Grumpy Bear

Don't confuse these two. The top is oxidation onset temperature based on oil temperature. The second temperature appropriate SAE viscosity verses air temperature.

Some friendly advice? Don't get in the water while the piranha are eating each other.

How much instrumentation does your vehicle have? My bet is about enough to keep you ignorant and that kids is by design. One of the best examples of "Out of sight, out of mind". How many people believe that because you motor is water cooled the oil temperature is pretty much constant? Raise your hand. Yep, what I thought. Nearly all. C'mon on now, intuitively you know that isn't true but even if you do my next winning bet is you cannot define that relationship or are even are aware one exists. I've put this chart up before but I'll post it again here to remind you that bearing temperature and pan temperature are different in the same water cooled motor. There is a very wide and varied set of temperatures within a working engine. These temperatures that live within this tempered water system vary and vary allot and not just by where in the motor but under what operating conditions they are subject to. More load, more heat. More rpm, more heat. Hot day where the water thermostat is no longer maintaining 3 degrees off cracking temperature but is now 20 degrees over that mark adds heat to the oil. The base oil selection has a pretty big impact on pan temperatures for the same loads as I have posted before from Peppers data. It is why this chart exists: Your oil doesn't live in a lab or reside in a report or a study. Again from this link: https://selectsynthetics.com/part-3--what-oil-grade-should-i-use-.html For example, the Owner's Manual for my 2014 Sorento EX (3.3L non-turbo V-6) states: "For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 [although 5W-20 would actually be better for fuel economy] API SM/ILSAC GF-4 [API SN PLUS/ILSAC GF-5 are now the latest specs]. However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart." The 'viscosity chart' lists two other acceptable multi-grades (SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-40). In fact you will find this statement in the Mitsubishi Euro/British/Aussie owners manuals and those of many other makes and marks. You can't even find 0W20 in many markets. Saudi Arabia, North Africa any. to example a few. I've seen a few times 255 F in the pan of Pepper early on. Light oil, lower gear on the highway and not even the much load. Just spinning it up for longer than a hot second. Investigating and exploring her cooling limits. Oil limits and what I do as far as oil choice and modifications is from work like that. Instrument it, study it and no eating guppy food. That's shouldn't confuse anyone. Nor should it confuse anyone that I don't have to learn the same lessons with each new vehicle. I get a better first choice every time. And I share that so you don't have to either. But it's yours....

$2.92 several stations now.

From an AMSOIL site The discussion is informative https://selectsynthetics.com/part-3-...ld-i-use-.html How the writer got to +30 C / 86 F for a *W20 I haven't an idea. But giving him the benefit of my doubts I ask myself how many days a year in my area the air temperature exceeds 86 F and the answer to that is statistically about 10 days a year between June 1 and August 31. Beyond the reach of 0W20 10 days a year. Beyond the reach of 5W30 a few days a year. That is doable with mindful operation. Our local record is 104 F / 40C. That lands me in SAE 40 territory. Cold side? Our coldest month historically is Jan at -9.9 C / 14 F. But our record is -33 C / -27 F. Like antifreeze you plan for the worst not the average. Here, that's a 5W* Not a hard process to find the best temperature based protection. 5W40. Why 0W20 then? It's a odds play and a C.A.F.E. play. And a designed obsolescence play. Something the public has been groomed for decades to believe. Since I was a child. A pill I never swallowed.

https://floridatorqueconverters.com/Torque-Converter-77-JMBXSD.html You haven't killed it yet. But keeping the GM converter will assure you will. Have you done the 70C TBV yet? Have you been diligent about fluid changes on the severe schedule? 30K intervals? Heat and a weak converter clutch cover kill them often and hard. Clutch frags, eats the pump, clutches, valve body. So if it's doing well, do the upgrades, do the services and drive the current ride into the ground. Way cheaper to keep her and the upgrades and services way cheaper than a new or even rebuilt unit.

A few at $2.99

You all know the difference between the foot a carpenter measures and the foot a machinist measures and the foot the National Bureau of Standards measures, right? The degree of precision required depends on the task at hand. The seller is good with anything within the short side of legal with a nod and a wink but the buyer want's exactitude. The bean counters want exactitude. The Engineer wants it to work with enough cushion to cover the reasonably unknown and unforeseeable. The Consumer wants to never worry no matter how silly he is in using that product. Two of those three are going to be disappointed. If I live in the bean counters world I'd never start my truck. When I live in the Engineers world I'm mindful of it's design limits and accommodate them if possible and look for ways to eliminate it's insufficiencies. Find the weak link and modify as required. They guy in the Consumers world runs it be damned and lives with whatever consequences are met out. Then cries and whines "It shouldn't do that"! And he/she's right, it shouldn't but it does. This pickup I own has a tow/haul rating but the OEM knows that 98% of all users will never put more than a bag of sand in the bed or ever put a hitch on it so the cooling system is designed such and even on very hot days it's not quite up to the scrutiny of the National Bureau of Standards types of performance. It's flat out of control in town on a steamy day but as a percentage of it's working life that is well withing the number of bends one can subject a coat hanger to without breaking. Consumer doesn't notice, bean counters are happy and the engineer looks away. None of that means there isn't an issue that can and should be addressed. Most of the vehicles I've bought the last two decades have cooling limits I'd rather they didn't or lubrication issues that are shameful so I'm mindful, accommodating as much as possible and always looking for solutions to expand my operating window and lengthen my beloved machines life. None of it has to be done if you don't mind the limit that places on you. And there is the stumbling block. An Engineer writing to the consumer who sees only the consumers viewpoint. Are not interested in anything but that view point and would rather whine and cry "It shouldn't do that" than do something about it even if shown the "why, what and how" to to accomplish it. They would rather continue to bend the coat hanger, toss it before it breaks and look at coat hangers as indestructible.

Raven 7/21/2025 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.2 liter triple 26,073 miles on unit 3,573 OCI (3,750 nominal target) Pulled sample early due to long lead times. Lab Oil Analyzers (AMSOIL) Thank you Nick for all you do for me. Red Line HP Euro Series 5W40 + 2 oz of Red Line ZDDP additive. Boosted to SH levels. 1200 ppm minimum. Dropped water temperature 10 F with Stant Superstat this OCI. Had an event this OCI. Punctured radiator and temp spike. Seems this brew did it's job. Iron and aluminum only wear metals to show up and continuing to decline. Both under 1 ppm/K miles. Total just over 1 ppm. Nitration and oxidation nil. 2 abs units over VOA Viscosity at 1.3% shear. TBN, plenty left, 74% of VOA. Hovering 5 mg KOH/gr Oil color is awesome. Still light amber This oil is not stressed but I will hold this OCI length until wear bottoms out. Still in data mode. Silicon is the only concern and until I can find a better filter, tis what it is. Doesn't seem to be bothering the power cylinder. This next OCI is the last of the original batch number. (Green Dots)

Wait! WHAT? No, no, I get it, but that was just to easy. Sorry Don't believe the internet just the AI on it. Got it. AI is dead on this time. It understands business when It says this. A person is an idiot when they say it's true. Here's my unsolicited take on things like C.A.F.E. Goals are good. Goals that improve life; better. Goals that create impossible situations to favor one sector over another, bad and I mean really bad. They are not 'fixing' anything. Air quality improvement was a headline story over COVID and people still drove, just less so. The lesson was NOT elimination. It was reduction. Reduction to a point the earths natural defensed can handle it. But that requires not just regulations, sensible regulation, but also cooperation and kids people don't want problems fixed when it imposes on their 'right' to do as they please instead of 'do as they ought'.

I'd let it go a good long while so even after the condition was remediated by drug therapy the constant sensation lasted for months before relief came. Much faster after some education. But I'm much better now. 5 to 7 hours now doable at night. The body is an amazing machine isn't it? Incredible in design!

My very first alignment, which was very early showed some rear camber. Air pressure or slightly different diameters or tube not welded in dead straight or stack up of all three or even the sensor not set up square. That was 189K miles ago. Showed some toe, which is possible if the axle isn't square to the trucks centerline. Note the trust angle is about half the total rear toe? First set of tires went 125K and dead flat wear. Non-problem.

Happy wife, happy life. I'd bet under book a mile. Don't park it in the garage unless you have a killer fire suppression system. Halon anyone!?

After tonight's broadcast I'm offering John Stewart this choice of law firms to represent him. Dewey, Cheatem & Howe Haders, Baiteum & Batt Maxwell's Silver Hammer Esq.

#2 is a must if #4 is your choice. If you stick to #2 & #4 then #3 is redundant. #1 is meh. IMO. It ain't that fragile. Getting good parts from the get is always a toss of the coin, but once you have 20K miles or so, it isn't metallurgy anymore. It's the lubrication regime. Enough viscosity, enough AW and clean and I mean clean. Not some varnish, NO varnish. My 2 cents. If they are going to break from being broke it happens early. If they break later they got deposit issues messing with oil flow and pressure. How many miles you have on this thing? Warranty, dealers etc. like to keep a guy scared and broke. Talk to Nick. Poster right above me. Get a membership and use a oil with some solvency. AMSOIL SS is such an oil. 5W30 minimum.

Knowledge, Understanding, Wisdom You are looking down the tracks and off in the distance you hear a rumble and a horn. You know that sound. Shortly, as far as you can see, a light appears and the form of the engine become evident. You realize it is a train That's Knowledge As it bears down on you, you realize that if you stay where you are you are going to get struck by it. Likely die. That's Understanding If you decide it's time to step off the tracks and actually move out of it's path to prevent being killed... That's Wisdom A lot of people that drive posses no knowledge of oil maintenance. I write to help them acquire that knowledge. A good deal more people have some knowledge but lack understanding and they fall into two classes; students and the willfully ignorant. Students learn. Willfully ignorant people laugh and disrupt. Every class room has a few. They think they have a handle on something they do not and of course they see themselves as wise and in a position to mock. And even a few more have Knowledge and Understanding and should be themselves teachers, and yet refuse wisdom for profit. They always see the cost of greater value than the prize. Themselves as more important than the lessons and students. They make it hard for true students to learn and that friends is selfish. It takes allot of volume to cut the noise of distractions and volume I'm good with. There is also this. An instructor knows that not every real student learns the same way and so he presents the same information is as many forms and formats as it takes for the body to acquire all of the mentioned attributes of learning. He also knows that knowledge isn't stagnate and that as an instructor he learns the most and as he does the lesson plan changes to reflect that better understanding or reflect a better presentation. When disruptors stick around after voicing their complaint, their point isn't honest or useful. Just selfish.

How did you find one not all rattle caned? (Humor Ryan, humor)

At least 3 more years of confusion.

E85 up 20 cents. The rest of the majors regular prices go up and down with out connection or direction. Yep, made up.

Lots of wishful thinking. IMO anyway.

274,000 Mile Service 7/20/2025 1,000 OCI nominal 5 quarts Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 and no filter Used a bit more with the 10W40 HM. An additional 4 ounces.

Boutique Myth Most boutique oils come with some claim of insanely long OCI's. One even claims you never have to change oil again. Those claims often an extension of the OEM's fairytale and misleading OCI lengths, so it follows that to promote ones worth we must deal in some "One upmanship". If you are dealing with a gullible public than anything is possible. If your dealing with one a bit more attune you can still get away with nearly anything with the right benchmarks firmly indoctrinated into their gray matter. All it takes is a few well placed marketing phrases nicely graphed out to look like the results of actual studies and claims unhinged from points of reference. But the truth is more subtle. NO oil last as long as one is lead to believe and the improvements between base oil classes are measured in a dozen or two of degrees, NOT hundreds. Differences in OCI's in a thousand or two and not is doubling or tripling or extinction of need. The OEM change limits are based on "perfection' and most reputable (are there any?) have two schedules. Perfect and severe and severe is anything not driving on a dyno on a roof top in a Mobil lab. Forget for a minute the impact viscosity has on wear abatement. Wear is also a function of cleanliness and add pack level active retention. This has been studied to death and has been for decades to the exact same conclusion. There is a cause and effect relationship between the TBH/TAN relationship and wear. The only thing that has changed is the point on that curve some regulator or bean counting counter engineering individual has decided is 'What you deserve'. They don't improve the product to get a better result at a longer interval. They move it to the right in spite of reality. When placed in perspective many boutiques are light years ahead of shelf oils but without stating that shelf oils have a very short operational life then any claim possible is possible. Short lives of shelf oils are evident when actual lab generated values for condemnation levels are observed instead of fanciful wishing and misstated conclusions from actual science. Quick example then: When is the last time you saw a routine cleanliness test on a UOA? And in the rare case you see one showing condemnation levels have been reached you will also get huge pushback on the accuracy and validity of the test method no matter which one is in play. Hey....it's an ASTM verified method in use. Challenging the method is exactly the same as challenging 2+2=4. In this rant I have set no values...give that some note.

I'd let it go long enough I had to retrain the bladder. Didn't even know that was a thing. Takes some time but doable. I find, in my case, it is less about how much I drink after say, 6 PM and more about what I drink. Caffein and sugar bad, water good. Even water with a bit of bourbon in it. Easy now.... Oh, and don't forget your pill. Missing a day makes the next evening notable. Not horrid or embarrassing but different.

Your hot temperature is whatever your normal hot temp is, not a target in a book. That number is the value for a system with known ranges modulated by a thermal bypass valve. In my 2015 the hot read was done when it was over 192F to insure the TBV was open and the cooler full. When I added the 70 C TBV it never got that hot. About 175 is tops on a hot day now with the lower water thermostat. When adding a huge cooler I have to ask if a TBV is in play if so what the fully open temperature is. If not then I'd fill to the cold line following the book procedure of working the valve body to purge air and go with the cold reading. I doubt given the size of the cooler that if there isn't a TBV it will ever get hot enough to puke the breather or foam.

26,226 Mile Service 7/18/2025 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage G4 ES 1.2 liter MPFI triple / JATCO CVT 3,726 mile OCI 3 quarts 4 ounces Red Line HP Euro Spec 5W40 = 2 ounces RLBIA 1 FRAM XG7317 Filter. It's what they had. Sample to the lab yesterday. Pulled at 3,573 miles. This is the oil change the radiator was compromised.