L86 All Terrain

Good show Jared. About ready to rotate the earth under those big tires?

2.5" level, block in back, 33x12.5R20, slight rub on swaybar.

Been test driving a used '17 for the last week. Don't really need the diesel and we have nothing but issues with DEF big trucks at work in the -30c winters in Canada. This kind of leans me to passing up the opportunity and waiting for a 6.0L.

Where did you find the 1/4" spacers? I can only find 1/2" and that is way too much for my 33x12.5's. I don't like the look of these stanced bro-trucks that need a repaint in 2 years because the wheel sticks out 8 inches from the fender well.

Lots of us remember driving trucks that were built to last (1998 and older) with simple, mechanical or moderately electronic drivetrains, little to no driver aids or fancy useless frills, big thick C-channel steel frames, thick body metal that didn't dent overly easy or rot right through in two years. It is all about the money guys, like everything in this crazy world. Why make a truck that lasts for 15 years when people will buy trucks that only last 8 years for even more money? If you make a quality product, then you lose out on parts and service, and the customer will not return for years longer. It is all a big scam by vehicle manufactures and government entities in order to maximize profits. Where our 98's had 4 miles of wiring and 15 sensors, the new ones have 35 miles of microscopic wires and 100 sensors. It is apparent that reliability will be lost. I experience the same issue with my Class 8 trucks, the old ones keep chugging on down the road making me money, the new ones are broke down in the shop for CEL, DEF and sensor issues... That way, Kenworth makes more money, Cummins makes more money, the Government makes more money, but I (the little fish) lose more money. Now they have inflated pricing on pick ups to $100k usd and as long as people pay it, the price will go up as quality simultaneously goes down. I agree, these trucks are not as good as the last generation and AFM is a huge issue, it caused my 2014's transmission to mis-shift and lock into 2nd or 3rd gear every time I coasted from highway speed to city speed zones. GM couldn't figure it out and replaced the TEHCM twice before I figured it out myself. Deleted AFM via tuner, no issues with shifts. AFM would go crazy and fluctuate the engine rpm's, then the trans thought "hey, maybe slamming into 2nd and screeching the tires is a good idea right now." My 2015 has been great though but it only has 27,000km on it so far. Everything is about the $. Don't think buying a Dodge or Ford will change reality of modern vehicles, because they all suck compared to what some of us are used to.

Can't say I blame you, the new style Chevy stole their design cues from a Honda CRV. I like the 14-15 GMC's better than the new ones, but I like the new Chevy front end over the 14-15 Chevy's. I like them all better than the new 2019 Chevy Forderado Tundra edition. Good luck with the swap, most certainly do-able.

Is there a bulletin for this? There should be a recall, something tells me your truck turning off at freeway speeds, might perhaps constitute a "safety concern".... I have stabilitrak issues, but I think its tied to a transmission problem. Perhaps I should check out this ground if GM doesn't put in another TCM in the truck on Thursday. Note to self: never buy first M.Y.

Lol I was going to say, I can't see the running boards causing that. I have a 2007 Duramax at work that does it, and my daily work truck 2014 1500 does it too and it has no running boards, both are extended cabs. I have also had all the trim removed searching with no luck. It sounds like there is a golf ball on a string inside the B pillar that swings back and fourth tapping the inside of the panel on rougher roads, both trucks. Good 'ol Chevy interiors, maybe I will just fill the B pillar with expanding foam

Do it yourself. If you remove the pan and change the filter you will only get about 1/3rd of the fluid. Perform a flush, then remove the pan and change the filter. Lots of service videos on YT on GM transmissions, you are just taking one line of the tranny cooler and pulling the new stuff through the system. I have been meaning to do my 6L80e as it having solenoid issues (locking itself into second gear at 35mph lol).

Last night I got my new fogs, and HIDs installed, then realized I couldn't get the airbox back in where I mounted the ballast. So I remounted all my wiring, moved the ballasts and relays, put in an AFE intake and buttoned everything back up, minus the two MAF sensor screws that are now down in my belly pan somewhere. I love it when a 3 hour job takes 6 hours. Intake sounds awesome. Headers and tune next.

The 2010 I am referring to is a 2500HD. Absolutely bulletproof. We use them in the logging industry here, the get the crap kicked out of them and wont die. Still have 1 GMT800 too its' a Dmax with 660,000km, no injectors done. Personally, I had a 2010 1500 as well, $120 purge canister in 5 years, also a top notch truck. This 2014 however, I want to ghost ride it off the nearest cliff.

Thinking of trading my 2014 in on a 2010. Pretty sad when you look to downgrade 4 years because you know that era of truck is tough as nails and typically issue free. My 15 is my favourite truck I ever had, the 14 is my most hated truck I have ever had. Case by case basis. I think it a combination of cheaply manufactured torque converters, driveshafts, and rear axle shafts being made by 6 y/o kids in China. They build them cheaper and cheaper and charge more and more. Anyone with SLT's or Denali's shaking, or mostly the lower trims? My SLT is like silk but this WT is like your driving down as highway made of railroad ties.

Finally figured out how to resize a photo on Windows 10 sos why not lol. 2015 GMC SLT AT 6.2L. 30" lightbar mounted behind grill, 33x12.5R20 Pro comps, AFE intake, Morimoto HID retrofit, full LED interior/brake light swap, Morimoto fogs (to be instaleld), tinted, "custom" leveling kit, magnaflow muffler, 15,000 miles Possibly to come: Coilovers, Procharger, electric cut out, Kooks LT and dyno tune, low-pro vent visors, smooth and paint flares. Still deciding if I should keep for a five more years or trade when the new ones come out.

No, the hub is not included in the powertrain warranty, and depending on your dealer/customer relationship, it is doubtful it would get covered under bumper to bumper either. It is classified as a wear item and unless a visible defect is present or premature failure they most likely would tell you to shove it. Back on topic, how bad is everyone's TCS/SCS acting up? My 2015 will only do it when near full left turn lock at speed. In 27,000km (17k miles) it has done it probably 5-6 times. I never noticed it before the big tires and level. Definitely not the biggest annoyance. I will take that any day over the issues my 2014 has.

I was thinking trans too, so I started to watch and take notes. The other day the truck was cold, trans temp at 20c. The shake was present with the trans cold as soon as I pulled onto the highway and hit 110kph (65mph), when the trans got up to its 75-88c operating temp, I did another highway run with no (bad) shake. The next day when the trans was cold, it was smooth, then when the trans was at OP temperature, the truck shook violently at 65mph. In my particular case, trans warm up or temperature had no play on the vibration. It does it with a warm or cold trans., at random when ever it feels like it. Not ruling out the trans, but to me a bad TC would produce the same symptom every time regardless.

The grommet will self seal tight to your wires, i taped my wires onto a sharpened piece of coat hanger and made a new hole beside the wiring harness to avoid poking a wire in the harness. Still tight as a virgin after 2 years.

Could be on to something. My 2015 has no vibrations, the pocket rocket 2014 I bought used a few months back has the front air dam removed. Anyone else remove the dam and experiencing vibrations, or anyone with the front air dam installed and still vibrating harder than a 1000lb plate packer? if I hit 80mph I am scared the truck is going to come apart, I had my friend follow me and he said he can literally see the truck shaking like crazy. The rear tires are even starting to wear funny because of it, which will only amplify the vibrations.

Would the engine even account for the swap without tuning? The ECU controls a/f, so without accounting for the ability to use more air and in-turn fuel, would the engine operate as normal? Or would the computer realize it has more air availble and adjust itself over time? I assumed no gain would be noticed, but dyno results prove a CAI with no tune can help or hurt gains. I know it was a popular mod to put LS7 TBs on gen III-IV's but most people were tuning for it. Curious to see your results if you can get it on a dyno for a baseline and tuned pull.

^^ Sounds like you have re-engineered 70% of your truck. The 14 WT i just bought does it too, I will be attaching a gopro along the driveline to see if i can detect where the oscillation begins. I was thinking driveshaft but obviously that did not remedy your issue. I will borrow the heavier wheels/tires from my non-vibrating 15 too to see if that changes anything. I cant believe the previous owner put up with it for 100,000km. I am usually under 65mph but over 65, it feels like I am going to shake a wheel off when I pass someone.

I run a 33x12 R20 with a 2.75" (top and bottom spacers) and they still rub. Factory +23mm offset mind you but still. No way are you clearing a 35 without 4" of lift.

Have another dealer look at it. Many will if they can pursuade you into favouring their dealership. They swapped my TC out on my 2015 6.2 8spd before i even got to drive it, awesome truck no issues, no vibration or weird clunky shifts. My 2014 5.3 w/ 6spd is another story, embarrassing to drive really due to Chevy shake.

Interesting theory on the axles, but my 14's vibration is at random. Drove it 8 hours out of town the other week, vibrated like crazy when passing cars. Drove it this week to show a co-worker the vibration at 110-140km/h, no vibration can be felt... There goes all of my theories to what may cause this, tires or driveshaft. My 2015 doesn't shake ever, but the work truck 2014 I just bought does it for a week, stops for a week, starts again, stops again.

Take your driveshaft to a machine shop, for an hour of labour they will spin in up and check the balance, $75. GM will not help you. For example, say only 200,000 trucks total are affected, likely much more but for estimate sake. If the remedy was found to be replacing the driveshaft, yoke and u joints, the parts cost is roughly $500 per unit. That equates to $100,000,000 before labour. Add 1 hr of labour at industry average of $75. Total warranty program cost $115,000,000 GM is not going to do anything about it until people start crashing and getting hurt.

Mine does it too. 2.75" leveled 6.2 on 33x12.5's. Looking for the answer.

You can also go to a salvage yard and cut out a buckle for free. At least they only chime twice, unlike Ford trying to force you to live your life by their rules.