Cold on the passenger side.

[MarkMtgy]

Hey all, wonder if anyone else has experienced this...I have a '99 Siverado Z71 ext, shortbox. Love the truck...It seems like there is an air leak on the passenger side. Whenever we take road trip, my wife is freezing and so up goes the heater and fan...Then I'm sweating bullets. At first I blew it off, since chicks are always cold, but I let her take a turn on the last road trip and I d**n near froze to death over there. Can't seem to find where the air leaks in. Anyone have this same thing?

 

If only it were reversed since she's always cold and I'm always hot.

[ken01976]

Just give her your truck and that way she can drive it and everythings perfect.

[JimG]

Leak in the weatherstripping around the passenger door possibly? I remember reading some fix-it book a while back and they said a good test using a $1 bill (really any denomination, but if you destroy the bill, you're only out $1). What you do is take the bill and close the door on it and attempt to pull it out. If the weatherstripping can't seal properly the bill will just slide right out without real effort. If it's sealing correctly you will have to give it a good pull and it should come out. Worst case is the weatherstripping is compressed too tightly and you rip the bill. That's a pretty easy test. Also taking a really bright light and having a helper shine it along the door frame while the door is closed with you inside looking to see the light would work as well.

I don't know if 99's has the dual climate control or not so I don't want to start taking guesses there.

[MarkMtgy]

Heh, it is her truck...but when we road trip (often), it's our most reliable vehicle, and I prefer to drive...LOL

 

No, not weatherstripping...not dual climate control, the draft comes from under the dash...or firewall...it's weird...apperently, I am alone in this...was hoping this was a problem experienced by others...

[sxmax]

Heh, it is her truck...but when we road trip (often), it's our most reliable vehicle, and I prefer to drive...LOL

 

No, not weatherstripping...not dual climate control, the draft comes from under the dash...or firewall...it's weird...apperently, I am alone in this...was hoping this was a problem experienced by others...

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Not alone, I had this on my 01 Yukon. There is a recirculate box or panel breaks apart under the dash and needs to be resealed, otherwise it is working just like on the old trucks that had the lever by your feet to open the vent. There is a TSB for it. I had mine fixed under warranty so I can't tell you how to fix it other than the repair ticket had a tube of GM Silicone that they warrantied and some labor. We had to live with it for 30 hours in sub "0" weather on a snowmobile trip. Stuffed a stocking hat up there that helped.

[TarheelZ]

I suspect that Sxmax probably nailed it, but you might want to also check to see if the grommet around the antenna cable is in place. If the antenna was ever replaced, the grommet may not have been properly seated.

 

Good luck!

[hihosilver]

I have the same problem with my truck. My girl's feet freeze when we go on longer trips. I didn't think there was anything wrong cause my Dad has the same truck with only 12k miles on it and it's the same way. I guess I will look into fixing it now.

[budhayes3]

Here's that bulletin for ya:

 

Heating, A/C - Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer

 

File In Section: 01 - HVAC

 

Bulletin No.: 01-01-37-008

 

Date: April, 2001

 

TECHNICAL

 

Subject:

Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side

(Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)

 

Models:

1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

2002 Cadillac Escalade

 

Condition

 

Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

 

1. Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.

 

2. Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.

 

3. There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.

 

 

Cause

 

Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.

 

Correction

 

Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

 

1. Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.

 

2. Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.

 

3. Open the hood and install fender covers.

 

4. Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:

 

4.1. Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.

 

4.2. Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.

 

 

Important: Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

 

Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.

 

5. Lower the hood.

 

6. Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:

 

6.1. On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.

 

6.2. Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.

 

6.3. Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.

 

6.4. Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.

 

6.5. Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.

 

 

7. Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.

 

8. With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.

 

9. Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.

 

10. Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module.

 

11. Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.

 

12. Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:

 

Important: It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

 

12.1. Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).

 

12.2. Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.

 

12.3. From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.

 

12.4. From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.

 

12.5. Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.

 

13. Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.

 

14. Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.

 

15. Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.

 

16. Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.

 

17. Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.

 

18. Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.

 

19. Lower but do not close the hood.

 

20. Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws.

 

Tighten

 

Tighten the screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in).

 

21. Raise the hood.

 

22. Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.

 

23. Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.

 

Important: Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.

 

24. Install the wiper arm assemblies. Position the wiper blades just below the black marks in the windshield.

 

25. Install the retaining nuts.

 

Tighten

 

Tighten the retainers to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

 

26. Reconnect the washer hoses.

 

27. Remove the fender covers.

 

28. Close the hood.

[99silveradoz71]

my wife is freezing

 

 

 

 

 

Marriage will do that

[MarkMtgy]

d**n, that's a buttload of stuff to do...Not sure if I'm willing to tackle this myself or not.

 

Gotta be fixed though...guess I'll dive in. I'll let you know how it goes.

[MarkMtgy]

Thanks for the procedure Bud. I tackled the job yesterday afternoon. Not too bad. Now I need a road trip to test it. Going to the folks for thanksgiving, 5 hour drive. That ought to tell me whether I was successful or not.

[budhayes3]

Glad I could help Mark! Hope it all worked out!

[MarkMtgy]

Thanks Budhayes3, your procedure was the bomb. Once that RTV cured and I could stand to get back in the truck, no more cold air leak. I tightened up the latches on my doors too (had some air leaks going). Man, I should have done that a long time ago. I had gotten used to the air whistling in my ear until I rode in a buddy's truck and noticed how quiet it was. It's almost like a new truck. Well, okay maybe not...

[desmoface]

Budhayes, your the man (woman if the case may be)..My wifes been complaining about this since I got my truck in 2000...The trip from Ohio to Northern Maine was exceptionally memorable..I sweated my ass off as my wife was all bundled up..Next time I take my truck in I'm getting this done and the recall notice I got for bed hatch support cables..

 

Should GM cover the cost of this technical bulletin??

 

Steve

[budhayes3]

Thanks MarkMtgy and desmoface! Glad I was able to help!

 

Since you're out of warranty they might not cover it, but it's always worth a shot. Maybe they can "Goodwill" warranty it for you.

 

And man is correct...or my wife would be really surprised!!