batman900

True enough. Just ordered a JLT catch can after watching their install video. I was instantly sold once I saw the oem style hoses they use. Price was good too. Also got my Range DFM delete plug-in on the way.

Haha, I had one on my 2015 Z71 that caught a ton!! But without anyone having an issue i'm just debating if I want to mess with it again.

Has a single person with a 2014+ encountered an issue with build up due to direct injection?

Around 10k off seems typical / decent off any new Silverado right now especially if it is a desirable trim. If it only has 85 miles....... That is barely more than a couple of test drives from most lots. I drive around for at least 30 minutes before I buy and sometimes I don't end up purchasing so that's at least 25-35 miles. I don't understand how anyone could have purchased and then traded and it still has less than 100 miles on it? Maybe a dealer trade? Anyways, at that mileage I wouldn't consider the truck used. Edit: You might wanna Carfax it before wasting any time to go look at it. They may be reporting the miles wrong.

Cleaned out the engine bay. Opened the hood on my new purchase and I think something was living in there lol. I honestly have no idea where all the insulation came from, I can't find anywhere that it was removed from on my truck. Firewall and everything looks normal, no chewed wires thank the lord. Not the first time this has happened. On my buddies new 2018 a couple years ago I removed a litter of kittens.

The price was a mistake lol but they honored it. I edited but you replied fast haha.

Shout out to Classic of Denison TX. They have built their name on being honorable and it was tested today but they stood tall. Long story short, I've been shopping a while and have insomnia due to spinal steroid injections. At 3am this morning I was checking prices for the new month and saw some large mark downs at Classic. I may have thought it was a mistake but it was on all of the service loaners so I figured they were clearing them out and I had gotten lucky catching the clearance at the right time, there was actually a discount listed as (5) which said clearance. They had one truck I wanted and I got there at opening after driving down from Oklahoma. Current mileage on the truck was 3,750. 5.3L RST CC Texas edition with some extras. MSRP $45975.00. Selling price $28,121.00. (Not including TTL) Total savings $17,854.00 I'm happy. Edit: The price was very very wrong, by a lot but they honored it.

This is the newest one of these I could find so I'm bumping. I don't drive enough to be a good statistic.

Thank you that is great info! 4.6 isn't the end of the world until I find time to refi.

Nah that's a lie, I've purchased 2 Chevy trucks in the last 3 years and my buddy got one last year. We always refi as soon as the title shows up. The finance guy even admitted to me that they won't get their kick back if we don't wait at least 3 months but there's no penalty. I'm just wondering if it's still something dumb like 7.8% lol

What is the trash GM finance rate right right now? I hate knowing that I will 99% have to refinance after getting my title for the rebates, just a hassle.

Ain't that the truth, I started thinking about a Trail Boss but no way right now. It was nothing to get 14k or more off a few months back, now if you can swing 10k your stealing it and no one has anything. Test drove a Tundra TRD Off-Road today but man that truck is a piece of crap IMO. Drove 2 of them, the alignment was so bad on both it felt like they had been driven through a canyon before they made it to the dealership among the other negatives that put me off..... They may last 500k miles but I would have hated every day of it. I'll wait for a post COVID made Trail Boss at a better price.

Getting all the rebates and 0% has never been a thing. People usually post their up front discount not including the interest that may or may not be paid over 60-72 months based on interest rates, when they pay the vehicle off, trade etc that differ by individual and location.

I am wondering the same. Replacing the camera would actually be really easy "it looks like." Remove the tailgate flat bottom plastic cover and then from there you can remove the top plastic cover. Camera is held by 2 screws and uses a simple connector that you can pull right off and plug back in to the new hd cam.

Just pulled off my tailgate cover to check my wiring, it's funny, I thought it was so cool that they included these covers now so I don't gotta buy one to protect the metal but after removing it..... I realized it's there because there's almost nothing underneath lmao, just some cross braces, otherwise it's all hollow. Anyways, found a couple wires were pinched but nothing loose, I adjust the wires and then went under the truck. All my wires under the bed from the tailgate were just dangling and the clips were pulled out, I'm guessing the lazy people that did the spray in bed liner before I purchased the truck couldn't be bothered. Had to drop the spare tire to reach them and got it all tidied back up and in place. None of this made any difference. Did a test drive and the camera still flickers when I push on the brake pedal, which means it's also still going to give me the random service camera error. Note that I have the cheap camera and cheap radio, dunno if they can even update these things like yall can the HD stuff. At least the glue I applied to my mirror cap while I was out there seems to be holding, hasn't popped back out yet haha.

Your amazing Shawn!

I recently dropped one of the air box screws when putting my AEM filter in and it took prayer to find it.

Glad everyone is keeping this updated. I was going to ask my dealer about it tomorrow when I take my truck in for the recalls but I'd rather not have them throwing parts at it if there's not a fix.

What the hell is up with that wounded elephant sound !!!! Mine started that about a week ago and it freaked me out! Only when backing up and it’s loud as shit! 3100 miles 5 months old.

Was hoping I never did but I had a similar issue recently when pulling a trailer. Loaded up I had zero problems but on the way back with no load, I came to a stop sign twice and the brake pedal was hard as concrete with almost no travel. I rolled into the intersection both times while mashing the pedal. Luckily I live in a small town with very little traffic. No errors or dash lights, I haven't had the recent recalls done because they made me worried they would cause other issues as people have posted. Edit, currently at 2900 miles with build date April 17 2019.

Sad to see the 2020 is still having these problems. Also makes me wonder if the dealers throwing parts at the issue are actually doing to resolve it. Curious if everyone waiting weeks and months for said parts could have just pulled the battery cable.

Good lord man, I never thought I'd see you get the truck back while following these posts. Hopefully yours stays fixed, I saw @Booger T post on the previous page where it happened to him again after the fix was done months ago.

My 2018 did it and at 13k miles the noise was gone. My 2019 just started doing it at 2k miles, not worried.

For anyone that knows the build date of their truck and has / had this issue, would you mind adding that date? I'm just curious if the released software update back in March? Fixed anything for the trucks that were made afterwords. It also seems that some dealers are jumping straight to a parts replacement solution and some are doing the software fix. Trying to piece that together.

Anyone know where this cable is coming loose at and how to get to it? When in reverse and I touch the brakes the screen will flicker, it's only given me the blue screen error once and then went back to normal.