Jump to content

Service 4wd


Recommended Posts

Posted

This morning the truck showed a service 4wd error and the led on the 4wd switch was out. Didn't try to take it out of 2wd in case there was a problem. Well went out later today and drove the truck and no error this time, led on 4x4 switch working and shifted into 4x4 ok.

 

I borrowed an Actron cp9180 scanner, and it didn't pull any codes. I'm fairly sure this model will pull the C chassis codes because it's a higher end model. I'm somewhat hoping the problem will reappear so I can troubleshoot and fix. Anyone had intermitent 4wd service issues?

Posted

I've read on here that several issues can cause this. The most common problem seems to be the push-button switch in the dash.

 

However, in the case of my 2005 Tahoe, the problem was the sensor in the encoder motor assembly on the transfer case. It started out similar to what you're describing. Sometimes I would come out in the morning and the LED would say the transfer case was in neutral or 4-Lo, or it wouldn't be lit at all. I let it go for a long time because I could still get it back in to 2-Hi, but eventually it kept shifting itself into neutral while I was driving. The sensor was ~$70 and it took about an hour to change.

Posted
I've read on here that several issues can cause this. The most common problem seems to be the push-button switch in the dash.

 

However, in the case of my 2005 Tahoe, the problem was the sensor in the encoder motor assembly on the transfer case. It started out similar to what you're describing. Sometimes I would come out in the morning and the LED would say the transfer case was in neutral or 4-Lo, or it wouldn't be lit at all. I let it go for a long time because I could still get it back in to 2-Hi, but eventually it kept shifting itself into neutral while I was driving. The sensor was ~$70 and it took about an hour to change.

 

I searched before posting and read about the switch failures and other causes, the problem is that the code went away. I was just checking to see if anyone else had experienced intermitent errors, and if there was a way to log the error. I just got through scanning again, and it passed without codes.

Posted

FWIW, mine didn't show any codes with my hand-held OBD-II scanner either. OnStar could only tell me that there was a problem with my 4WD system. A better scanner probably would have picked something up. I was "lucky" because the warranty history from before I bought the truck showed that this particular sensor had failed four times before, so I took a wild guess at the problem.

Posted
FWIW, mine didn't show any codes with my hand-held OBD-II scanner either. OnStar could only tell me that there was a problem with my 4WD system. A better scanner probably would have picked something up. I was "lucky" because the warranty history from before I bought the truck showed that this particular sensor had failed four times before, so I took a wild guess at the problem.

 

The scanner I borrowed is an Actron cp9180, which should pickup the Chassis codes. It lists the Chassis codes in it's table for what its worth.

 

Drove the truck this morning and problem still hasn't come back...

Posted

My light has come on 3 or 4 times in the year I've owned the truck. It always goes away on the next start up. Of course the truck has no way of telling you if the 4WD is activated anyway, so maybe it doesn't matter . . .

 

I'd like to get all of GM's Electrical Engineers in a room and punch each one in the face. :)

Posted

The code is stored, it doesn't go away. Your Actron can't read transmission trouble codes.

 

For 2003 the 2 most common causes are the switch and a programming glitch. There is a tsb for the programming.

Posted

I had the same thing happen on one of the colder days this winter. No error codes, I did a search here and found a post discussing a communications failure that is corrected by pulling a fuse under the hood. Pulled the fuse as directed for 30 seconds and was back in business. I don't remember the exact fuse but do a search, It also referenced a TSB. Mine was not the switch, I pulled that and it looked fine.

Posted

That's a good point... I don't know if the programming glitch leaves a code, I guess it makes sense that it wouldn't.

 

4wd Codes caused by hardware failures do not go away though, just to clarify that.

 

The fuse method often works, and is definitly worth a try- the price is right!

Posted
The code is stored, it doesn't go away. Your Actron can't read transmission trouble codes.

 

For 2003 the 2 most common causes are the switch and a programming glitch. There is a tsb for the programming.

 

Yeah, just called up Actron and they loaded the code reference in the scanner, but it can't read the codes from the cpu. So looks like I may be making a trip to the dealer for a code scan.

 

I did an initial search for the tsb with no luck, you don't have any more info on the programming tsb handy do you?

Posted

I'll see if I can find it when I get home from work tonight. If you don't find it, and I don't post later, send me a PM to remind me.

Posted

Also you don't have to go to the dealer. Most good scanners ($$$$) can read it, call around - I'm sure some local shops can pull the code for you

 

I use a Snap-On Modus... Which isn't exactly the newest scanner on the market anymore

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,847
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    FiLo
    Newest Member
    FiLo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 654 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...