L86 All Terrain

Lol yup, my bad. The electrical box tucked up to the left of your brake pedal.

Check the negative post on your battery to see if the connection is tight, then check grounds to the frame and make sure they are clean and tight. If the problem persists, it is likely a BCM issue. Have GM check your Body (not brake) Control Module out if you don't have a grounding issue.

It's most likely an EPA regulation. Our Class 8's all have auto-shutdown / no idle systems in them. I run lowbed trucks and the newest one will shut itself off even with the PTO engaged. Frustrating, dangerous, and it doesn't save a single drop of fuel because you just restart the truck to finish your work anyway. Seriously, who ever is paid to come up with this stuff over there needs to be slapped in the face with a ball of their own feces.

It can be done of course. But it will cost you more do it than it would to sell the truck and buy one with the engine you want. It sounds like the 6.2L will be available nearly across the board for the 2020 model year. If you have a RCSB, I would hold out to see if you can get a 2020 RCSB with a 6.2L. Your not just swapping the engine, I would assume the ECM would need to be changed or at least reprogrammed. You might have to find a donor 2014 6.2L/6L80e TCM to control the transmission, as that was the only year you could get a 6.2L bolted to a 6L80e. If you can do the work yourself it is probably feasible, but if not you will have $15-20k into that swap by the time your done. And if you do go that route get and LT1 instead of the L86. My advise is keep it V6 and wait for GM to drop info on the 2020's, we will know more shortly.

Hmmm reminds me of this old Chevy ad pulling 187 tons of logs. Looks like the old 170hp pickups were tow monsters too.

Believe me I wanted to, but not a big deal, it's a business truck. I know they were fine, the truck was only 3 years old at the time, GM's components dont rust that fast (with exception to Z71 Ranchos). Maybe they were bad? Canyon calls for 130-150lb-ft on the wheel nuts but I have my doubts. But I also perform service work for this dealer, that happen to have a large expansion plan which would result in a huge job for my company, so I will take the $150 hit rather than spoil the water and miss billing them back lug nuts x 1000.

Nothing is free in today's world, does it honestly surprise you? Took my wife's Canyon in for a free oil change and rotate and came out with a bill for 24 lug nuts for $150 because they "were corroded and wouldn't torque properly" when I asked to see them I was informed they were at the bottom of the scrap bin. This is the type of world we live in today, get used to it, nothing will get any better.

^^I hope your going to put flares on that truck, otherwise kiss your paint good-bye. GM's post-2010 paint is not up to the task of beings pelted with rocks and sandblasted daily.

No it doesn't. It sits as designed and engineered. Trucks are designed to carry loads, when front-only levelled trucks have a load on, they are sacked out with their lights pointing into the sky, subsequently pissing off every single driver you meet head on at night. But hey, we were all young once, so you just do you.

Really? My 6.2L sits at 12.8L/100km on 33x12.5 10ply's and I thought that was pretty bad. My CCLB 6.0L does 20L/100. No range, but my 6.2L rarely goes into V4 unless in town. I figured lowering would improve mileage. I was hoping Trumpy in the US would slap the shit out of the EPA a little bit on these ridiculous economy demands, but he hasn't done that yet. Now GM's focus is autonomous electrics. Scary stuff. Until then we are going to get sketchy technologies like the diesel EGR and DEF, the unreliable and rough AFM and Start/Stop insanity, that save about $10 in gas per year but costs you $10,000 when it fails. OP let us know the invoice value when all the work gets done.

If the AFM lifter collapse, it can put pressure on the pushrod and damage a cam lobe. You are lucky they are changing the camshaft too, makes me wonder how many just get new lifters put in the top end then kicked out the door without ever even looking at the bottom end. Pretty sad state of affairs but what can we do? EPA regulates GM and all automakers into reinventing the wheel every 2-3 years so we get unproven and unreliable technologies to meet their ridiculous demands. Who ends up paying for all this crap on the long haul? The consumer of course. Have to keep that snowball economy growing until it cant anymore.

Tint your windows, will take the interior temps down 10-15 degrees.

I hate these systems and I find it hard to believe that your engine burns more gas idling at a stop light for 17 seconds than it does cranking it over and re-starting it every 5 seconds. I laugh at everyone's vehicle starting at the lights. Delays traffic too, causing more greenhouse gases when 4 of these cars in a row all have that system and take an extra second to get rolling. My 15L Caterpillar engines burn 1 gallon per hour on idle. What does a 5.3L burn? Probably less than 1/4gal (1 Litre) per hour. So your saving about 10mL, or 10 drops of gas at each light. Probably take 200mL to restart truck each time.

The new 2019's don't have a trailering mirror on the 1/2ton trucks even with the NHT Trailering package? That seems very odd. You will probably have to wait for the HD's to be sold if that is the case, if you don't want goofy clip-ons. Just looking at the doors of the new HD, looks like the mirror mount will be similar to the 1/2 ton. Us K2 guys could mount the HD or NHT mirrors on our trucks by drilling one additional hole in the door for a 3rd mounting bolt the HD/NHT mirrors had, we had to get fancy with some pinning of the BCM if you had an LT trim and wanted your mirrors to have the puddle light, power fold, marker/signal, auto-dim, heat and power mirror. PGamboa is a member on here who is a wiring wizard and will probably design and sell harnesses when the 2020 mirrors are available for you guys. Keep his name in your mind.

The second way you loaded your Bobcat is correct, the first way (bobcat reversed on) you have too much tongue weight which is giving you the heavy squat. Skid steers are ass heavy, this is to counter the weight of your bucket full of dirt or heavy attachments. If you back them on, the machine should sit directly over the axles, with the engine access door maybe sitting 1-2 feet in front of the forward axle. Flip up your ramps onto the beavertail then set your mower down on top of the ramps.

Its to block cold air, bees and dragonflies from cracking the lines of our Chineseium coolers. Funny how they up the price $10k every generation yet somehow more and more parts get made in inferior countries with inferior materials. More money, less quality.

^^Nice set up for sure, if you are still a little tongue heavy like that you could try backing the second up right to the ramps, sometimes only a few inches can result in a hundred lbs off the hitch. If not back it on in the same spot you have it and you will be bang on. Your truck looks like it is sitting about perfect so an equalizer hitch probably isn't necessary but will give you peace of mind. My company low beds excavators and stuff around, we are always playing with different machines and axle combinations to make sure we don't get pinched at the scales.

So do I, up to 8,000lbs with my little levelled half ton. The reason I say that is by only putting the front kit in, you are taking the rake out of the truck, so you will be squatted and look overloaded with even the smallest loads. The rake is there with the rear blocks so the truck rides level with a payload (what they were designed for). Without the rear blocks, your front end is pointed at the sky, your rear end is sacked, and everyone high beams you at night. I say do the front kit only if your a looks guy that treats the truck more of a sports car than a truck, do the rear blocks also if you actually have to do truck stuff.

My spec AT4 right now is $76,100CAD OTD ($56,500usd). Dbl Cab SLT 6.2L. and that is at ZERO % aand $5k msrp off. Still haven't pulled the trigger as my same spec 2015 was over $13K less and my same spec 2010 was $31k less. I get a jump due to steel prices and inflation, but that pricing is out to lunch. They want $100k for a Denali Diesel these days, the last Dmax I bought new was in 2005, and I thought it was insanely expensive then at $40,000.

You will need to know the balance of the UTV's, they are probably rear-weight biased a bit 60% rear, 40% front most likely, or closer to 55/45. You will then have to determine how to load, probably drive the first one in and leave as close to the axles as you can while still having room for UTV2, reverse the second bike in so that most of it is hanging out to the rear of the axles. You should be about right. The best way to figure it out is tow your setup to a scale, unload the bikes and get some axle weights empty, then load the bikes and re-check, you can move them around a few different ways to see how your load is best distributed. I have a snowmobile trailer with a centre single axle, I have to reverse my UTV on it so I have tongue weight, if I drive it on, it has so little tongue weight I can lift it with one finger.

The cure to vibrations in these trucks is to rebuild the back half of the entire truck and replace the Chinesium/Mexican parts for quality, in spec US made parts. Swap your drive shaft, axle shafts, pinion, brake rotors, leaf springs, shocks, and hubs and you might have a truck to stand on. Junk quality parts, poor quality control, and horrible warranty service. Their answer to this problem will always be "can not reproduce symptom" or "road force balance tires" because they know they made a piece of crap and GM wont spend the money to back it up. Screwing over customers and over-charging for your products, then not supporting the consumers when the problems surface is a quick way to bankruptcy and another taxpayer funded bailout. If we wanted vibrators we would have bought a Caterpillar compactor.

If you run your OEM tires in winter, they are P rated. A car tire. When you bought your Hankook's, the tire shop would not dare sell you a P rated tire for a truck unless you specifically requested it. They would have sold you an LT tire, which is a much stiffer tire. Rancho's on the Z71's ride a lot stiffer than the regular suspension, but I preffer the ride. The truck handles well, like a sports car in comparison to a floaty, soft, body-roll filled standard Z83/85 suspension. Being that you have 17" rims I cant see them selling you an E-load tire.

I had to do them on our Canyon at 80,000km (50,000 miles.) I was pretty disappointed in the OEM quality having to do them that early on a pavement-pounder. But what can you expect, most of the parts these days are made in China using inferior steels, probably by a child. Build them cheaper and charge double, keep up the good work and you will be crying to be bailed out again soon.

This sub box appears to be plastic, is that common these days? Ours were always made from MDF board back in the day. Plastic seems like it would creak and rattle under bass, like the interior of my old 98 did when I last had subs.

Just examine them like a normal human would and turn off that stupid function. I would think people do a proper inspection of their vehicle from time to time, rather than waiting for electronic systems to tell you to change wear parts? "Hey OnStar, are my lug nuts still fastened?"