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P0332 Knock Sensor 2002 Sierra..help !

cwildkats

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skiplaubach Enthusiast

skiplaubach

Posted
Posted

Ah, but there is one question that remains unanswered, where is the "opposite" end of the wire harness connection located vis-a-vis the manifold? Is there a simple connector? Is it possible to remove the existing harness from the wiring bundle? Any recommendations here? I could figger it out by opening the hood, I suppose, but what's the fun in that?

alwcurlz Enthusiast

alwcurlz

Posted
Posted
Ah, but there is one question that remains unanswered, where is the "opposite" end of the wire harness connection located vis-a-vis the manifold? Is there a simple connector? Is it possible to remove the existing harness from the wiring bundle? Any recommendations here? I could figger it out by opening the hood, I suppose, but what's the fun in that?

 

Back in the previous posts you'll see the picture of the knock sensor wire harness. It connects on the left side near the intake manifold.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
dnwhoop02 Enthusiast

dnwhoop02

Posted
Posted

'02 Sierra 1500 SLE, 150,000 mi

 

I currently have that code referring to the rear knock sensor (sooo glad I found this thread by the way!), so I ordered a replacement sensor online yesterday. Now that I read this thread I'm thinking I may have a few other things to replace once I get it all apart. Besides the wiring harness and intake gaskets, are there any other gaskets/grommets/whatever that really should be replaced? I've already paid for shipping once, so I'd like to kind of consolidate all these other miscellaneous items into no more than one more shipment if possible.

 

Thanks in advance...

jtupper Enthusiast

jtupper

Posted
Posted

I'm getting ready to do this repair myself. The parts have been ordered and I'm just waiting for them to arrive.

 

I went down to O'reilly yeserday to pick up my intake gasket and they had two different gaskets. One was plastic and one was metal with multiple EGR gaskets advertised as a problem solver kit. The counter guy couldn't really tell me much about it so I went with the plastic one at half the price of the problem solver. They wanted $75 for that one. Both were Fel-Pro.

 

For those that have already done this, can you tell me if your gasket was plastic or metal?

tflessner Enthusiast

tflessner

Posted
Posted
I'm getting ready to do this repair myself. The parts have been ordered and I'm just waiting for them to arrive.

 

I went down to O'reilly yeserday to pick up my intake gasket and they had two different gaskets. One was plastic and one was metal with multiple EGR gaskets advertised as a problem solver kit. The counter guy couldn't really tell me much about it so I went with the plastic one at half the price of the problem solver. They wanted $75 for that one. Both were Fel-Pro.

 

For those that have already done this, can you tell me if your gasket was plastic or metal?

 

 

I'm replacing my knock sensors this weekend.

 

Parts I have:

FEL-PRO intake gasket Part #MS92211 $32.79 + shipping (It's plastic) from Rockauto.com

GM Knock Sensor Harness & Upper Grommets Part#12601822 $43.60 +shipping - from Paceperformance

Two knock sensors from Advance Auto. about $41 each.

 

Thank God for this GM-Trucks forum, it's saved me $1,000's of dollars in repairs by helping me do it myself!!

 

Replaced the intermediate steering shaft last weekend which solved the clunking sound. Got some new tires put on yesterday. Changing the oil and giving it a wax job next weekend

 

It's going to be a NEW pickup when I'm done! :D

  • 3 weeks later...
dnwhoop02 Enthusiast

dnwhoop02

Posted
Posted

In the service manual, the removal procedure for the intake manifold starts off with removing the fuel rails. When removing the fuel rails, it says to discard all the O-rings from the injectors and replace with new ones, which seems like a pain.

 

Do you really have to remove the fuel rails before removing the intake manifold, or could you just remove the manifold and the fuel rails together as one piece?

jtupper Enthusiast

jtupper

Posted
Posted
In the service manual, the removal procedure for the intake manifold starts off with removing the fuel rails. When removing the fuel rails, it says to discard all the O-rings from the injectors and replace with new ones, which seems like a pain.

 

Do you really have to remove the fuel rails before removing the intake manifold, or could you just remove the manifold and the fuel rails together as one piece?

You can take it off as an entire assembly. You will need to disconnect the electrical connection for each injector and note which connector it goes to. You will also need to disconnect both fuel lines. I tried to disconnect the injectors but it was giving me fits and I was afraid I was going to mess one up. Personally, I think it was easier to just pull the fuel rails. I put sone Nylog around each o-ring before I reinstalled the fuel rails and they popped right in.

dnwhoop02 Enthusiast

dnwhoop02

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the help! Once I got the proper tools, removing the fuel rails wasn't as big of a deal.

 

More questions....

The inside of the intake ports in the heads are lined with a thick layer of black crap... is it worth trying to clean that out? If so, do ya'll have any ideas on how to clean that crap off without dropping a bunch of it down inside the heads? I already wiped a little of it off, and I'm afraid some of it may have already fallen down in there.... how critical is it that I get that out? Can I just use compressed air to try and blow it out, or just don't worry about it or what?

jtupper Enthusiast

jtupper

Posted
Posted

For the intake manififold, absolutely. I had the same concerns as you when I did mine. I used a whold can of intake cleaner trying to clean mine. Another member posted that they used about a half dozen cans and a bottle brush to clean theirs. I wish I would have thought of that.

 

As for the intake ports on the heads, I will leave that question for someone more knowledgable. I stuffed rags in my intake ports so that nothing would fall down in there. I didn't do anything except spray a little intake cleaner in them to clean them up a little. I was concerned that I would knock a chunk of carbon off in the heads and screw something up. Here is a link to the thread I started.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102790

dnwhoop02 Enthusiast

dnwhoop02

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the input, and the link. Sounds like you had the same concerns...

 

I wonder how much of that junk would have to fall into the cylinder to cause damage... I asked a friend of mine about this last night and he was saying that something as tiny as brake dust in the cylinder can ruin it (which I found very hard to believe)

  • 1 month later...
Z71Silverado Enthusiast

Z71Silverado

Posted
Posted

this is for all the guys that did this on their own truck. how did you clean all the dirt etc....off without getting anything inside the engine? did you use water or scrap is off with a puddy knife?

 

also, i found these on ebay. this is what the sensors should look like correct? i live quite far away from stores and getting all the parts shipped to my home is very convenient to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-KNOCK-S...sQ5fAccessories

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
this is for all the guys that did this on their own truck. how did you clean all the dirt etc....off without getting anything inside the engine? did you use water or scrap is off with a puddy knife?

 

also, i found these on ebay. this is what the sensors should look like correct? i live quite far away from stores and getting all the parts shipped to my home is very convenient to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-KNOCK-S...sQ5fAccessories

 

 

Is he selling used sensors? Never mentions new anywhere.

 

Try rockauto.com too.

  • 3 weeks later...
Z71Silverado Enthusiast

Z71Silverado

Posted
Posted

installed everything yesterday guys. i can't believe what a difference. it's like a totally different truck. one of the sensors was fine and the other was rusty as shit. hopefully the silicone with prevent them from failing again.

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