RDKILL

Well since I have a tune, I'll chime in. First off...I'm not a badass...LOL! I'm more of a lazy ass, so I went with BlackBear Performance. Paid them $500, had Justin do his magic and all is good. He took care of the AFM, did some TCM, acceleration response and 50/50 93 oct/E85. What is great about using BBP, is every time I do a mod, I let them know and they'll email a tune to take full advantage of the mod. CAI - Tuned True Dual exhaust - Tuned If I install headers - I can ask for a tune...free! Soon I'll be getting an E85 sensor and get a 100% tune, where I can run either 93oct or E85 100% when/as I want. And other than the mods, I spent $500...3x less than my true dual exhaust, but both are a one time purchase. Put my truck back to stock when taking to the dealer for a recall, they did not say a thing about my tune...not sure if they know it or not. When I got home, hooked up my AutoCal and reloaded my tune...simple and easy and back to Varooming! When I step on it, my truck will chirp when shifting to second, maybe its the tune or maybe I just need new tires! I have no experience with any other tuner, but I'm sure they all serve a unique purpose for each individual's wants/needs. I went with BBP because they do all the work and I think it is well worth the $500! Happy Tuning...I mean Christmas!!

I agree...I have a 2016 Silverado and have been running 50/50 93oct and E85 for almost 2 years with no issues. BBP did the tune so I can run the 50/50, but when I get the sensor (from DSX Tuning $300) installation should be straight forward due to the fact that GM has the harness for the sensor zip tied on the frame under the truck. If the harness wasn't there, then I could see there may be other parts that may be needed, but at this point it seems all I need is the sensor and a tune to run 100% E85. This makes sense from a manufacturer's point of view, only need to add a sensor and tune for customers purchasing a FF truck...quick and easy no real increase in man power hours, as oppose to change out the fuel lines, fuel pump, injectors etc. Keep in mind, what is mentioned above is my experience with running E85 in my non-FF truck and opinion, this is only information. What you do with your truck is on your dime, and responsibility.

When you say "binding" do mean while turning? I guess going 3" should be safe then...and it seems I can always go up to 2" if needed with this kit.

Yeah that's what I thought too, but I'm going to call them on Monday to ask about their recommendations to not go lower than 2" on the front, when the kit allows to go lower. I see they wrote so you don't have complications with your 4x4 drive, but wonder if that's just due to ground clearance or something else.

Man how low are you going? I'm already thinking about oil change difficulties with a 3/5, spoiled now that I can just crawl under and flip my Fumoto valve and drain...LOL! Doesn't a C notch weaken the rear frame of the truck? Or, are the reinforcements that are welded in place to make up for the strength the notch seems to remove? It just seems at the apex of the notch it will be a weak point especially if hit from the back in an accident...like the frame would buckle at that point?

Just watched a vid on C notching a Chevy...I don't think I'll be doing that any time soon!

I just saw this kit McGaughys Part # 34170-2 which has spinles, but they don't recommend going lower than 2" in the front...which I can live with. It mentioned if going really low in the rear you need a C notch, which I don't plan to go any lower than 4 or 5 in the rear. However, what is a C notch?

I'll check out McGaughys as well...were you the one that said the ride is a little harsh with McGaughys? If not sorry, maybe I saw that on a vid in a comparo...too much info to analyze!

Ahhh...this is what I was afraid of and thought the OEM spindles would not allow this to happen, but now that I think about it the strut would/could cause this as opposed to the spindles...Thank you for the heads up!

Yes, I just checked the sight, and I have cast control arms. My truck is an early 2016, and the kits say aluminum. I'll reach out the to sales person I talked to earlier to see if they have spindles for cast CA...Thanks!

Are you using these on your truck? If so, do you know the kit number?

Can you elaborate on why you feel this way, and have you used MaxTrac before or know of anyone that has?

Looking at 2 different kits...2/4 & 3/5 from 2 different manufacturers. I know there's a lot of people using the BellTech 2/4, but does anyone have experience with MaxTrac 3/5. Belltech lowers the front with struts, where MaxTrac lowers the front with spindles and springs. My thought is with Belltech the use of struts only and keeping the OEM spindles may have less chances of bad handling characteristics/fit issues, should the spindles be slightly off one way or another. However, I'm not sure if this has happened or how good their kits are quality wise..hence any experience with MaxTrac spindles and springs? Another question, how much carrying capacity is lost when the rear is lowered without using bags?

If I cut the bump stops, will that mean I can't go back to stock later?

I have the same truck and color! Nasty, what is not good about the 2/4? Not that I was thinking of that combo...I wanted to go as you mentioned 3/5, but didn't want to flip the axle and make cuts. So, I'm on the fence and thinking of just removing the rear blocks and 2" shackle, but I would think my ass would be too low and front at stock height? Also, does lowering the truck help diminish roll during turns or is there a stiffer sway bar and springs that need to be changed out? I don't mind a stiff suspension as long as it does what it's supposed to do and there's no hacking/welding on the frame.

I'm looking to get the same kit from Belltech 6401 and from what I've read you'll need to: Remove the tow hitch. Bend the pinch weld on the bed to get the top shackle bolt out Or raise the bed. If you want 3" you'll need to remove the 1" spacer between the leaf spring and axle. If you only want 2" no need to remove spacer. If removing the spacer be sure to line up the reference pin on the axle back into the leaf spring pack. If you want to make things a little easier, removing the spare is optional. Be sure the jack stands and jack are position correctly for optimum safety.

Looking under my truck just forward of the fuel tank, I see two metal fuel tubes coming/going to the fuel tank. I'm not sure which tube is going in and which is going out. Does anyone know for sure which tube the sensor would be grafted/installed to? I see the wire harness is tied up near the tubing, so I'm assuming this is the area the sensor would be installed, just not sure which tube...hate to cut the wrong one!

Thank you, I realize that is the case, but was just wondering what nkoenig did being that he mentioned the kit may not be needed. I have seen performance increase with just a tune, but I am thinking of getting in touch with CJ to explore the kit. BBP has told me that would be the best way to take full advantage of the fuel...just like if I added headers, cam, supercharger etc.

What did you do? Did you get an E85 tune and/or a sensor, or just a tune? On another note: I did the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner and boy what a difference it made!

Marv, your Truck/sound system is looking great! Nice vid on how to remove the OEM stereo, although I don't have that kind of patients when removing trim pieces..LOL! You make some nice sound boxes, good skill bro!

LOL! You need to read my post a little closer...I run 93 only in the cold winter months, so yes I have with no problems.

Now this may be the difference between a tune and a sensor. I think with a sensor I would be able to run 100% E85 if I wanted to...just need to confirm if I would be able to do 93 also, which I can't see why not, but better to verify first. I could use an additional 25 ponies.

Sorry to inform you, but your hypothetical analysis is incorrect. My truck is tuned to run a 50/50 mix, and if I choose to, I can run 100% 93oct and not have any problems...I just can't run 100% E85. I run 93 only during the cold winter months without a problem, so no biggie other than loss of performance if there's no E85 available. This is factual and true data.

So how is the sensor different from a tune? They both talk to the ECU to do operate the vehicle correctly without throwing a CEL. I guess I should ask this question to BBP and see what they say.

LOL! They don't do Fords...to each his own I guess...but that's what I did and I have no problems and great acceleration/pull. Of course I also had them tune my tranny which helps with staying in the right gear longer.