TXGREEK

Almost forgot, having 20’s and doing a level will not allow you to go any bigger without new wheels unless of course you don’t mind having that horrible rubbing sound at 3/4+ turn. I was forced to get new wheels going from just a stock 275/55/20 to a 275/60/20. Bought plus 1 offset wheels and the rest is history. Sent from above

Really just depends on going larger size (weight) and tread pattern. The larger the lugs the more resistance, causes loss of mpg’s. Stock was getting approx 23mpg. With 33’s and a 2.25” level I was approximately 21 mpg’s, going from level to lifted with these 34” Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I’m getting approx 18-19 doing 75 mph in Texas and this is with a 2018 CC Z71 6.2. Leveled 4.5-5” CST Lift A note: E or F rated tires ride much rougher than P or C rated tires. If you’re interested in the AT look I’d look into KO2’s C rated if they’ve got them. I had KO2’s on before Nitto Ridge Grapplers and IMHO rode a bit smoother than these Nittos. The taller the side wall the smoother the ride too, just thought you should know if you didn’t already Sent from above

You need a set of these Much Quieter than MT’s Sent from above

Yeah, I’ve tried getting people more interested in coil overs being lifted or leveled but to each their own. Good job. Mine are 650 Sent from above

Great decision installing coil overs. Truck looks great! Are those 650 rated springs? Sent from above

If you can afford it, buy Michelin along with Bilsteins for a much better ride along with peace of mind. Sent from above

It’s a major safety concern, they’re ticking time bombs. This is why I always recommend to ditch the oem tires and shocks, I’d get rid of them ASAP! If you’re looking for all season tires I’d look at Michelin Defenders, smooth excellent riding tires that are now designed to handle more power and torque from newer trucks. Excellent tire! Sent from above

Thank you, I believe it was leveled there with Fuel 20x9 +1 offset, wrapped with 275/60/20 KO2’s. Currently, CST 4.5-5” lift with same wheels but wrapped with 295/60/20 (34”) Nitto Ridge Grapplers Sent from above

Won’t speculate or just guess but I’m sure it quite possibly a simple fix. Sent from above

What’s in the owner manual is proven scientifically through highly trained “real” engineers not working on assumptions rather years of experience under their belts knowing better because they’re the ones that built the damn motors in the first place, through success and failures and what works best in order to achieve longer life spans for the engines they’ve created. I find it hysterical how a few in these forums babble on and try to rewrite the specs in an owner manual. Personally, I think there’s a lot of BS assumptions in these forums and it’s a dangerous direction to follow. IMHO, I use only Amsoil and this is only my personal experience, noticing a smoother running engine is proof for me specially being that it’s real 100% synthetic and not that misleading “Full Synthetic” and stick to what’s in the owners manual. In addition, anyone in these forums that think they’re smarter than the ones that built these motors, I’d appreciate you sending your thoughts to the auto manufacturers engineers and please make sure to post their replies. Sent from above

I’m wondering if running Amsoil Signature Series “100% Synthetic” helps with valves gumming up cause I found with Mobile One Full Synthetic Annual protection and the Amsoil Signature series both being 0W20. Both oils were light tan in color new. Mobile one 500 miles was black in color Amsoil 500 miles was light tan in color Theory would be that a 100% man made synth oil burns and carbons less than an engine oil with conventional oil. This being I’m assuming you’ll have less carbon buildup on the valves. I’m not going to start probing my engine and taking it apart in order to test this theory but this was interesting non the less, Amsoil (visually) seems to burn and breakdown much slower. I’m currently using Amsoil in everything except the Transmission fluid as it’s only got 16k on it with zero issues. Summer time in Texas, it gets VERY HOT, I’m going to run 5w30 and see if there’s any difference at all on mileage or the way the engine runs. Sent from above

I’d sell it, keep what you’ve got till you can save up for a really good lift. Your suspension is the building block of your whole truck, doesn’t matter how much you put into your wheels but it does when it come to ride quality and performance. You don’t want to get into something for the looks, get into it for the quality, years of worry free driving Sent from above

I know, that’s the only size he’ll be able to put on without level but with level not even that without rubbing Sent from above

I promise you, you’ll be rubbing as soon as you turn to pull out of the tire shop. Not doing the leveling kit having it stock will allow you 275/60/20’s and that’s it without rubbing. As you can see I had new wheels installed with a plus 1 offset just to fit the 33’s. Sent from above

Here’s what I had on my truck, along with brand new 5100’s all the way around. Rode Horrible with the leveling kit. Switched to this CST 4.5”-5” lift with CST Coil Overs and rear Piggybacks which felt like stock until the E-F rated tires gave it slightly rougher ride. Best upgrade I’ve ever done on this truck. Sent from above

KO2’s are a smoother riding on street tire but does have its shortfall in mud where duratracs prevail with more of a mt design. I’d save your money and look at getting new offset wheels in order to get larger tires before getting into a world of pain due to rubbing especially with larger AT or MT tires. Btw, if you’re considering KO2’s for better ride quality then I’d stay away from MT’s which are very loud, rougher riding than duratracs Sent from above

Assuming you’ve got 20” wheels, You’re asking for a world of trouble! First off, 16’s-18’s have different uca’s which causes 100% rubbing going up just one size and it’s even worse with AT tires. I did the 2.25” on my 18 and was forced to get new +1 offset wheels in order to get my 33” to stop rubbing. Leveling only raises your front a couple inches giving you a feel that you can go off-roading but you shouldn’t. Leveling with blocks caused my ride quality to suffer lots and later because I just couldn’t handle the ride quality any longer decided to just do a lift with coil overs which gave me a stock like feel “BUT” no matter what you do the larger E rated tire “WILL” ride much rougher than stock. If you’re wanting different tires (which don’t know why cause duratracs are pretty good off-road tires) then you will be looking at either keeping your same size or new wheels with different offset which then you’ll be able to fit 33”-34” tires but still riding much rougher than stock size tires. If it’s not rubbing now which it shouldn’t with stock size then it will 100% rub going just one size bigger because of the angle of the uca’s. I do not recommend for you to off-road with leveling kit, it’s a misleading mirage and it’s BS if anyone says it doesn’t rub cause it does with 20” wheels on a level with added ball joint and cv stress! Sent from above

Go with CST 4.5”-5” lift, excellent super quality lift kit with zero negatives. Keeps stock width and turning radius even allows keeping your stock wheels up to 35” tires. https://www.newlevelmotorsports.com/cskc3191.html Sent from above

You’re correct and thanks for posting. I’ve read other forums same thing happened but I always assumed it was due to incorrect installation. Sent from above

No, dealerships get their money only at tome of purchase and have absolutely nothing to do with refinancing any vehicle, that’s solely up to you. Sent from above

GM will scrap the manufacturing of it and sell them to China and the Middle East lol! Sent from above

Unless you typically use all of your truck bed, get yourself one of these and the rest will be history. https://www.4wd.com/p/n-fab-bed-mounted-rapid-strap-bm1tsrd-tx/_/R-BKES-BM1TSRD-TX Sent from above

IMHO, I’d rather get them with dsc and later tune them as desired rather than not having them to start. Sent from above

Sorry, preferred with DSC’s Sent from above

I know that but he was thinking to get his tuned with no dsc and just tuned. Mine were tuned at CST with no resi’s but I would’ve preferred with resi’s. A buddy of mine has the off the shelve 2.5’s, no extra tuning and loves them. Personally, I should’ve gone with the resi’s and if wasn’t happy with them always have them tuned to specific tuning. Sent from above