Jump to content

Brake Repair Needed


mcin0003

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've been replacing all of hte components on my 03 GMC sierra 4x4. The problem started with my front brakes jamming. I've since replaced all of the rotors, calipers and the master cylinder. Everything seemed to be working fine for few weeks but the problem is resurfaceing. Is there some other part control valve or module that needs to be repaired?

 

Thnks

Posted

You really should introduce yourself before bombarding us with ?'s. You may want to look at the check valve. :dunno: Welcome to the forum :hitit:

Posted

Please explain in more detail, what JAMMING means.

Does it have ABS?

If it does have ABS... check all the wiring and connectors going to the sensors on the hubs.

Does it have any warning lights on the dash illuminated?

Have you checked the little rubber hoses that go from the metal line to the caliper?

I have had them go bad internally, and a little piece of rubber drops down inside the rubber line and acts like a CHECK VALVE. You can apply the brakes... but they won't release properly.

 

Oh... BTW... Welcome to the forum.

Posted
Please explain in more detail, what JAMMING means.

Does it have ABS?

If it does have ABS... check all the wiring and connectors going to the sensors on the hubs.

Does it have any warning lights on the dash illuminated?

Have you checked the little rubber hoses that go from the metal line to the caliper?

I have had them go bad internally, and a little piece of rubber drops down inside the rubber line and acts like a CHECK VALVE. You can apply the brakes... but they won't release properly.

 

Oh... BTW... Welcome to the forum.

Thank you for the welcome.

 

It has ABS but there aren't any warning lights or codes that pop up. The jamming I'm refering to is the caliber is not releasing properly and both the rotor and the pads are heating up and burning. It doesn't happen on al wheels, it just seems to be the front brakes and lately it seems to be the left (drivers) side.

 

When I look into the engin compartment, just below the master sylinder is a little aluminum block where the brake line and a brake sensor attache. Is this some sort of control block or check valve?

 

mcin0003

Posted

I am :hitit: a brake mechanic... just relating what fixed some of the problems I have had down thru the years.

 

If it is just the left drivers side that is binding up... I would first replace the little rubber hose that runs from the metal brake line to the top of the caliper.

 

If that don't help... then I would check out the silver valve that all of the brake lines connect to... by the master cylinder.

 

That valve is called (I think) the PROPORTIONING VALVE.

Posted
I am :hitit: a brake mechanic... just relating what fixed some of the problems I have had down thru the years.

 

If it is just the left drivers side that is binding up... I would first replace the little rubber hose that runs from the metal brake line to the top of the caliper.

 

If that don't help... then I would check out the silver valve that all of the brake lines connect to... by the master cylinder.

 

That valve is called (I think) the PROPORTIONING VALVE.

I'll try that.

 

Thanks.

Posted

You may be able to check it out and narrow down your problem....

Jack up the front wheels.. support the truck on stands so it will be safe and stable...

 

Mash and release the brakes.. then see which wheel turns easy and which one don't.

If one wheel don't want to turn... open the bleeder screw on that caliper.

If it then turns... then SOMETHING is keeping the pressure from releasing and the fluid from going back to the master cylinder.

 

Mash and release the brakes again... this time loosen the fitting on the rubber line connecting to the caliper. If the wheel now turns.. it is NOT the caliper.

Mash and release the brakes again. This time loosen the fitting where the rubber line connects to the metal line. If it now turns easy... it IS NOT the rubber line. If it still don't want to turn... it IS the rubber line.

 

To check it a different way....Mash and release the brakes again... this time loosen the fitting where it connects to the valve by the master cylinder. If it still don't want to turn... it is the rubber line.

 

If all of these checks allow the wheel to turn easy... it is probably the valve.

 

This way you can narrow down WHERE the malfunction is.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...