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Here is the manual for my 2025 it does infer that the crosshatch area should be appox 1L. and it says the oil level should be checked cold and parked on level ground. Also to check every 400miles.

I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure.

I have no first-hand knowledge about it but I have seen quite a few comments that GM selected lower viscosity gear oils to slightly improve fuel mileage. Personally, I care more about longevity and reliability than fuel mileage on this type of vehicle, and I have not read any cautions about using 75w90 in place of the 75w85 specified for the front differential, so I went with the 75w90 I have used for 35 years on other GM trucks and SUVs.

This is a good video on fuel additives and their effects. It's long but well worth the time. Very good information.

Interesting is I stopped off at a NAPA store in WV small town and they said they are having a hard time getting 0w-20. I also have a contact at a Chevrolet dealership that said the ULV fluid for the 10sp is hard to get as well. Not GM related but I also stopped off at our local Kia dealership and they said they were out of their ATF and it was on order inspected to get it in in a week. They said they were limited to what they could order. In the mean time AMSOIL see's what is going on and sent out a letter stating there are issues with getting supplies and pricing will have another slight increase but to be sure AMSOIL isn't seeing any issues as of now providing for their customers. They can supply as normal. Can't find what you need locally from your normal source? Contact me I can get you the best price on anything AMSOIL.

It is always a good idea to exercise it at least every few months to make sure the actuators don’t get stuck. It is also a good idea to actually drive it for at least a few hundred feet when you do that so seals experience motion and oil movement. Off pavement or snow/ice is best for this, but driving wet pavement in a straight line for a short distance will work if you don’t have other options. I have forgotten and gone as long as six months between exercising it on my 2021 and it has always shifted promptly. I usually just use my straight 300 foot gravel driveway.

You need to check your tires/rims, and front end parts for damage.

If it's at the bottom line it IS a quart low from full that; that is the point of the sticks markings. It says, "If the oil is below the crosshatch area at the tip of the dipstick and the engine has been off for at least 15 minutes, add 1 L (1 quart) of the recommended oil and then recheck the level". (shows a little arrow to indicate which line is at the tip of the stick for the confused word salad crew). Ya know, like the line that says 'don't drink the battery fluid". Lets use your logic. If it is 0.000001" below the mark then add a FULL quart and it will be 0.000001" below the full mark. Thus the distance of the cross-hatching is 1 quart and it is one quart low of FULL if AT the line; so yea, it's a quart low of full. Being in the 'acceptable range" if you add less doesn't alter this fact. Critical thinking people. Word salad..... I now know the reason for the ridiculous wording of present day manuals. But it still doesn't explain the pop-up on the infotainment screen that says, "Don't read this screen while driving" that pops up when your driving.

Now there's some fancy double talk. Let me see if I get this right. The level is at the bottom of the hatching and you add a quart (because the range of the hatching is a quart) it brings it to the top of the hatching but.... it's not down a quart?

I did a search outside of this forum and came across a thread from this forum from two years ago which was amusing but one I recall now from a trusted member who had himself had to add a quart on his brand new truck to bring it up to near the level plug level. Then after accumulating 5000 or so miles on the truck he pulled the cover to drain it out and wiped out the bottom of the diff housing and put the factory cover back on and in his case it took exactly 4 quarts to bring it up to within that 4/10 of an inch below the fill/level check plug, far more than the GM spec. That is a big difference between that GM spec ( which is why the GM diffs are below the level they themselves say they should be when coming out of the factory ) vs what amounts to around 8 pints of oil. My own truck when I first got it home from new, I had not measured how much volume mine took since I used a hand pump on a 6 gallon pail of gear oil to top it off but I had measured it by using a bent wire on the flat shop floor after the truck sat overnight and a ruler and it was exactly 1" below the bottom of the fill hole on the rear diff. That fell right into line with what others have measured from a factory filled rear diff on these HD trucks, however the GM instructions are to fill from within between 4/10" of an inch or up to the bottom of the fill/level check hole as the full range. So that is why it alarmed me when you mentioned not seeing any oil in that window although I wasn't sure if that diff cover held the exact same amount as the factory cover so can only speculate its probably very close to retain the same oil flow characteristics over the top that the ring gear provides with the factory curved cover vs some of these odd flat back diff covers ( the whole video Gale does on that about some of the goofy after market covers out there ).

Impressed myself People have been telling me since I bought it that she was going to blow any minute. 200K is certainly a milestone I'm looking forward to but I have no idea how many miles it will take to quite the pessimist among us. Pattern has been; they set a goal, Pepper exceeds that goal, the goal post gets moved. At some point I'll run out of time. It is catching up with me. We'll see. 300K? 400K? Half a million? It's not using oil yet and that is a great sign. It's not leaking from any part of the powertrain. Another good sign. So...

That's certainly good to hear that there was nothing alarming on the cover magnet volume wise or chunk wise of metal. I don't recall if the Banks cover holds more oil than the factor cover, what volume did you estimate that it took ?. As to the transfer case I assume you bought whatever brand you wanted of a Dexron VI automatic transmission fluid. Have you changed the automatic trans fluid at some point and actually I don't recall if your truck is the gas or diesel version as that makes the difference as to which transmission and oil type is required in 2023. The problem with my truck is that its the gas engine with the 10 speed and I've not yet attempted to see if I can drop the pan as the silly exhaust is right in the way and I do not want to touch the exhaust system on the manifold end if I can help it, the diesel does not have the Y pipe style exhaust under the pan so is not an issue to remove the pan.

It's raining on and off today, but I was able to change the rear oil and cover before it started. I ended up getting the Amsoil 75W85 for the front, 75W90 for the rear, and the right fluid for the transfer case. I wanted a cover with a drain, so that's pretty much the reason for the aftermarket one. I have a Roadmaster sway bar and had to fabricate 1" spacers for clearance, so that might be helpful if anyone has that on their truck and considering the cover swap. Old oil had 60,000 miles and just the slightest metal fuzz on the magnet; everything looked super nice. Fourth pic is just to highlight the spacers to accommodate the cover. Those bags sure make it easier than the old siphon guns.

Good to hear you got it figured out. Did you grease the upper ball joints before you put the caps on? I don’t believe mine were greased from the factory so I greased them when I installed them.

Love it! Reg Cab guys are a small minority. Most available trucks will be white, black or silver. Mine has been perfect so far. But I haul more stuff than people. Reg Cab/Standard Bed are easier to park. No issues with the 2.7L after 50K, however I change the oil every 3K because of the turbo and direct injection.

every truck needs a companion

Talk about throwing people for a loop! The newer Jeep 4-cylinders (2018+, "Hurricane" engine) make people think they're hallucinating when checking the oil. A proper oil check, described in the owner's manual, is exactly 5 minutes after shutdown of a fully warm engine. Not before 5 minutes. Not when the engine is cold. You have to take a reading when the recirculation in the turbo and top engine has drained down, but not completely empty. When those engines are stone-cold, the dipstick reads almost 1.5 quarts overfull. When they're warm right after shutdown, the stick may read almost empty.. If you change the oil and dump out 5 quarts of dirty oil including changing the filter, and refill with 5 quarts, this really can mess with your head if you check the oil later on and don't know what you're looking at.

It’s at the point of amusement. I’m retired I have time. It’s fun seeing people try to convince me I’m using oil. I’m buying oil at the prescribed time. It gets drained and new goes in. Do I add in between, no. My oil doesn’t even get dirty in 5k miles. I don’t even see any drop on the stick. I check in the same place. All is well.

So using that analogy. Honda,Toyota, VW and others go extended. All my Hondas at 5K miles are at 50 percent with oil changes. My Camry I bought new my Grandaughter now drives gets 10K oil changes. All mentioned vehicles are past 100k miles. Most past 150K. Two at 170K. I’m the only one who checks oil. The only one who changes early. When they visit I check their oil, tires etc. if they were to use oil I would swap out with them. So I know they wouldn’t run dry. They don’t use oil according to the dipstick. One 2010 Mazda 3 we found really cheap another grand daughter drives. It’s getting near 180K no oil usage. That’s again is according the dipstick. I can’t make it any clearer.

I bought it a trailer

Ok well I guess Lake disagrees with me on a few points. I call oil consumption pretty basic. Rudimentary. He calls it "really complicated." I think 1qt consumed in 3k miles is a lot. He says that's normal. In 22 minutes, he'll use his natural talent to explain oil consumption to anyone watching this video. He covers everything from obvious engine damage to how normally functioning healthy engines consume oil by design. Lake explicitly states how you drive will impact oil consumption. Shut up and watch:

Did the passenger side today. Seemed worse than the drivers side. I’ll check back in 5000 miles or when the low oil light comes on - whichever comes first. on another note - went to do sway bar bushings and 3 of 4 bolts broke. Gotta love New England.

Appreciate everyone's help and suggestions. I am going to man up on this one and admit my stupidity. I had the lower control arms on the wrong side and obviously upside down. I should have disassembled and then assembled 1 side at a time. Instead I disassembled both side ones night, cleaned up, and then reassembled the next night. It's amazing how closely everything still lines up with the arms on the wrong side. Close enough that I was able to get one side loosely bolted up. As soon as I went to put the knuckle on and saw that the hole for the lower ball joint to fit into was tapered the wrong direction it hit me what I had done. Once I swapped the LCA's the passenger side bolted right up imagine that. On the driver side I did have to compress the spring again and rotate it 180deg. Once I did that the angle of the shock and mounting ears all lined up as well. Have not got the new tires mounted and alignment yet (later this week), but the improvement was definitely noticeable over the worn OE shocks. I did end up getting rid of the 1/2" Rough Country strut spacer and then adjusted the Eibach's up all the way to the 2.5" setting. No rubbing on the Superlift UCA like I had with the OE one with the same tires. Did not need the wheel spacers.

I'd guess state side Group III. That Qatar plant is a GTL unit, Group III+

GDI Injector tips are in the combustion chamber and yes, they are subject to the same aromatic hydrocarbon based carbon build up the entire chamber is subjected to. Chevron Techron is a PEA based cleaner (polyether amine) that is VERY effective if the dose is high enough. Carbon the tips disrupts the spray pattern so keeping them clean is kind of a big deal. It will clean more than the injector tips. It will keep the inside of the injector tip clean as well. When they shut off they 'hot soak' building varnish internally behind the pintle. The tip, unlike most MFI systems have several orifices of very small diameter. They have to stay clean to work right. That spray pattern is supposed to spray into the cup in the piston, not all over the cylinder walls. Old guys will understand... Top Tier Chevron has enough of the cleaner to be effective if used regularly. Other solutions could be Shell V Power Nitro + Premium and Exxon/Mobil Supreme Plus Premium ONLY use a different chemistry to the same effect with the added bonus of a friction/antiwear additive as well. Red Line SI-1 is PEA based as well with an upper cylinder lube. There's a white paper on their site for shock treatment of system left untreated for long periods. AMSOIL PI has a full system cleaner of yet another chemistry that will strip carbon out of the power cylinder pretty quick. Gumout Regane is also PEA based but at very low doses and those that are isopropanol based will not be effective. Alcohol content is way to low. Chevron Techron in any pump gas, Use by package instructions. 10 oz per 15 gallons every 3,000 miles. First use may require two treatments. So, Techron, Red Line SI-1 and AMSOIL PI if batch treating and Shell, XOM Premium or any Chevron Fuel will not just keep it clean, but will clean it if dirty. No other fuel "I'm aware of will do that". Flex Fuel motors. If you use at least 40% alcohol on a regular basis they won't carbon at all. PEA is not recommended for fuels over E-20 (www.carparts.com)

Indeed that photo makes me laugh as its almost comical in a sense when I think about Christmas at a certain brother inlaws as he turns on the tv and puts it to the burning fire place channel, an image of reality but yet far from reality in what it accomplishes in any physicals sense. When I search for answers to what is the optimum oil level in which to run an engine, of no surprise it states that its NOT ideal to run the engine constantly at the add mark but IS ideal for the longevity of the engine to run the oil level at or near the full mark on the dipstick. While its fairly typical although not written in stone as per the one quart difference between full and add on what I would refer to as a full size vehicle engine, as one goes up in engine size for trucks, field tractors, other industrial equipment etc and the oil capacity increases they stretch out the volume between full and add. Typically highway tractor engines tend to be a gallon of oil and that may be 1 tenth of the total engines oil volume. Looking back at the older GM full size pickup engines, some of them only held hardly over 4 quarts ... that 1 quart low was taking 25% of the total oils volume away and no wonder they started bumping up the total oil volume with a larger sump on pans for the same engine platform to help the engine and retain the oils integrity to increase the odds of the engines life span.

Techron is a fuel injection cleaner and my point is it won't help prevent carbon build up on your intake valves. I am not aware of any product that can prevent carbon build up on a DI engine.

Fuel Update 6/7/2026 Since getting Pepper back I've been blending fuel. 50/50 E-85 - 93 pump gas. At my local pricing that is a 97 octane fuel for the price of regular and metering 48% alcohol. This much gasoline octane locally is $10 a gallon with only one local resource!! I can blend this anywhere I find E-85. Why? Longer range. Same no KR timing pull. More lubricious fuel. No loss in power cylinder cleanliness and a reasonable chance at seeing any future fuel dilution in the UOA's. When I blend with Shell or XOM premiums there is some friction modifier and antiwear enhancement. No cold weather starting issues either. So lots of pluses and few losses.

So. Get this. On the Chevy regular cab, you can get the factory remote start at the dealer from the accessories catalog. BUT. GMC, you can't. Now...get this...GMC 2 door, you CAN get the power seat. Go. Figure. Anywho. are you trying to order? Or locate? Ordering for 2 door 1/2 tons has been stopped as of April or May? So you won't be able to order. You'll have to shop on the ground units or in transit units. Ordering was stopped because the new trucks are coming.

I’ve seen many times people over buy to start a business. Instead of quality equipment they buy junk and drive an expensive truck. Our first haul truck was a 2 ton wrecker with 6 cylinder to haul our equipment. It would go 60 miles per hour flat out. Our trucks were older trucks we could work on easily. Our equipment was first class that we could work without fear of breaking down. You could always use large trash bags to wrap for water proofing. Put the money where the return is. Comfort and luxury comes with success. Good luck in your venture.

I find the nicest people at my very small church and my favorite casino.

It's amazing the different ways people think. Fluid expansion has never come into play in 50+ years. If the dipstick level, oil or trans is with in the marks is all that matters to me. I have always done oil checks on a cold engine. Not saying that's right, just my way.

Some people are struggling to fill their gas tank.

Buy a van

Update, just got ok from chevy for dealer to replace engine. But its on backorder

Biggest reason is fuel dilution rates of GDI engines.

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Go for the 10-spd. I have a 2024 3/4 ton and 1 ton dually. We are now at over 100k miles between the two. The 3/4 ton doesn't tow as much and I have had zero issues. The 1 ton tows a couple times a week, 10-16k depending on the machine I am moving. Both trucks are used for construction and also spend time at the farm, have been great. Had an issue with the 1 ton and GM replaced the valve body in the transmission, it was down for 3 weeks which sucked, but it was all covered. It tows great and I really like the 6.6 L8T. Maintenance has been easy, I do all oil and fluid changes myself. The front end is greasible, so make sure you keep everything lubed up. On our 2018 3/4 ton with the 6.0 I just had to use our unlimited powertrain warranty. I thought the warranty would never actually pay, but once they saw the engine was spotless inside at 180k and the only issue was a failed camshaft bearing, they paid 12k for a new engine. Always thought those warranties were a scam, but if you are diligent about maintenance and keep track of your records, they are great. Many of the oil changes were self performed, but I had all the receipts from buying the oil and filters, and had a log with the mileage I changed it at.

Third time. Some consumption is 'masked' by fuel dilution, soot formation, acid formation of blowby gasses. Oil consumed offset by degradation products produced. 2 to 8% How much is that of your sump volume? for Pepper that is 4 ounces to a pint of oil. Why is everyone aware that we check transmission fluids at operating temperatures due to thermal expansion and ignorant or at least dismissive about this issue for the engine oil? Ever allow a motor to drain at oil change for a period of 'overnight"? Measure on the dipstick every quarter hour for say 2 hours and educate yourself. Then let is sit overnight (cooler) and ask the expansion and dilution questions again.

We recognize the importance of being able to rely on your Silverado, Rob81. Your safety is our top priority, and we would like the opportunity to work alongside you and your local Chevrolet dealer to pursue the resolution of your truck stalling. To proceed, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the support request form with all pertinent details. This form helps our team gather the right information and ensures your request is routed appropriately. We will be on the lookout for your outreach.

No, actually, it's more about intentional planning and saving. But, Gobbless! Now back to the subject.

Jl audio is much better than Bose. Bose are junk. They have been since the late 90’s when I was into car audio. Always been a laughing stock.

Guys, thank you so much for the help! Dealer called back and is willing to participate $7,000 towards lifter and cam shaft replacement. Basically complete engine rebuild. Our cost will be 5k. These replacement parts will be covered by a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.

OMG don't let @riddler see this

Well here it is have only pulled it home not loaded yet but looks to sit ok have to see how it pulls in a few weeks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk