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About dtnel78

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  1. When you cleaned the throttle body you didn't manually force the flap open did you? There's a way you can get it to open and clean it that way being that the vehicles are drive by wire anymore with no throttle cable. Any other codes? Did you clear the engine codes, key back off then key back on before starting? Also does it do this after fully warmed up or was it just initially? How did it use to start prior to the code? Had you had the code for a long time? IF none of that helps head over to scanner Danner.com and create an account and post in the forums there. Make sure to include all information required when posting. Great techs over there, top notch!! Also copy and paste or link this thread so they know what you've did and don't have to type it all over again. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  2. Does your truck have the upper intake Plenum as they have on the 04 Tahoe? I have the 04 with the 4.8 and have knock sensor codes and have to remove the upper intake Plenum to replace the knock sensors. Did you torque the sensors, torque the intake Plenum gasket if that's what you have or if you have regular intake did you torque that properly and torque the throttle body as well as other things that needed properly torqued. I can't remember if 06 or 07 they switched body styles again? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference with the engine's though. Just what your describing almost sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you get all hoses back on? IF so maybe take some brake parts cleaner, very little and spray lightly around the gasket areas. IF you have a leak the rpm's will increase wherever the leak is. You can always spray water as well it'll just clean the top of the pistons when it steams them. Did you verify the knock sensors were bad before replacing them and then once replaced make sure they're working properly? A labscope makes this easy if you have one. Were you getting codes showing the knock sensors were bad initially? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. Thank you for many years of support

    Where did he wind up going after he left A1 Auto? Parts house elsewhere, etc
  4. Has the shop bothered putting it on a scope? A scope can catch intermittent issues better than not but only when they show themselves. Fuel pressure? What's fuel trims at? Have you checked the fuel pump pressure resting with key forward, running and driving? If they hook it up to a scan tool and watch certain live data while driving if it acts up then maybe they'll see something. Check the plug connectors for the coil packs, check them for corrosion, tightness, etc. The P0300 is random multiple misfire if I recollect properly. IS there any other codes such as a cylinder misfire that could be giving a 2nd , 3rd code that you forgot to mention? Main thing is compare scan tool data when it's running fine vs running bad. When it had the code it should've stored live data about the conditions at the time it set that could've been retrieved. IF the code is still in there then the data could be accessible. Did they relearn the crankshaft position sensor? I can't recall if it needs done on that year model but I do know it needs done with some stuff when you replace it. Definitely post back what you eventually find that solves the problem as it could help the next person plus it would be good to see what the end result yet. I wouldn't call a ecm yet on it. Head over to Scanner Danner .com , register and post the question in their forums. Very knowledgeable people there and it may get answered fairly quickly. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. 4L60E issue

    PWM delete? You can have it scanned at a autozone for free and see if you have any codes to see if that can give you a direction before you take it to a transmission shop and plunk down a bunch of money for something that could be simple? Have you checked the wiring harness, check for any corrosion at the connection points, check for any corrosion hooking up to the transmission ECM? It could be something simple such as one of those or you just clean it up real good and put some good proper lubricating grease on it design for electrical contacts. On a side note whenever I get a vehicle that's used that I plan on keeping for personal or family use I generally run it down to the transmission shop, have them drop the pan, service it complete, take it for a test drive and let me know of anything else that they see or feel is wrong before I put it on the road. I don't want to be stranded and I don't want any members of my family stranded. Most often when I do this I find that liver had the vehicle before me didn't take care of the transmission as it should have been. These Transmissions these days are finicky even down to the type of transmission fluid you need to use and that varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I do know mine always get synthetic in them because that's what the transmission shop uses. Definitely drop us a line and let us know what you figure out what the transmission shop unless you figure it out before then. It's good to hear back that way we have reference material to fall back on at times. Have a good day! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. Was em all the time. Just have to be careful of what you do. I do it about twice a year and my 04 Tahoe and 06 Impala look like new under the hood. No Electrical issues! Knock on wood!! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  7. DID a quick Google search since I'm heading out door and only searched 08 GMC no models but this was the first return I got. Let me know if it works for you or not. https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/removing-fuel-rail-452322/ Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  8. Only thing I can think of right now is check one of the online tire stores and put your vehicle data in and it should be able to tell you what you need. You can experiment a little with sizes and see what you can go with size wise. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  9. Looking for the part number for the bolts for the intake plenum and washers as I'll have to remove the plenum to do the knock sensors. Was doing some reading and noticed in a discussion on a different site that it's supposed to be important that you replace the intake plenum bolts and crush washers. IF anyone has any information on this and can tell me where I can find these parts that would be great. I'd like to avoid the dealership if possible as we all know they're going to cost more. I have a the Mahle intake gaskets already that the parts store had. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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