Jump to content

Castech Cylinder Heads


Recommended Posts

Posted

 

03GMCSierraHeads017.jpg03GMCSierraHeads018.jpg03GMCSierraHeads019.jpg03GMCSierraHeads021.jpg03GMCSierraHeads022.jpg03GMCSierraHeads024.jpg03GMCSierraHeads026.jpg03GMCSierraHeads028.jpg03GMCSierraHeads030.jpg03GMCSierraHeads034.jpg03GMCSierraHeads035.jpg03GMCSierraHeads037.jpg03GMCSierraHeads038.jpg03GMCSierraHeads039.jpg03GMCSierraHeads040.jpgheaders.pngheaders2.pnghey guys, just figured i would post my personal experience with bad casting on my sierra heads to inform and hopefully help someone out that might run into the same issue. my truck is an 03 gmc sierra 5.3. bought it with 45k in 2007. i started to notice coolant was dissapearing and couldnt figure it out so i just kept topping it off. this went on for about 6 months untill one day i changed my oil and noticed it was a little chunky and realized something was wrong. i started doing research and found out that gm had some heads casted by CASTECH and they were cracking where the head bolts to the block. i took off my valve covers and sure enough...behind all the gunk and sludge...was the CASTECH stamp and there was a puddle of coolant sitting where the head studs were. i buttoned it back up and called the gm dealer where i purchased the truck. they told me that they needed to verify it which cost me $100, even though i knew what the problem was. they got back to me like 2 weeks later and said they would pay 10% of the $2800 bill. i told them that was obsurd considering a cylinder head is not a wear part and should not go bad. i got on the phone with gm directly and they said they know about the issue but they couldnt do anything about it. needless to say i was very frustrated. i had to way my options. i am 24 years old with a new to me truck low miles and a hefty payment. i dont have much money but am a pretty good mechanic and i love my truck. so i guess its obvious. i purchased refurbrished heads off ebay from a machine shop in texas who fixes the heads and re sells them. it cost me 440 shipped for new heads fully loaded. all i had to do was package mine up and ship them back. gaskets were another 300 and i decided to throw some headers on it. when i got my new heads they were mint...so i tore them appart and ported them...18 hours later i put them on with headers...another 16 hours...yes this is a long time but keep in mind i scrubbed and thoughroughly cleened EVERYTHING. took a while but was well worth it. i ran some castrol gtx through it for 1000 miles and flushed that out and now all i run is royal purple with a mobile 1 filter...i am a firm believer in that stuff....truck runs great and really rips now that its all clean in there and im sure the porting and headers help too...i hope this might help some people. if you have some mechanical aptitude its not that bad of a job just time consuming and the head bolts are a b to torque especially the last 45 degree turn. just take your time and make sure its done right.i will try to post some pics.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Those heads come with the rockers and rods as well?

 

How did you adjust the rockers? 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn after touching the rods?

 

 

What brand headers and how much were they?

Posted

Dang, I hope my truck doesn't have this issue. '04 5.3 80k miles. About 6 months ago I started loosing some coolant, asked the dealership about it and they recommended a GM seal tab in the coolant system. Hasn't lost any since. I still worry about those heads though. I wonder what the best option would be for somebody uncomfortable working on the motor themselves? You have to wonder if a motor went 100,000 miles before having serious problems, how much money would you want to put into it?

Posted
Those heads come with the rockers and rods as well?

 

How did you adjust the rockers? 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn after touching the rods?

 

 

What brand headers and how much were they?

 

 

They are hydraulic lifters, no rocker adjustment.

Posted

Lots of oil sludge in that one pic :lol: Was that caused by the leak or just not changing oil at recommended intervals?

 

Our shop has seen a number of Chevy and GMC pickups and vans with a crack around the center head bolt. We don't try to fix the heads at all as it's quicker to get replacement heads and get the vehicle back in service either the same day or overnight. The local Chevy/GMC dealer keeps a supply of replacement heads in stock. And we replace both heads even if just one has the typical crack.

 

I believe there is a TSB out on this problem. Recommending the sealing tabs sounds like a cop-out. There can also be cracks around the combustion chamber so have a block test done to see if there are combustion gasses in the coolant.

 

I know we get a good deal from the dealer on a pair of replacement heads so maybe GM is trying to help out with repair costs. It's interesting that we have found the replacement heads we get are Castech's. Hopefully these new castings have fixed the weak point around that one bolt.

Posted
Lots of oil sludge in that one pic :lol: Was that caused by the leak or just not changing oil at recommended intervals?

 

Our shop has seen a number of Chevy and GMC pickups and vans with a crack around the center head bolt. We don't try to fix the heads at all as it's quicker to get replacement heads and get the vehicle back in service either the same day or overnight. The local Chevy/GMC dealer keeps a supply of replacement heads in stock. And we replace both heads even if just one has the typical crack.

 

I believe there is a TSB out on this problem. Recommending the sealing tabs sounds like a cop-out. There can also be cracks around the combustion chamber so have a block test done to see if there are combustion gasses in the coolant.

 

I know we get a good deal from the dealer on a pair of replacement heads so maybe GM is trying to help out with repair costs. It's interesting that we have found the replacement heads we get are Castech's. Hopefully these new castings have fixed the weak point around that one bolt.

I would certainly expect the new heads to be Castech's. I'm sure that GM made them correct the issue and supply them with a number of replacement heads (probably at no cost) or lose their contract plus be sued for non-performance.

 

I would feel much more comfortable with new heads from Castech then someone taking the defective heads, repairing them and reselling those same defective heads. Don't get me wrong, they may do a great job of repairing the defective heads....... I just wouldn't feel good about it.

Posted

When did GM stop using Castech heads? Were they installed in 2006 5.3 liter models? And if so, only some trucks got them? Is there any way to track this down by the VIN or the engine serial number? Are all Castech heads defective? If not, what percentage?

Posted
When did GM stop using Castech heads? Were they installed in 2006 5.3 liter models? And if so, only some trucks got them? Is there any way to track this down by the VIN or the engine serial number? Are all Castech heads defective? If not, what percentage?

You're in the range period. Pull the cover and begin looking for the casting marks. That's how it's done.

Posted
What do these markings look like and where are they located??

 

Click on the link in post #8. It shows you exactly.

Posted
What do these markings look like and where are they located??

 

Click on the link in post #8. It shows you exactly.

 

 

Thanks.

Posted
Those heads come with the rockers and rods as well?

 

How did you adjust the rockers? 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn after touching the rods?

 

 

What brand headers and how much were they?

 

 

the heads came with valves and springs...rockers and rods were just cleaned up and re used....there are no adjustment with these rockers just bolt em down...there is a special way to torque them that is explained in the chilton manual...the headers are pacesetters that i ceramic coated myself....i paid 200 for headers and 20 for the ceramic vht paint....that stuff really works...cleaned them up well 2 coats high temp primer and 3 coats high temp ceramic holding up suprisingly well.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 874 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...