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dtnel78

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About dtnel78

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  1. I have the pro maxx kit which I'll use when I do it this summer. Have to get new air compressor wired up so I can use the small 1/4 drive Ratchet with a drill adapter on it. I'll use the kit to make side money as well for other vehicles as once you get it lined up on the vehicle and step drill the heads then you only need to remove the last remaining bits of threads and chase it with a thread chaser before installing a new gasket kit. Not sure if I should use the Mini Ductor for the remaining ones as they use Loctite for OEM assembly of the engine and I don't want to melt the aluminum heads. I'll need to check some temps on stuff before I make that decision though. IF I can loosen the Loctite by heating the bolts then that would save time and possibly broken exhaust manifold bolts. I'll make a decision real soon as I have to do the knock sensors and need to pull the upper intake Plenum which would be the ideal time since if I have to pull a head by some odd reason this would save me time and money on gasket kits. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  2. I didn't look at the other link but don't throw parts at it or do what they call the parts cannon, throwing Parts at it. I would check and make sure it doesn't have worn bushings or any other stuff. I'm sure there's some electrical checks you can do on the motor as well. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for less than a year for two years or for four years or even five years they have different subscription options at Mitchell diy.com and there is one other website that I use as well. I want to say it's called E A Auto repair.com but I think that is the Mitchell website. Anyways there's two websites that I get the five year subscription to which gives me plenty of Diagnostic and troubleshooting guides, techniques, Etc and it's practically like it was taken from a dealership repair reference material. If you consider the two websites and three to five years each that $45 that's not too bad getting all that repair information, wiring diagrams, and plenty of other stuff for a hundred bucks at your disposal for all those years. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. Just a Fyi if you want to check for low voltage on the wires he was referring to you can use either a LED test light or a different type that I can't think of the name right now. DON'T APPLY POWER TO IT. Vehicles these days are what they call ground side switched meaning the ground actually controls things. Want to learn a lot about this stuff and much much more then check out Scannerdanner.com You can register and post on their forums as well and as long as you post following the recommended posting guidelines you will normally get help. There are plenty of very experienced text some even owning their own businesses and it is a great community. Paul Danner or AKA scannerdanner has a online class you can take just as he teaches it to his technical school students did he has recorded and it's around 11 or $12 a month that you can set up on a subscription through PayPal. You can get a free two-week trial as well. If you don't want to do that you can go to AESwave.com and buy his book there for $99 which is a hell of a deal considering everything he teaches you in the book then it's great reference material for when you're out there in the field, driveway, front yard working on your vehicle. Online is a heck of a course to do as well. I rewatch videos all the time. I use the book almost daily but it seems I don't use it as often as I used to now that I've been learning more and more over the last few years. I also do mobile diagnostics as well. Yes it's a hobby but I get paid at times. He even has some free videos that you post a YouTube from time to time but after they had a bad thing with YouTube and they're monetizing he created his own website and moved all of his videos over there. A lot of his followers went with him. He generally teaches a few months at a time and then he does videos rotating with another teacher at the technical school in Pennsylvania. His son has been helping him do videos lately. I think he's earning a little extra money but I'm pretty sure dad takes care of him but he has to work for it. Oh by the way the other type of test light I was talking about is a LOGIC PROBE. If you go putting voltage to your vehicle for any of the control modules or the ECM you will ruin them if you don't know what you're doing. One thing I use and a add-on they have as an extra Safeguard is the Power Probe 4 and it has what they call a 5 volt reference adapter (purchased separately) as these vehicles these days run on a 5 volt reference system meaning the commands that come from the ECM, body control module another control modules are normally 5 volts Max. There was a lot of very good Diagnostic and test procedures that you will learn just by watching his videos. I was skeptical on signing up for the online subscription but once I did it I was sold and you also get to see videos that others have to wait and see because you are what they call a premium content subscriber. In reference to the Power Probe mentioned above Power Probe version number 3 and above are able to utilize the 5 volt reference adapter meaning that if you use it for testing wires and are worried that you will put too much voltage out the 5 volt reference adapter purchased separately for less than $15 on Amazon can limit your output voltage to 5 volts. If you want to do work on your vehicles, if you want to get into electrical troubleshooting on your vehicle, if you want to eventually do your own work on your vehicle then this I highly recommend. You will save so much money especially in diagnostic fees by doing your own work. I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe with 123400 miles and I haven't had any work done at the dealer since it had 60 thousand miles on it other than lifetime oil changes that I have which the $1,500 I paid for it back in January of 2005 has earned it's payback and then some. The oil change plan I bought was a every 3 months or 3000 miles. They tried to get me to come in every 5000 by putting the sticker at 5000 miles but I still come in at 3000 miles or three months whichever comes first because that's what I paid for in the same goes for my wife's car. If I ever change the engine they only check the VIN number in the dash so I'm still good then. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. loud cunk/bang

    What's your transfer case switch set to? Maybe go thru the cycles in case something didn't switch completely over. Otherwise check the transmission fluid, rear axle differential fluid, transfer case fluid especially if you have 4wd as they had the "pump rub" issue years ago. Check and make sure the rear of the transfer case isn't leaking onto the ground as that's a early indicator. Clunking sounds like it could be CV Axles from front differential to front wheels. Check for tears in CV Axle Outer and Inner boots. Also check front differential fluid levels. Have you ever had the fluid changed in the front, rear or transfer case and transmission? It's something that can be done with a couple hours, proper tools, proper fluids and a Haynes Manual available at most if not all auto parts stores. Also check the U-Joints as I had issues with my 04 @ 100k mileage range. Block the front wheels and Jack the rear axle and check the axles closely at the u joints. If you have to replace the U-Joints make sure you get the driveshaft balanced afterwards as you're guaranteed to be off. IF a dealer does it tell them beforehand you want the driveshaft balanced after replacement and if they say it's not necessary then leave and find a driveline service shop that does this stuff and does their balancing in house themselves. When GM assembles those U joints and the axles they use a hi temp plastic to hold the U-joint cups and if you look how offset they are you can see that once replaced they will definitely need to be balanced. It's amazing when you're replace bad U-joints and have the driveshaft balanced how much smoother the vehicle will drive going down the road. Eliminated a lot of vibrations for me in the past. Now with the winter roads we've had lately I have two more than likely go through my front end and will have to get an alignment when I put my new tires on as well. I know there's some parts down there that are bad because of the way the vehicle front tires are wearing. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. Fuel fill problem

    Are you in a cold climate? Wondering if the vent line from the tank to the fill port is plugged for some reason. There'd be no way for the gas to vent thru the charcoal canister if the vehicle isn't running as you're suppose to turn engines off when fueling so the venting system would cause a lot of problems for people and there'd be a lot of cases of this. There's a separate line beside the fuel tank fill line. Check and make sure it's not obstructed. A shot of air from a air chuck could give it a quick blast. The fill and fill vent aren't to complicated at all. The vent purge solenoid is electrically activated by the vehicles vent?purge system which has the ECM controlling it as well which wouldn't be happening when off as others have suggested by saying the fuel has to go thru the charcoal canister first. If it's under warranty let the dealer play with it Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. 04 Suburban No Crank

    Come on starters aren't that bad unless.... you have oil leaks everywhere. I'm sure by now you've realized it wasn't that bad though. Did this solve your issue is more of what I've been wondering. Had a similar issue with a 2000 Ford 4 cylinder 2.5 and it turned out to be the #3 piston cracked. Had stopped truck from running so even with power at the proper terminals I used the proper socket up front and manually made sure the motor would turn but you didn't mention a grinding noise before all this happened as the owner of the pickup said the engine made a clunk or grind noise as he couldn't recall. I myself thought it was his psychosis because of all the weed he smokes daily. Wasn't to bright just out driving around in -20 weather with -45 wind chills that night and thought I'd come get him by calling me which I didn't as it was 25 min from home at a minimum not counting warming the vehicle up and I don't have a tow truckm Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  7. I change the oil every 3 months or 3kmiles at the dealers expense. I was a sucker when I bought it Jan 15, 2005 brand new but oil has went up and they still and always will change my oil for free per the contract. Engine goes out I'll put another in and let them change that oil free as they look at the VIN# in the dash so I'll drive it till I can't keep the cab from freezing me out. Cheaper than buying a new or newer car either way. [emoji16] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. Water leak passenger side

    They didn't hook the A/C drain tube up from what you're describing. Curious about the back story on the roll cage? Sounds like a interesting topic. Is this a daily driver or something soon set for bashing? Let us know what you find on the ac tube that wasn't replaced. Did they have the interior out by chance? IF unknown I'd make sure to know if they had it out before leading into that with them as you never know which way it could go depending on what kind of people they are. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. 2019 AT4, tomorrow

    All those union retirement's they gotta pay or at least the ones they didn't get out of with the GM bankruptcy. They need Guinea pigs to take those first year depreciation hit. That's the bad part, you buy a new car and drive it off the lot and you lose 15-20% value right away. Last car I bought was in 2007 which was a used 06 impala 39k miles and currently has just under 126k miles on it. Drive em till the wheel fall off. Maintain em as well. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. Rear window leak

    That's nice now people have something to print ajd take to the dealer with them. I'm only dealing with the knock sensors and typical lower door and wheel well rust in my 04 Tahoe so far. This all started after 100k miles so I'm still getting along good. No water leaks though. [emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. Welcome to world of ADAS..... all this new advanced camera and forward facing stuff that needs recalibrated if you replace side, forward or other cameras on vehicles as they are set to detect objects. Autel author their scan tools have a lot of stuff for that stuff but not sure on the GM stuff. You could always hop over to Autel and see if they have equipment that they make claims can get it done or not. Sounds like GM pushed another product out the door they can't service yet..... typical cart before the horse crap...... I guess that's what happens when you get in such a hurry to rush the technology out the door. Almost seems as if these truck mfrs are having a arms race anymore. IF they won't release it it's because they realize the liability involved from having a faulty system that won't work. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  12. Check the PCV valve, fuel venting system? Is it holding a vacuum? That's a few things to check. What was the head TSB? I have a 04 with the 4.8 so it may not apply but worth checking as you never know. 125,800k miles on it and runs good as the day I bought it except it needs a exhaust manifold bolt repaired on left rear of engine which I'll do once it gets warm. Also have the knock sensor TSB to do on it and replace both knock sensors as I have a code already. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  13. A transmission shop will have a guy that is able to hook directly up and check the pressure readings and know what he needs to troubleshoot as well. Some dealerships especially small ones can't afford to staff a full time transmission guy and keep him certified so they use smaller shops that specialize in this type of stuff because it saves them overhead and the dealer will generally just swap a transmission depending on what the transmission shop tells them. Get a transmission shop as they do transmissions. Just make sure you know they work on your type of transmission before you Taurus it there and you can find that out by just simply calling. Also talk to family, friends and they'll be able to possibly refer a shop they know of. A vehicle that age I wouldn't take to the dealer anyways. Better to use a specialty shop. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. A transmission shop will have a guy that is able to hook directly up and check the pressure readings and know what he needs to troubleshoot as well. Some dealerships especially small ones can't afford to staff a full time transmission guy and keep him certified so they use smaller shops that specialize in this type of stuff because it saves them overhead and the dealer will generally just swap a transmission depending on what the transmission shop tells them. Get a transmission shop as they do transmissions. Just make sure you know they work on your type of transmission before you Taurus it there and you can find that out by just simply calling. Also talk to family, friends and they'll be able to possibly refer a shop they know of. A vehicle that age I wouldn't take to the dealer anyways. Better to use a specialty shop. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  15. I'd find a transmission shop that's experienced with these as they have the ability to hook a scan tool up to it and pull codes if it is computer controlled. May be something as simple as a solenoid. Better to get it looked at earlier than when it's to late and possibly avert disaster. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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