Jump to content

Door Panel Removal


Recommended Posts

Posted

Alright i got the escalade door handles(black bezel with chrome handle) and i plan on putting them on tomorrow. Does anyone know where theres a good guide on how to take off the door panels? Or if you can just tell me how to and give a few pointers id appreciate it, i dont feel like having to replace a door panel cause i effed them up

Posted

jesse:

 

did you run into any problems taking the door panels off, or getting the EXT handles on? I'll be doing the same thing soon. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appretiated.

 

thanks

Ben

Posted

well 1st door panel is off, the only thing that was a little tricky was figuring out how to disconnect the power windows and power locks without being able to see them. 1st panel took about 20 minutes just taking my time and jotting down little notes to remind myself where everything came from.

 

now this leads me to my problem, how do you get the outside door handle off? the only bolt I can see that has anything to do with the outside door handle is by popping off the plug in the door seam/jam. Is that all that is holding on the handle??? I've attached pictures so maybe someone who has done this before or knows how to do this can help.

Thanks in advance.

 

here's the only bolt i can see that has anything to do with the outside handle

DSC00812.jpg">

 

close up

DSC00811.jpg">

 

upper right hand of passanger door, can't see anything in here that deals with the outside handle????

DSC00810.jpg">

 

shot of the whole door skinned

DSC00808.jpg

 

anybody know how to remove the outside handle??

Posted

feeling kind of like a post whore here....but I figured it out. There are 3 10mm nuts holding the outside handle on. the trick is, you have to peel back the plastic sheeting on half the door (from back to front). the three nuts are found as follows:

 

The 1st one I pointed out earlier in the pic.

the 2nd one is found through a hole after you pull back the sheeting

the 3rd one is kind of tricky. you have to reach up through the big opening in the lower half of the door and find the nut behind a couple brackets. you can't see what you're doing, which always makes things more interesting.

 

When I get my door handles next week, I'll do a nice write up with pics. so anyone else looking to upgrade their handles will have a guide.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 602 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...