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Hey everyone, new member here and just wanted to show off my ride

Do you have any idea how many people would love to trade their SLT grille for your Denali grill...

Did some budget rock lights. Hooked it up to my factory upfitter switch I installed for the lightbars. -9 $ worth of waterproof LEDs -4 $ Waterproof Sleeves -3 $ Tube of silicone -2 $ Stainless steel metal Ties. -20 $ 18G wire - 9 $ Waterproof connectors (so I can remove the wheel liners) -7 $ Wire loom Made the harnesses and ran them to the back but Holding off mounting the LEDs untill I order some rear liners since mine Didn't come with them from factory and I don't want to drill into the metal to mount them. Pictures make them look much more blue than they actually are.

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Cluster and Heated Steering wheel with all the controls working, both the DIC and the stereo controls work. I would guess that total I have about $2000 tied up in all of this so it can get costly and it isn't for the feint of heart, you will be cutting into factory wires. This will only work if you have the IO4 option code, if you have the IO3 stereo you are probably out of luck. Gauge cluster programming was provided by Chris over at WAMS, I highly suggest going to Chris for all your custom module programming needs. He is a busy guy so if you have questions on this swap you will want to post them here as Chris won't be able to help you out with anything other than providing the custom programming for the cluster. You can request prices from his site at: http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/ All of the information needed to do this retrofit can been dug up from the upfitters electrical manual available at: https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals If you plan on attempting this familiarize yourself with the information I post and this manual, it will save you some head aches. Basically all you are doing is tying back the steering wheel controls to the gauge cluster on the LIN Bus (one wire, that doesn't exist if you don't have controls) and then adding the gauge cluster to the MOST bus via the stereo. This is easily done at the radio module behind the HMI (The top box, but you know this if you have upgraded to IO5 or IO6) just with the grey 8 pin connector which actually is where it shows the gauge cluster being in relation between the amplifier and the radio. You will want to put the gauge cluster in series on the most bus on wires 3 and 4 from the far right connector on the radio module. So basically you will cut these wires and where they were going in to the radio now they will go into the gauge cluster on pins 1 and 2 and the return to the radio from pins 17 and 18 on the gauge cluster, all this can be found in the upfitter manaul. Then you will want to grab the MOST enable signal from wire 7 on the connector and bring it back to the gauge cluster also, you can tap off of it. If you have any questions feel free to post them here and I will try to stop in every so often and answer. PM's will go unanswered as I don't want to type the same info out 20 times so just post it here so we can have one post covering this. I will also try and post some diagrams and more pictures next week along with a link to the pins that plug in to the blank spots on the connector of the gauge cluster to add the above circuits. But yes, this can be done. Thanks, Kyle

Hi I would like to purchase your plug and play harness for my 2017 chevy 3500. I have purchased a brand new floor console from a Chevy dealer which has two USB ports (not 3) on the front drivers side of the console. Let me know what other information you require and how I go about paying you etc.. Thanks Simon

Finnaly got my headlights put on thanks van for the harnesses looks 100 times better especially driving at night!

Rbp pedals installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got my paint matched grille and headlights installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got them on amazon. The ones that are on my truck are the medium size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPF50S4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5vD-BbA1WYGB5 Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

3 words: Glutton for Punishment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing major just added some decals to the front doors. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thursday also replaced the brake light switch as my cruise control started intermittently not working. $12 and its back to working perfectly Ryan B.

I went through the boot that the factory harness uses. I just used a short piece of coat hanger and taped the cable to the end of it and pushed it in from the engine bay alongside the factory harness. Had to remove some electrical tape. I spent probably a good 20minutes trying to grab the coat hanger from the inside as it comes out right beside the big black junction box by the pedals. I eventually got fed up and just removed the 3bolts holding the junction box in and had the job done in 2 min.

I have had mine for about 11 months now. I think it is V1 or V2 however. It works great. Maybe too good in the winter. I have to empty it about every 3-400 miles in the winter. It is 95% water, but still fills up really quick. I am not complaining, because that is moisture that is not going into the intake manifold. During the summer, I can go several thousand miles between emptying it as it collects mostly oil and sludge in the summer. I am thinking that down in Arkansas, you won't experience the moisture problem nearly as much as we do up here in Wisconsin. For the money, I think it is a a great buy.

Let me see if i can draw a diagram and ill post it back in a few. Maybe i can rewire it for the better..Im always up for some learning.?

This is the best I could get where it meets the bed. This is on a GMC so I have the wheel well trim also. It's tucked up enough to hide the LEDs from anyone who isn't blatantly looking for them. Hope this helps.

I might grab a set in thr near future. But theres more to them then just bolt in

Factory Key Fob Fold - No. not very easily anyway. I did the complete Seat Memory retrofit and added it, but that was a large undertaking. Aftermarket Key Fob Fold - Yes. I have incorporated an aftermarket module that is heavily integrated into the driver side door harness. There is an added cost of $150 for this. It also requires a circuit that needs to be delivered to from the cabin junction box to the driver door (I provide all that is needed with instruction). One thing I didn’t like about the aftermarket method - the module lived inside the door panel. Water does naturally get in. I had two modules fail on me. So I had to use a ziplock bag (LOL) to keep the 3rd one from getting wet. Since retrofitting Seat memory, I have moved on from the aftermarket method. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, Phil! On an LT truck without factory memory, is it possible to have keyfob-commanded mirror folding with either of those mirrors, your harnesses and OEM folding mirror switch?

It's got a 2.5" motofab level in the front and 1" lift block in the rear. 20x9 +1 fuel vapor rims wrapped in 275/65/20 duratrac's

Phil, quick question on this point... The AM Autoparts AM-2558332961 mirror appears to be the exact same as the 1A Auto 1786 model. AM also offers the AM-3375422714 which is power folding and appears to be identical to the above mirror with the exception of 1. no memory function and 2. no puddle lamp. The AM Auto 2714 also says it is "For models without factory Power Folding - Includes Power Folding Upgrade Kit" My LT does not have any memory functions, and I might decide I could live without the puddle lamp and save 53 bucks. Based on your experience, do you see any issue with the 2714 mirror?

This morning I rebuilt a 2004 cluster for a friend of mind won't be making any money on this one, cluster was out of a non-smokers truck and so pleasant to work on. The white plastics weren't all yellow and brittle. The light refractor was clear as glass. The needles were still bright red-orange. Mind you there was only 211***kms on a diesel HD. So repaired the PRND321 display, replaced all 7 stepper motors and replaced all bulbs with LEDs, blinker and even the cruise bulb. Cleaned what needed to be cleaned and re-assembled and calibrated it just to find that it didn't pass my final test. It didn't shut down after 20-25 seconds. ( Kills battery after 3 days ) This problem is usually corrosion on the back plain but this one was clean. So had to take it all apart again to work on that problem. Wish I would have taken a picture but at the time I didn't think it could possibly be the cause. Under the microscope I found a dried out bug between 2 terminals of a surface mounted integrated circuit with 64 pins. After I removed the bug I tried the test again over and over and each time it would shut down. Sprayed the chip with alcohol and gave it one last sweep an re-assembled for the last time. It now works flawlessly and looks pretty darn good. He was dead set at getting a green background. Turn out good even though I don't like green but it's not my truck.

Frame plugs ($12) that came in the mail yesterday, so the kids and I put them in this morning. Right Side: Left Side:

Updated Pics and some more detail: The only area that had the factory wax blown off was where the high pressure car wash could directly hit the frame, just under the rockers. I went under the truck and checked everything else - the underside was surprisingly well coated with FF. It "stayed" decently. I sprayed another pint of FF on the exposed frame and more of the underbody. If you look at the pic I posted earlier the bare metal was beading water. What is interesting about this is that the FF was applied over the waxy factory undercoating. This waxy undercoating was blown off by high pressure car washing yet the water was beading on the bare metal. This means that the FF did wick its way to the metal and was protecting it somewhat. This 2016 GM truck had rust on most of the welds and most sharp edges. It spent one winter in the NE with heavily salted roads. The weld rust is due to having really shitty wax undercoating from the factory that is pretty easily removed by normal washing and harsh winter conditions. Yes, welds rust. These rusty areas have not grown since application of FF. So I think that FF does work but it will need to be re-applied. Mostly it makes me feel like I have done something to protect the truck against the horrible salty roads. We will see in about a year how it looks.

A few shots of our 2018 Elevation Crew Cab in Stone Blue with custom taillights, debadge, and 20% tint.

First brand new truck Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I had muffler delete on my 14 GMC as an experiment before going with a performance muffler. It wasn’t loud really after initial start up. Lite sound cruising, more on throttle. The resonator is really no different than a glass pack. Then you add the cats can’t expect too much noise. Evidently I put a performance muffler on, it went back to stock sounding. At 59 years old my loud exhaust was a thing of the past for a daily driver. As far as sound quality that’s in the ear of the beholder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ceramic coat done Tuesday.

New to me 2015 5.3, threw in the low beam leds, highbeams and fogs to come along with many more mods XD Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Seriously stop buying from other places everybody, buy from fast headlights aka fastws6ta. -he is at the same price or cheaper as everybody else -he’s active on the forum -he was literally helping me via text message during installation, on the weekend -I have absolute zero issues, oem reliability

I’ve been seeing the message every morning for the last couple of weeks here in central Massachusetts... I don’t find it a nuisance. Hit dismiss button. Done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I too was VERY disappointed at first but after seeing it in person the Sierra has grown on me tremendously. I think the SLT had too much chrome though. The AT4 and Denali are very nice in person.

You sir, made me smile with that one.

Not the greatest shot but Here's my Trail Boss. Wasn't planning on getting the Trail Boss until I saw it in person and kind of had to after that. Love it so far. Coming from a 2015 Silverado LT.

This morning waiting on her to warm up...that stance gets me weak in the knees.

Sent via Morse code

Guys, here's a clue....it's not the shocks, and it definitely not the tires, and it's not the driveshaft, and it's not the ring and pinion, and it's not the exhaust, and it's not the AFM, and it's not the skid plates....from living with this vibrating piece of sh!t for 6000 miles, and changing all of the above except the ring and pinion gears (which others have to no avail) this problem is still unresolved. ZERO GM attempt to reach out to any of us who have been our dealers in an attempt to fix the problem, none of which have resulted in a fix. I will bet this is a transmission/ torque converter problem as nothing else we've all wasted time and monety addressing has fixed it. Have one or two of all the above helped? Sure each one might be a channel thru which the vibration is made worse, but none of them is the cause. We need to keep pressuring our dealers and ramp up the media and online postings of a brand new redesigned truck that has a major flaw. Folks this is GM, the same company who covered up an ignition defect that resulted in multiple deaths. Yes GM you have that blood on your hands. As well as a sea of recent recalls. Fuk U I am so tired of driving around a $50,000 vibration machine, which based on the fact at 6000 miles, has only gotten worse, will clearly lead to other mechanical failures down the road. Step the Fuk up and stop ignoring your customers. I guarantee this is going to escalate in the media and internet. We all need to make sure GM is held accountable. Call me, write me, email me...do something GM before you have yet another legal issue on your hands and in the public. Yours truly, a totally dissatisfied, and disappointed customer. You have my VIN