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I just don't get people not checking their oil and keeping it full. My guess is if your cell phone doesn't tell you to?

We aren't a big fan of the hitch setup on our 2500HD in regards to attaching the safety chains for our Arctic Fox 22G trailer. As you can see in the pics, the hooks are too big for the rather odd hitch hole arrangement. Even if I were to remove the little latch on the hook it still won't quite go through the holes. So, the dealer came up with the smaller chain and quick link type solution so we can attach the safety chains. I guess I don't like the added length from this setup. I really don't want to drill more holes or grind on the existing ones. I've tried a bigger quick link by itself but it won't go all the way around and through both holes. This GMC hitch setup is just weird. I've looked at a little bit smaller hooks for the safety chains but then they won't fit all the way through on the hitch. Maybe I just haven't found the right hook yet? Anyone else run into this problem and what solution did you come up with that you are satisfied with?

I think a big reason more ppl are buying HD trucks is because of what’s happening with half tons. All going to v6 and turbos and all of them have all the “features” to appease the epa the start stop and cylinder deactivation etc. Thats probably the biggest reason I switched. And I just liked the more squared off look of the hd. All the half tons have gotten very soft looking. The new soccer mom mobiles.

You a "part-time" philosopher???

At a minimum it should be checked for sure, and then if any adjustment is needed, adjusted. That negative toe seems like a likely culprit for the inner feather/accelerated wear. If you had too much negative camber, the whole tire would be worn at an angle across the whole tread. Unless the roads where you live are 100% smooth as glass, it does not hurt to have your alignment checked periodically and adjusted as necessary. Potholes, you curb a tire, the vehicle ages and components settle, worn bushings, tie rods, ball joints, the list goes on. Do you have to have it checked every 3000mi? That would be overkill. Once a year? Not a bad idea.

Mine is a 2022.5, 25,000mi so far. I lose 1/2-1 quart in 3000mi. This is due to a leak that I still haven't bothered to have addressed Either the lower oil pan or the oil cooler. I do see the cooler wet at the bottom and half way up it, so my bet is the cooler. Assuming I fixed the leak, I'd bet I lose 0-1/2 a quart in 3000mi. I drive mostly in manual mode (L7 occasionally otherwise L8), and I'm not easy on the skinny pedal at times either. Did my first drain at 1500mi after my own "break in" which is first 500mi normal driving, keep it no more than 3000rpm, 501-1000mi get it to about 4500rpm and some gradual load increase, and then the last 500mi get the RPMs up higher, load up harder and by the end a few back to back WOT pulls.

Totally anecdotal and unscientific but my niece used to have an equinox with an Ecotec NA engine that used oil running M1. I told my brother to switch it to another brand and for some reason it burned much less oil on Pennzoil. He was surprised and I seemed like I knew something, a win-win LOL

Shocking that so many people who depend so much on their vehicles will not put the least little effort to keep it from blowing up.

220F isn't "technically" overheating. Overheat warning doesn't kick off until 265F. Why did you change all of those items to begin with? Engine failure? Transmission failure?

Alignment is out. Get it realigned.

Just think, if he changed his oil at 4,000 miles or 5,000 miles this thread would never exist because the oil level wouldn't be as low. But at 6,000 miles it's down 1 liter. Maybe just change the oil sooner. Was it normal for my 6.7 Cummins work truck to burn 1 gallon of oil in 20,000 miles, probably not but when the service contract says 20k oil changes, not much I can do. The oil is like water at 15,000+ miles, so I just add oil to make it not blow up.

Dude again, you need to find yourself another dealer.

Normal? No. Common? Oh yea.

I just ordered a `25 with the 5.3. These forums are useful but didn`t deter me from buying. ALL manufacturers are having problems. So, drive what ya want.

Thanks. One thing I've noticed is how the ride is so much better than that of my 2017 (also a 3/4 ton)

Whether it is a dealer or independent shop, most reputable alignment techs and the machines they use can print off the before and after toe, camber etc and be able to explain it to you in plain English. if not, go somewhere else who will.

The K2s seats did the same thing. On those, assuming nothing was worn out or loose, there was some shims they installed on one of the seat bars.

@customboss, no need for confusion. You of all people are aware that this is a dynamic situation that everyone tries to see as a static moment. Lots of moving parts that must be connected. Separating out a single point, a marketing trick, does not paint a complete picture. And you also surely understand the difficulty of explaining that dynamic. What I see clearly in mind, words sometimes can't capture. Try to explain to someone the nature of a rod bearings travels over time. How rotation reverses and what effect that has on the hydrodynamic wedge at the point of reversal. How the load at any given point along its arc effects the Hersey number. Make them understand a load plot and how GM defined and plotted that data stream during the development of the Gen 1 SBC. Even changing the forced lubrication point of entry based on that data. Get them to understand the value of time in a wear study and how accelerated testing does not even come close to the reality of Joe Average's motors life cycle. And yet, is still useful. How personal observation over decades does not lead one to the truth in the absolute only to a better/worse conclusion that we will not live long enough to fully explore. They can't do it in a lab but some a certain that a lifetime of experience is absolute. Ring tension hysteresis on film thickness at the reversal points and how those two points differ. Or how the oil temperature in the pan is not the point temperature anywhere in the motor other than the pan and its value is not the average nor even the median, just it's dynamic thermal equilibrium. What we can say is what is directionally correct but without the certainty of the acceleration of gravity. So, we chose points of discussion. Stare so closely at the eye, that we can't tell if it is the eye of a human or a horse. We don't even share points of reference in these discussions. One in concerned with wear mitigation and cleanliness and another's concern is warranty and fuel economy. A dog chasing its tail.

Thanks Coop I will give that a try. Will let you know. Have a good one.

Normal. Minimum oil pressure at 1000rpm (between 66 - 259°F oil temp) is 23 - 33 psi. The oil pump is a 2 stage variable displacement pump as well, with a low psi and a high psi stage that is switched with an oil flow control valve. As for your quart of oil, normal driving the spec max allowed spec is 1 quart in 2000mi, if doing a lot of towing, hard driving, high speeds or high RPMs, the spec allowed max is 1 quart in 1000mi. If you have a fairly new truck with low mileage (under 3000mi) you could still be dealing with break in period consumption.

It's fine the computer keeps it at 20 psi at idol. When under high load it goes to.40 psi

Looks about normal for when a 3.0 is idling. I wish they would adjust the screen programming to show 0 - 60 or something instead of 0 - 120. I don't think I've ever seen my LM2 or LZO go over 1/2 way

FJW - Gasoline, E15 J24 - Engineering year 2024 JGD - GVWR 10,450lbs DWI - Mirrors, outside power-adjustable vertical trailering with heated and auto-dimming upper glass, lower convex mirrors, turn signal indicators, puddle lamps, (U12) perimeter lighting, auxiliary lighting, power folding/manual extending (extends 3.31" [84.25mm])

Truck laundering …

Good afternoon, Just got an oil change on my 2021 GMC Sierra 1500 2.7T and the tech told me I was down about 1L, Im using Mobile 1 Full synthetic and I do my oil changes at 6000k. is this normal?

the oil won't even be on the dipstick at 4500 miles on my 2.7, when i need to add , i just change it

The cooling system failed a pressure test yesterday indicating a leak, then dealer claims it passed a pressure test today. They pulled a vacuum on it, filled it up, and said come get it. Wonder how long it takes to drop again.