Jump to content

S10 Blazer Just Quit Running...

xzz0195

Recommended Posts

xzz0195 Enthusiast

xzz0195

Posted
Posted

Have an older S10 Blazer with the V6 vortec.

Today it just stopped no warning etc. while my daughter was driving it down the road. It has enough electricity because it turns over just fine, it just won't restart.

 

Hooked up OBD2 Scan tool and only read two codes:

P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)

P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit

 

I don't believe either of these two issues is root cause or necessarily related.

 

Suspect Fuel delivery system but am looking for a few suggestions.

jro909 Senior Enthusiast

jro909

Posted
Posted

turn the ignitin to run(the setting just before it turns the motor over) and listen for this mechanical buzzing from the fuel tank....thats the fuel pump sending fuel to the injectors...if you hear nothing, try tapping the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and see if it starts then....if it does your fuel pump is probably shot....p.s the rubber mallet trick dosen't always work

xzz0195 Enthusiast

xzz0195

Posted
  • Author
Posted
turn the ignitin to run(the setting just before it turns the motor over) and listen for this mechanical buzzing from the fuel tank....thats the fuel pump sending fuel to the injectors...if you hear nothing, try tapping the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and see if it starts then....if it does your fuel pump is probably shot....p.s the rubber mallet trick dosen't always work

 

 

That's what it is, a bad Fuel Pump!

Tx!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Hwy62So New Member

Hwy62So

Posted
Posted

My '93 Jimmy did the same thing. It has a W series Vortec CPI fuel injected engine, with a 4 speed automatic trans. I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and relay. It would turn over but wouldn't start. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. It still would not start. Replaced the MAP sensor and it started. It started easy and idled well, so I tried to take it for a drive. When I gave it gas it "spit", "poped", and would not go. It will crank easy and idle well, but will not run with normal driving speed. It will run if you stomp it to the floor as long as you hold it there. As soon as you let up it goes back to "spitting" and "poping". I also changed the coil, and most of the rubber vacuum hoses. It showes no codes, and runs the same with 2 other computers in it. Do you or anyone know what is causing this? Any information would be very helpful.

Hwy62so

Kodiak450 Senior Enthusiast

Kodiak450

Posted
Posted

I remember we got a new fuel pump in our 95 S-10 Blazer and about 2 months later the blazer stalled out right as my wife was getting off the highway for work. It would crank, but would not start. So I suspected a failed fuel pump even though a new one was put in about 2 months or less prrior to the stall out. So we had it towed to the shop that put the fuel pump in, and after it was unloaded off the flat bed, it started up with no problems. So we decided to leave it at the shop so they can figure out what was casuign it to stall and not start, it wasn't the first time that happened. So it was at the shop for good 2 months and started on them every day and no bad codes came up. So I finally picked it up and it has started everytime every since then. I suspect perhaps a bad coil pack, or one that is on it's way out, but it's been over a year since the stall occurred and has yet to stall out again.

wierdo124 Enthusiast

wierdo124

Posted
Posted
My '93 Jimmy did the same thing. It has a W series Vortec CPI fuel injected engine, with a 4 speed automatic trans. I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and relay. It would turn over but wouldn't start. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. It still would not start. Replaced the MAP sensor and it started. It started easy and idled well, so I tried to take it for a drive. When I gave it gas it "spit", "poped", and would not go. It will crank easy and idle well, but will not run with normal driving speed. It will run if you stomp it to the floor as long as you hold it there. As soon as you let up it goes back to "spitting" and "poping". I also changed the coil, and most of the rubber vacuum hoses. It showes no codes, and runs the same with 2 other computers in it. Do you or anyone know what is causing this? Any information would be very helpful.

Hwy62so

That honestly sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere to me.

 

I remember we got a new fuel pump in our 95 S-10 Blazer and about 2 months later the blazer stalled out right as my wife was getting off the highway for work. It would crank, but would not start. So I suspected a failed fuel pump even though a new one was put in about 2 months or less prrior to the stall out. So we had it towed to the shop that put the fuel pump in, and after it was unloaded off the flat bed, it started up with no problems. So we decided to leave it at the shop so they can figure out what was casuign it to stall and not start, it wasn't the first time that happened. So it was at the shop for good 2 months and started on them every day and no bad codes came up. So I finally picked it up and it has started everytime every since then. I suspect perhaps a bad coil pack, or one that is on it's way out, but it's been over a year since the stall occurred and has yet to stall out again.

Those engines only have one coil - highly doubtful that would cause that anyway. TBH with that i'd suspect some sort of electrical gremlin. Or maybe an intermittent sensor issue...probably coolant temp, air temp, or MAF - these engines won't run for beans without those three. They'll run okay with out a MAP.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By newdude · Posted

      You need a better code reader/scanner.  You are missing codes.  Did the dealer give you a copy of the SAVI scan from that visit?     If the fluid hasn't been changed, change it.  Shudder will likely go away.  
    • newdude
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By newdude · Posted

      TLDR to my other post...   Hard. Pass.  Too many what ifs.     Are you set on a 3.0 Duramax?  Have you considered anything not GM just in case?  If you don't have to have a pickup, lots of other options for $27,000 out there.   
    • newdude
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By newdude · Posted

      I see some red flags.   - No mention in the Carfax if the oil pump belt was changed.  LM2s had a 150,000mi service interval, and its got 164,245mi on it.  So right out the gate it needs about $3000-3500 for that to be done before driving it another 150,000mi.  Belt is at the rear of the engine.     - If something happens to the transmission valve body, the special coverage is expired by mileage.  That will likely be an out of pocket expense, with zero or near zero GM participation if something happened even though its in by time.   - 2020 LM2s seem to need timing chains after 80,000mi at some point.  They fixed this end of 2020/starting 2021 model year engines.  They will usually set a P0016 I think?  There is another $8000-10,000 if it needs a chain.  The main chain is at the back, secondary at the front so the pump belt would be done at the same time if it needed chains.     - Long oil change intervals.  7,000-8,000mi on average, probably close to 0% or perhaps to or beyond 0% on the OLM.  Lots of them not at the dealer which makes me wonder how much of the oil ran through that truck was the proper Dexos D rated 0w20 oil and not just gas engine 0w20, which is not the same at all.     - Long fuel filter changes, again likely taking the fuel filter life to 0% or more.  First one went 28,603, second was done 43,094 miles later at 71,697, from there another 46,452mi to 118,149mi, and then the most recent one 37,026mi later at 155,175mi.  So counting its original fuel filter, its had only 4 fuel filters on it.  No bueno IMO.         Good news?    - It has had only two warranty trips to the dealer.  The first free service (end of December 2020 on the Carfax), and the transmission reprogram recall (end of August 2025 on the Carfax).     - Truck did a LOT of moving, so that might explain the lack of emissions related repairs like bad NOX sensors, bad exhaust temp sensors, bad glow plugs, etc.         The "emissions system checked" could just be how something was flagged for Carfax.  GM dealers have to do SAVI reports for warranty repair orders so they scan the truck.  So its possible that is there for that?  
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you, @Z45!   NOTE - No all repair shop/Dealers reports to Carfax   That is my main concern.  The CARFAX looks way too clean for a 6 year old anything with 164,245 miles.  Even something known for reliability (like many Toyotas) typically has a lot more replaced, like a Nav screen, interior trim, shock/strut, or brake pads.  And surely the last set of tires (installed at ~58k miles) would be bald unless those were all highway miles.   I'm tempted to pay a local dealer to look up the VIN, but am not sure if that will be worthwhile.  Last time I did this, it was 100% useless, and I felt scammed - they noted the bumper was replaced years ago and that's it.  A 5-year old could spot the accident damage, even though nothing was on the CARFAX.   After giving the dealer a call, the truck may have a hard shift, but they have to verify with their mechanic if that's even a concern.  And I've test driven about a dozen of these now, many near Chicago, and half the trucks shift hard/odd at all throttle positions.  The ones with aftermarket lifts/larger tires shift terrible, and 3 stock trucks shifted so violently I thought the transmission valve body was going out.   At this point I'm conflicted, as I need a vehicle, and am coming up short locally.  Northern trucks in this price range tend to have either multiple owners, a lot of mods (lifts/oversized tires without re-gearing), and are generally in rougher shape.   If this truck showed up in your neighborhood for $27k and you had to purchase it sight-unseen, with the possibility of needing a 10L80 rebuild, torque converter, or rear end - would you do it?  I'm convinced most of the 10L80 trucks I test drove are broken, they can't all shift so bad, with massive flares/slipping/lurching and mis-matched downshifts like a teen driver learning stick.
    • Griffin Donovan
      2027 GMC Sierra Spot Shots + Undisguised Interior (BIG Changes!)

      By Griffin Donovan · Posted

      From the spy shots, the front end does look like it's borrowing some styling cues from the Canyon. I'm more interested in the powertrain news than the screens though. If the 3.0 diesel survives into the next generation, that alone will keep a lot of current owners interested.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...