dtnel78

Here's a good video. Note the details they cover. Good pointers as well.

Did you have any luck yet? The guy I know @ Nordstroms gave me some information I forgot to share back with you. Wouldn't be to bad either as you could send the ECM and have it tuned as well. Send me a private message thru the system as well.

Get ahold of Nordstroms Automotive out of Garrettson SD. They can get you a harness which will start in the $250 range then you'll have to send it out and have it done up. The guy I spoke with this via text late last night did a 60's impala LS upgrade and sent the harness and ecm to a guy off eBay. The guy tuned the ECM and had everything setup for when he installed the harness, ECM on the vehicle. He said if you look on eBay you'll eventually come across the guy. The guy I spoke with only did this for his vehicle as he's to busy running the Nordstrom Automotive Recycling being that he's second on the ladder below the owner so he said he can't recall who did the harness for him but it was a eBay guy Hope this is able to help you. https://www.nordstromsauto.com/

Also post over on scannerdanner.com forums. Great forums and there's guys there doing this type of stuff day in and day out. Seems as if responses are slower during weekdays here on GM when everyone's working vs on scannerdanner when people stay up to task. You could have a variety of things going on. How current do you keep your would changes ja the first question I ask people as you'd be surprised some of the stuff I see and hear in training webinars from other shop owners, techs. Does this have the Displacement on Demand where it deactivates ****** amount of cylinders? OR was this the following year on these engines. I know there was a certain year and I get the 66and 8 cylinders mixed up.

Probably got it fixed by now as I didn't realize I had two tapatalk accounts until the other day so I need to somehow merge them or something. Normally the solder on the PRNDL isn't easily seen to the bare eye or with glasses. All the guys I've seen repair them me included had a microscope as they're one of those things that just is hard to spot. I had to watch some YouTube videos a few times to get it. Circuit board medics. Com out of Carolina's I believe will go thru the whole board for roughly $150ish~ and even let you choose backlight color, with new stepper motors and everything working with a lifetime warranty to back it up. Can't hardly go wrong if you can find a salvage yard one and if they can write the proper mileage or VIN# whichever it has to recognize. I'm just getting into that part of vehicle programming so learning all kinds of new things. I only get greasy working on my own stuff anymore as diagnosing them going shop to shop is a whole different ballpark. Still have to know all the vehicle systems from mfrs, etc but I let them do the internal engine work and just diagnose it. It's a new learning curve for sure as you're seeing alot more vehicles each day but never opening them up except maybe accessing a control module, etc for programming it. Subscriptions are expensive I'll say though. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

Probably not tempered for heat properly and was weak. Wonder how many of those they're replacing free of charge... If they still have it when you pick it up ask them if there was a TSB by chance on it. Good thing you have warranty.

Check your U-Joints first. Checked the Trans or Differential Oil lately? Have you ever changed the oil in the Differential? If you can't find a U-Joint bad (Common) I'd move to the Differential fluid first. Open plug on side and if oil don't seep out or if you stick your pinky in and it don't get any oil on it at the first bend in the pinky then I'd get a gasket, oil from local parts house and change the oil out. Pay attention to the oil as it's coming out and the bottom of the diff housing and the cover as well for any metal shavings, etc as this could indicate diff wear. Also I'd grab a few cans of Brake Parts Cleaner and a roll of shop paper towels, rags or whatever you use for wiping oil residue. I believe the oil types is 75W/140 but your local parts house can tell you for sure. Let us know what you find.

I'd be documenting this, keeping receipts, how long it's in the shop each time they're replacing it as this could give you teeth later whether it be possible lemon law, warranty extension, class action, etc. I'd call GM direct and ask if this is a known issue and if not then suspect something in your vehicle may be causing these issues. Have you had any aftermarket accessories installed at the dealer or any other shop? Could be a bad batch of radios but then GM and quite possibly the dealer would be seeing the issue. If all else fails Google something such as "infotainment radio failing in 2020 ____ _____ vehicle and see if others are complaining elsewhere, etc. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

Don't replace the caliper. You're just throwing the parts cannon and not properly diagnosing while wasting money on parts on underfed do. When you replaced the caliper did the caliper bleed without issue? Slow fluid as that would be a indicator of brake line internal failure in rubber hose. Check hose for swelling. Your PRNDL visibility issue is most likely a cracked solder on the circuit for it as they do this over time. Depending on if you have bulbs / needles not working you can get it back up in tip top shape with this company, https://circuitboardmedics.com/ Their reviews speak for themselves. Otherwise there's a guy on YouTube named Jeffecortex or something along those lines and he does videos and also repairs them himself. He'll redo the bulbs, stepper motors and needles for $155-$175 ish ~~ the PRNDL may or may not be included in that. The service 4wd could be the transfer case shift motor. Check for a C0327 with scan tool and see if the scan tool is bidirectional then you can check functions of the shift motor as it's a encoder motor that causes this in the shift motor housing. Also with a good scan tool you can check the ABS module for codes and also check the module function by checking the motor for proper operation. One good resource where you can get a subscription from 1 month to a year up to 5years and you won't spend more than $50 for the 5yr last I checked and it'll give you OEM troubleshooting flow charts, specs for voltage, resistance, wiring diagrams, repair information including torque information. I have this from mitchelldiy . Just search it under Google. Eaautorepair.net also has something similar. My feeling is you'll find you've thrown the parts cannon at this and spent alot of money not necessary to spend. Wanna learn troubleshooting the right way where you have a method and you can self teach yourself at your pace? Check out scannerdanner.com . Go thru the posts, become a member, read forum rules and ask questions as the guys there know their stuff. You can if you want to get a little more advanced purchase his book which on AESwave.com is $99 but well worth it. He'll also give you a free trial to his classroom videos as he teaches with his Vo-Tech students in the classroom while doing the videos so it's like you're there learning but also saving a ton of money. The book is a great REFERENCE to have when working on a car especially right beside the car. The two week free trial to his premium channel at scannerdanner.com can be attained by sending a email asking for a trial. I've seen some guys get more than 2 weeks as some have went thru rough times and are unemployed. That's between you and him and he'll do that via email with you. It's free to join the forums to post, reply and learn as you'll learn if you hang around long enough. He also releases some of his premium videos free on YouTube but he don't rely on YouTube as he did years ago before they changed how they pay content creators and sent alot of creators on a exodus as he did. I guess he bit the bullet, got a site up and running and set out on his own but he didn't post much on YouTube for quite awhile. The issues you're having minus the brake caliper which I never had on the front. Now with this sticky caliper is this in gear, in and out of gear while vehicles running? Vehicle in neutral does it roll with vehicle off, key in forward position but off? Try cracking that brake line from the ABS module or even bleeder screw and try another known good position and see if you get same result as in one pressurized vs one not pressurized, both pressurized, etc? Lookup the service information and check the ABS module. Maybe scour the internet for a Technical Service Bulletin that may addressed this in the past or not as that could give a diagnostic procedure or repair procedure, flow chart, etc. Definitely getting a scan tool and getting the codes scanned and checking the process for each is a must. I don't know what all the parameters are that set the brake light but I can tell you that the park brake pedal being pushed down causes the brake light in the cluster to come on. The main reason I say get the specs, wiring diagrams is kind of two fold. You pulled the fuse so that has to be part of the current issue and you'll have the stuff to reference for in the future. Hope this was able to help you get a grip on things and get a sense of direction as that's essentially what you need to know first. Good Luck! Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

It’s under warranty. I’d take it to the dealer as it’s their problem. I know our local dealers put you in a loaner if they have to keep it. That’s South Dakota vs California though so don’t know what they do out there?

I'D check out https://www.the12volt.com/ There's many variations of factory stereos. Don't cut the harness as there's adapters you can get to plug into the factory harness that'll have pigtail ends. Especially being a 2013 or even if it was a 07 as well with today's newer vehicles when you cut a wire you're essentially at times cutting into a wired/wireless network and as with internet networks in vehicles as well this causes problems. Get the proper adapter, wiring diagram and you'll have this knocked out in no time. They even have adapter plates for mounting but also keep in mind your vehicle will most likely need a security bypass module as well. BE sure to ask about these things on 12 volt website. I have a 04 Chevy Tahoe and I had to get a bypass module and I have a base model Tahoe, no steering wheel controls or anything of that nature. I don't know if yours does but if it does this is something to keep in mind as options on the vehicle can dictate what aftermarket parts / adapters you have to use. Also with a pigtail harness you can do the wiring on the bench and when installing it'll be plug n play for the most part. Make sure to seal the connections properly. Also crutchfield.com has a configurator which you can put your options in and it'll let you know what you need. IF you get speakers don't get 3 ways but rather check and if the vehicle has component with crossovers you'll want to go that route as well because who wants a stereo that doesn't sound good either. I learned the hard way and now have to buy component with crossovers because mine sounds well like sh** !!!! Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

What's the latest updates from you all on this issue? Been about 3 weeks with no responses. Be interesting to see if anything's being done from a bleacher perspective as I only have a 04 Tahoe with a 4.8 that started doing it when cold but I just think mine is the exhaust manifold gasket getting worse. 3yrs and going with a broken drivers side rearmost bolt. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

BAd part is these companies move these jobs based on unions and the vehicles don't cost any less at a dealership. Why not keep those jobs jb America? The same mfr GM could move to Southern U.S. and build same truck and have it come from the United States but no they go to Mexico and still avoid Tariffs that go back to the 60's which by the way those Tariffs have absolutely nothing to do with Trump though those who are ill informed would love you to think otherwise. Toyota and many other car mfrs have been setting up shop in the United States for years with non union workers and providing decent jobs with decent pay without the bureaucratic union B.S. I'm anti but also pro union at the same time. There's things that could be done better on both sides of the aisles from the Unions and the companies perspectives. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

To the original poster I'd really push for a new truck. Call all the way up the ladder, remind them it won't be the same truck, diminished value will be present, be sensible with them know you can escalate to the next level, take notes, take notes, take notes and keep working up the chain of command. This is ridiculous and anyone you speak with who works for the dealer or GM that says they'd accept the repair is lying and probably don't drives a Chevy. That's more true than people think. Push push push till they give. Wear them down. LEt them know you'll trade it for a Dodge and never buy another GM again and if they call your bluff and you can afford it I'd Do it to show them not to screw with you.

Any dealer in their right mind with a truck under warranty will give you a free loaner within the mfrs warranty. IF not you need a new dealer. IF there's this many trucks with these issue's as someone stated going years back then GM better make it right and fast as the right lawyers catch wind and there will be a class action lawsuit. GM claims times are good, cuts are being made to make their bottom line good as well moving from the car segment then they better step up. Whoever designed the EVAP Coil where the cab has to be stripped should be fired if they haven't already. That new refrigerant is no joke either. Don't ever get it fixed out of warranty as the new 1234 refrigerant is $$$$$ Expensive with the labor as well because everything that has to be done. This is probably a result of the R2R rules that went into effect for right to repair and now they need to make repair money. I don't do the AC but there's plenty of other repair work on all these vehicles that are newer these days and some consumers are realizing they've been getting bent over for years by dealer only work. I can flash just as well with my drew tech and my Bosch ADS625 which includes a j-2534 cord combo for programming ECM. Even had to buy a $550 battery charger/maintainer by Schumacher. 100amps peak for 3 min with 70 amp continuous while programming with steady ripple free voltage. I'll see if I can find any tsb 'sand slap it up tomorrow night (late sat).

They're tax deductible if you exceed the standard deduction which was raised this year. What really pissed me off and no I don't drive anymore was they eliminated per diem from Truck Drivers who drive over the road along with unreimbursed employee expenses for things a employer may require that they don't supply. They basically just pulled a numbers game on everyone. Also if you have enough money you'll hit that standard deduction especially someone who can write a check or take the rebates and still get the 0% financing. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Have you checked the output of the alternator as I didn't see that mentioned? Take it to a battery dealer that has a test tool that can test the diode in the alternator while cranking. Most non repair shops but parts stores that have the proper tools can do a test and give you a printout showing any issues with your starting / cranking system. If you have any further questions send me a private message but also check for any codes as even with soft codes they don't always trigger a check engine light. IS the low voltage, flickering when you have a/c fans on vs off same as with lights vs no lights and other situations?

IF you just bought it I'd let the salesman know as maybe pulled a switch without your sales guy knowing. If it's the case and he refuses to attempt to do anything also keep in mind they send out the GM satisfaction survey. You can vent there and that'll surely get you a call from your dealer as they need high ratings to stay good with GM.

Pay a lawyer $100-$150 for his time and make sure you're legal and pay it off. Legal fees are tax deductible. If you have a great credit score and they can't give you incentives and a good rate tell them to give you the rebates and that you'll find your own rate. Don't let them know about the finding your own rate until the deals done so they can't change things. My brother in law gets the 0% and full rebates all the time but he's got the money to pay cash if he chooses. I can say I wish I was in his shoes. Yukon Denali like $82k and he says "I'll take it" and they go prep it. Must be nice I think at times. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Check with your local Transmission shop via phone or in person. Explain what you're doing and maybe they have a tool you can use for a deposit of course but if it saves a tow bill. They may help you. When I had my Solus Edge 2 yrs ago it would do trans adaptations and such. Never messed with that stuff but I was able to see pressures in the transmission's solenoids and there was options there to do things but I didn't mess with any of that stuff. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

That's nice now people have something to print ajd take to the dealer with them. I'm only dealing with the knock sensors and typical lower door and wheel well rust in my 04 Tahoe so far. This all started after 100k miles so I'm still getting along good. No water leaks though. [emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

DID a quick Google search since I'm heading out door and only searched 08 GMC no models but this was the first return I got. Let me know if it works for you or not. https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/removing-fuel-rail-452322/ Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk