake gaskets. Just replace them on two different trucks and found both to have the same tacky-oily-carbon like gunk in the intake manifold and intake ports of the heads. Does anyone have an idea of what would be causing this build up? I am going to start using a gas treatment, but maybe there is more going than bad East Coast Gas. I don't get any SES lights, just had a bad idle when the temps dropped below 20 degrees and the new intake gasket seems to have helped that problem.

[agg2001]

alright... i'm SO glad i found this. google FTW! haha.

 

anyhow, i'm no slouch when it comes to working on motors - i figure if i can change plugs on a trailblazer i can nearly do anything. that being said, i'm looking at gmgenuineparts.net and found in this thread the part number for the harness.

 

can someone tell me what the part number are for the parts i need? i cleared my code this morning, let it get all "monitors" back to ready. i got her inspected (dang sneaky cops) and on the ride back home after passing inspection, the light comes on again - shorlty after gunning it a bit. anyhow, i'm sick of this error, and just want to fix her. plus it looks like it would be a good idea to dig down in there a do a little cleaning anyhow.

 

so in short - what are all the part numbesr from one place? if gmgenuineparts.net is the "cheap place" then lay em on me. if not, just lemme know what i need to order and from where and i'll snap some shots along the way (for the SUPER noobs like myself that aren't afraid of tackling something that's prolly an all day job). thanks y'all!!

 

~Agg