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Abs Light


383

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The abs light and brake light come on about 75% of the

time on my '01 Tahoe. The code is CO265 (EBCM relay circuit).

Any ideas?

Edited by 383
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I've had the ABS and Brake light coming on and off for about 2 years in my 2001 Silverado 2500HD. I had the code read, did some research, messed around with all of those body/frame grounds to no avail, and eventually decided not to fix it immediately since the brakes still worked fine. I'm now trying to sell the truck, so I decided to go through with this DIY fix. It was surprisingly easy to do after watching the video and reading the additional input from the members here. The bolts are a little difficult to locate when the module is under the truck, but I just felt my way around blindly and was able to eventually get them out. One point that I would like to make is that the largest of the electrical connectors has a small red clip that must be pulled downward to unlock the connector. It took me a couple minutes to figure that out...

 

I think the worst part of the project is cutting the old sealant and prying the lid off. It did seem like I was going to destroy the circuit card(by pulling it out with the lid...), but sure enough, the white adhesive that glues the card to the lid eventually let go, and voila! I wasn't able to see any bad solder joints by visual inspection, so I went ahead and re-soldered the joints pointed out in the video, and a few more of the larger joints for good measure. I did notice that there was a pretty small amount of solder in the joints, once it went liquidous that was obvious. I just added more solder material to the joints, being careful not to short the joints out to any others nearby.

 

The re-install was pretty painless after being familiar with the bolt pattern. It's been a few days now, and no lights! It was raining yesterday, so I had an opportunity to test out the ABS. It seemed to function perfectly. This is an awesome thread! The $20 I spent on a soldering kit was way better that sending it out for repair or buying a new unit!

Edited by jsells_n
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Just had to create an account to tell you guys thanks. I have a 2000 GMC Yukon that had the ABS light coming on and I pulled off the EBCM last night and re-soldered the pins. I had it off and back in, in less than an hour. The wife drove it all day today and the light never came on! It would come on on every trip before. I will keep you posted on how long it lasts.

 

Thanks again!

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I also just created an account to tell my story as well. I have a 2001 Suburban. Same as most of you, had the intermittent abs / brake lights come on, sometimes right away after starting, sometimes after 20 miles of driving. Restarting the engine would turn them off until next time. I did notice it that they would come on sometimes going over a bump.

 

I took it to the parts store, who lent me a code reader + abs, and it threw 6 codes! So I cleared them all, drove it until the lights turned on, and had one code: CO265

 

After some research over a year ago, I cleaned the ground and it fixed nothing. I thought about wheel sensors, but never changed them. After skidding on wet pavement with a trailer the other day, I needed to fix this.

 

Stumbled on this thread and thought I'd try the repair in the video. If you can take the 12 minutes to watch the slow paced, monster-music-in-the-background video, you will find it to be WELL WORTH IT!

 

The ABS control module is under the driver's side door, and you have to take the top part off with the torx driver. You could disconnect brake lines and take the whole works off, but I took only the control module off. There is VERY LOW CLEARANCE up there, I had to use a 1/4 in. ratchet with a 1/4 inch socket, hooked up to the torx bit. You will not be able to get a screwdriver type one in there! In fact 2 of the 4 screws I had to go by feeling, couldn't even see them. The screws will be from the top down. Be VERY CAREFUL and use the PROPER SIZE torx bit! I used one size smaller first and rounded out the head on one screw. That was the WORST PART of the job, I had to take a tiny file and work a slot in the screw for a flathead screwdriver. Took an hour!

 

Once it's out, it gets easier. The only thing to add to the video, in addition to cutting the seal with a knife (only stick your razor blade out about a quarter inch, or you may damage the circuit board), on mine I had to take 6 more torx screws out before cutting that seal. When putting it back together I just used RTV gasket maker, not sure if that was ok or not...

 

But the rest you see in the video, solder those joints and anything else that has the tiniest hairline cracks (a magnifying glass helps).

 

Put it back together and NO LIGHT SO FAR!!

 

I have one question left... to the guy who made the video... WHERE CAN I SEND MY MONEY?? Thank you!

 

One thing I disagree with him on: I wouldn't call the $100-$150 rebuild a "hustle", that's probably what I would charge someone else to do the repair.... but am happy to have done it myself!

Edited by Coyote25
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Had to register to give my 2 cents.

 

I recently bought a used 01 suburban with a few issues, including c0265 abs code. Of course, I used the dash lights to drive down the price - I got a good deal...because I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty.

 

So, I followed the posted video, along with a similar vid. One problem I have is some misinformation and some innacurate information. I wanted to add this info because I had a relatively easy time after reading what everyone had to say.

 

Before you start, use some compressed air or blower on your compressor or you'll have dirt falling in your face (I wish I had done this)

 

Torx bits: t20 and t8 (not t10)

 

Don't strip the heads, use pb blaster on the t20 heads a few minutes before turning them. Don't use pb blaster on the t8 heads. Just be gentle.

 

The white stuff inside isn't adhesive, its silicone thermal paste - get it at an electronics or computer parts store (its cheap)

 

My only cost was the long shaft torx drivers. After I replace the intake manifold gasket and water pump - my good deal will become a great deal.

 

To everyone who contributed to this thread, thank you. This info saved me between 150 (sending it to repair) and 600 (replacing the module)

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Well I signed in to tell my story about the ABS party.

 

I had all the same trouble codes. Intermittent failures etc.

 

Shops all want $1200+ to fix.

 

There's a relay sticking.

 

So I soaked down the ABS module with spray oil (Mobil-1 spray, I bought a case when they stopped making it) and haven't had a failure in 2 weeks through rain and high heat.

 

Cheapest of all options and worth a try.

 

-kents

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I watched the video and tried this fix also. It was tricky getting the four screws out, but that is probably the hardest part. Getting it apart is not easy, just takes time and patience. Soldering is easy also and I suck at it. Had no idea if it would work or not, but put it back together and on the truck. Have not had the light come back on for 3 weeks now and it was coming on daily before. Looks like this fixed it. Thanks for all the help and video! :driving:

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Followup to my previous post.

 

3 months since the fix and still no light. This is definitely worth trying if you're handy or on a budget. The cost of tools is small compared to the cost of repair or a new module, just 2 torx drivers, a razor blade, and a soldering iron (and solder).

 

Spend some time watching "how to solder" videos if you're not familiar with it, otherwise - the only skill you need is patience.

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After reinstalling the module I was having the same trouble. Had the ABS codes read by a friend and found out the hub bearing/sensor I replaced just a year was bad. Replaced it with AC Delco hub and all is good now. Stay away from Raybestos parts.....

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After reinstalling the module I was having the same trouble. Had the ABS codes read by a friend and found out the hub bearing/sensor I replaced just a year was bad. Replaced it with AC Delco hub and all is good now. Stay away from Raybestos parts.....

You learned a lesson I hope , never guess !!!! It'll bite ya EVERY time

 

 

Guys read this and learn , I've been tryin to tell ya all this for 7 yrs !!!

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Have a leak somewhere around the brake hydroboost system. Replaced the hydroboost, still have a leak I cannot figure out........ Any Idea's ???? Not loosing brake fluid but power steering fluid. Also brake "feathers" like ABS is trying to kick in when barely braking....

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Reviving this post from the dead, same issue on my 2002 Yukon XL 2500. Had the ABS and Brake lights come on intermittently, could usually get them to turn off with a key cycle. Finally went ahead and sent the EBCM out to Module Masters to be rebuilt. Put the rebuilt module back in last night and now ABS and Brake lights are on steady.  Had the C0265 DTC before and after the module was rebuilt.  I scanned for codes but the C0265 will not clear, I can hear the relay clicking but cannot hear the ABS pump motor run. The fuse is brand new, also tried with the original fuse as well.  The ground connection is clean as well.  Anything obvious worth checking tonight again other than running through the troubleshooting sequence in the service manual?  I should mention I had the dealership replace a leaking engine seal before this issue started, they had to pull the transmission out to do that and found one post about a ground wire on the back passenger side of the engine block that has caused issues similar to this. I'll be checking that wire tonight too.

Edited by 56napco
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I'll tell my story. Had the same issue. Purchased an 05 Chevy Silverado. Had both abs light and brake light on. Started by checking all my fuses. Then cleaned up the ground under drivers door, also cleaned up 2 grounds on the radiator support. Then removed abs module, soldered pins put back on and then my cruise started working but the lights didnt go out. Tried soldering again and still the lights were on. When I try read the abs codes with a snap on verus it cant communicate to the abs system so I cant even read the codes. I'm pretty much stumped and wondering if I have a bad module. I also checked for power and ground at the plug for the module and all checked out ok.

Edited by Cmsdetailing
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