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Inline Fuse


Truckin2003

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Posted
nobody?

 

One possible issue is that fusible links and fuses are designed to handle current differently. Small spikes in amperage pop a fuse and fusible links are designed to slow blow after sustained power overages. Because of that, I'd suggest replacing a fusible link with the same.

Posted

^^^ x2 ^^^

 

I wouldn't recommend cheap glass fuses like those, either. I've had lots of problems with AGU fuses breaking and falling apart or the end caps getting so hot that they melt the fuse holder. Blade (Maxi, ATC, etc.) or ANL fuses are much better IMO.

Posted

ok, next question...

 

all of the new replacement fusible links seem to be on a much smaller gauge wiring than the original factory wiring.

 

anybody know where i can get a fusible link to install on a 6ga wire??? is there only one kind of fusible link or is there different amp ratings? what size do i need if there is.

 

 

sorry for all of the questions i just dont wanna burn my truck to the ground

Posted
ok, next question...

 

all of the new replacement fusible links seem to be on a much smaller gauge wiring than the original factory wiring.

 

anybody know where i can get a fusible link to install on a 6ga wire??? is there only one kind of fusible link or is there different amp ratings? what size do i need if there is.

 

 

sorry for all of the questions i just dont wanna burn my truck to the ground

 

I had to hook up an inverter to my 2nd battery. Needed to use 00 welding cable to handle the 150 amp draws. Went to NAPA.

They have a 2 part system. One is the fuse holder. You buy this to fit the size wire you are using. The 2nd is the fuse itself.

That fits into the holder and you get that in the amps you need.

They also had the 2 head battery terminals to hook up the new wire to the battery post.

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