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dtnel78

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About dtnel78

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  1. Tapatalk Pro . I don't have any ads whatsoever no matter the site I go to. Just a one time fee. I also pay the monthly fee using my son's college email addy for YouTube. No commercials there as well. For the $5 a month with YouTube Premium it's worth it as I also get YouTube music with it and download all my music there rather than also paying for iTunes as well. Though now I think of it a little more I get the iTunes music free with my Verizon plan which I just recalled but when I started with Verizon years ago I used my newer email address and with iTunes I have a older email address which since Verizon never put the older one in I don't get access to all my owned music 180+ gb on my Android phone thru iTunes. There's other ways around that but as you get older I've found I listen to music less that when the early Napster days were around hence the reason for such a large music collection. When they, the RIAA / Napster dropped the hammer and said stop I took what I had and walked out the door quietly. Business models, software, interfaces, tracking all changed to quickly to keep up with as I was trucking so I just started buying iTunes after all of that. Those who kept trying to circumvent the system with free music got their butts handed to them by the RIAA. Sorry about the getting off topic. Got a little sidetracked.[emoji16] Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  2. I don't have any issues (knock on wood) with the tapatalk pro app I use for all my forums on the internet. I'd definitely make the mods aware of this so maybe they can do something about this. They probably need to install a CAPTCHA so it knows a real person is posting and also put a notice in the top of their web page explaining that if there's not a captcha that they need to not click certain things. Those who are running this site should be making it safe. Don't spend a ton of time on here but it would make me spend less time. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  3. Curious as if this is a 1500 or 2500? Buying a 2500 would make it more likely that a vehicle was used for towing or as a work vehicle when compared to a 1500. One thing that'll tell you for sure if it's a wheel bearing or not is when you go around a curve if the noise gets worse. I replaced both of the axles on the front with Timken within 8-10yrs if I had to guess. Did the 2nd one 120 miles from home with 2 - 1/2 cows in the back on a hot summer day in a bank parking lot next door to the parts facility. Luckily it's the same regional parts company I use here at home so I still get the lifetime warranty. Maybe try disconnecting both axle shafts and rotate the diff manually by hand and see if you get the noise still. Sometimes you'll get noises from one side to the other. Check the U-joint shafts from the transfer case to the front diff as i've seen u-joints cause clicking, vibrating, etc. You said you bought this used? How long ago? A good rule of thumb is if you get a used vehicle and you don't know the history or can't get service info (very easily obtainable thru any dealer as long as they've worked on it), (also warranty information repairs are easily obtained). I always on used vehicles have a transmission shop I use go thru and service the transmission, transfer case & diff's unless I have time then I'll do the diff's. The main reason for doing these is someone else's problem may have been sold to you so also when shopping for vehicles look for new fluid and even if you want a good peace of mind take it to a reputable shop and pay them the $70-$120 for a good vehicle inspection as the stuff they find will give you bargaining power when you go back to the dealer. A good shop can hook the computer up and run it down the road, check sensors, inactive (soft codes), transmission data as long as the tech knows what they're doing. I inspected a Subaru recently and saved the guy over $1k. Though 2 months later he's having a misfire (spark plug oil tube seals leaking that'll cause that). It wasn't evident when we'd inspected it as shops will clean rather than fix things right when prepping a vehicle for sale. Some dealers and shops when they find signs of issues will drain and full the fluid then ala the metal shavings we're gone. My suggestion is get a oil drain pan and pull the drain plug in the front diff. If it comes out dark let it drain completely and watch for any metal particles. If you've got shavings and need to put a diff rebuild kit in it just make sure any specialized tools you'll need you have or can maybe rent at auto zone or a place that has a tool loaner program. Sometimes a transmission shop may have rebuilt ones on the shelf and you can swap out if yours is bad and you just give them you're core (this way will cost a little more as someone, local or elsewhere rebuilds them. Definitely check the u-joint cups first as they rust and you can't see it till they're apart. Just had a u-joint go out I replaced 5yrs ago and it was vibrating for about 6-8 months in certain speed ranges. Didn't bother at first then it was winter so waited it out and kept a jack, jackstand, u-joint, tools on hand in case it went out away from home. I got lucky. I also had to do intake gaskets and an O2 sensor during this time. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  4. I'd be documenting this, keeping receipts, how long it's in the shop each time they're replacing it as this could give you teeth later whether it be possible lemon law, warranty extension, class action, etc. I'd call GM direct and ask if this is a known issue and if not then suspect something in your vehicle may be causing these issues. Have you had any aftermarket accessories installed at the dealer or any other shop? Could be a bad batch of radios but then GM and quite possibly the dealer would be seeing the issue. If all else fails Google something such as "infotainment radio failing in 2020 ____ _____ vehicle and see if others are complaining elsewhere, etc. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  5. Lazy dealer if they can't find it or aren't aware of it unless you're just wanting to have it ready ahead of time. That's what they get paid from GM for though not.much but if they were your dealer who sold it to you then they made money and should have to earn it. IF you ever take something to a dealer and they say they can't find anything then try a 2nd dealer and if they say the same then go above them to GM as they have people on hand that figure this stuff out and also people to deal with customers to resolve issues as they want to know especially if there's a fix and the dealer is brushing it off then they have leverage on them and you as well. 600 miles and doing that already... Can't wait till the warranty runs out what'll happen. They just don't make em like they use to but they sure act like the price reflects that they do but that's all CEO and union pay factored in to the truck. I'd almost be willing to be they make them for less than $15-20k tops by the time they roll off the floor. That would include R&D on the high price end. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  6. It's more than likely at the joints in the lines. You could get a dye kit and put dye in the transmission fluid, run it a day, two or whatevers needed then use the glasses and light and go look for the bright leaky spot that'll show where it's coming thru at. Are the cooler lines a rubber / metal combo as mine on my 04 leak by the radiator and drip down and it blows back. I've had the lines probably 5-6 yrs and still haven't installed them yet but I'll be doing that this early summer. Have to lean the rear of transmission down some to get fitting loose on top of transmission on my vehicle. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  7. When was the last time you checked the front diff oil level? Anyways you may want to pop the drain plug just long enough to let some oil out and see if there's any shavings, loose pieces, etc. IF so it may be a good time to drop a lighted mini cam about $35 on Amazon down in there and take a peek at the gears. When going in and out of low the few times I have to verified it's worked I have the vehicle in neutral but I have the auto transmission. Might want to check the oil and if not good then open it up as I would. Of course that would be me with my own labor and factory level repair information as it can be had online for a year for less than $30 at Mitchelldiy.com or eaautorepair.net which both have wiring diagrams, factory repair information, torque values which are handy when reassembling stuff during a repair as things still need to be torqued. You can also get a multiyear subscription to a vehicle if you plan on keeping it any amount of time. I've had mine since it was new in 2005. It's a 04 Tahoe with a 4.8L engine. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  8. You didn't reverse flush it by chance did you? Was the transmission replaced prior to this stuff happening? Checked solenoids? May need to have a transmission shop deal with it as that's what I do unless it's a transfer case issue as those are easy still yet. To many specialized tools seem to be needed anymore these days for working on transmissions. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  9. Don't replace the caliper. You're just throwing the parts cannon and not properly diagnosing while wasting money on parts on underfed do. When you replaced the caliper did the caliper bleed without issue? Slow fluid as that would be a indicator of brake line internal failure in rubber hose. Check hose for swelling. Your PRNDL visibility issue is most likely a cracked solder on the circuit for it as they do this over time. Depending on if you have bulbs / needles not working you can get it back up in tip top shape with this company, https://circuitboardmedics.com/ Their reviews speak for themselves. Otherwise there's a guy on YouTube named Jeffecortex or something along those lines and he does videos and also repairs them himself. He'll redo the bulbs, stepper motors and needles for $155-$175 ish ~~ the PRNDL may or may not be included in that. The service 4wd could be the transfer case shift motor. Check for a C0327 with scan tool and see if the scan tool is bidirectional then you can check functions of the shift motor as it's a encoder motor that causes this in the shift motor housing. Also with a good scan tool you can check the ABS module for codes and also check the module function by checking the motor for proper operation. One good resource where you can get a subscription from 1 month to a year up to 5years and you won't spend more than $50 for the 5yr last I checked and it'll give you OEM troubleshooting flow charts, specs for voltage, resistance, wiring diagrams, repair information including torque information. I have this from mitchelldiy . Just search it under Google. Eaautorepair.net also has something similar. My feeling is you'll find you've thrown the parts cannon at this and spent alot of money not necessary to spend. Wanna learn troubleshooting the right way where you have a method and you can self teach yourself at your pace? Check out scannerdanner.com . Go thru the posts, become a member, read forum rules and ask questions as the guys there know their stuff. You can if you want to get a little more advanced purchase his book which on AESwave.com is $99 but well worth it. He'll also give you a free trial to his classroom videos as he teaches with his Vo-Tech students in the classroom while doing the videos so it's like you're there learning but also saving a ton of money. The book is a great REFERENCE to have when working on a car especially right beside the car. The two week free trial to his premium channel at scannerdanner.com can be attained by sending a email asking for a trial. I've seen some guys get more than 2 weeks as some have went thru rough times and are unemployed. That's between you and him and he'll do that via email with you. It's free to join the forums to post, reply and learn as you'll learn if you hang around long enough. He also releases some of his premium videos free on YouTube but he don't rely on YouTube as he did years ago before they changed how they pay content creators and sent alot of creators on a exodus as he did. I guess he bit the bullet, got a site up and running and set out on his own but he didn't post much on YouTube for quite awhile. The issues you're having minus the brake caliper which I never had on the front. Now with this sticky caliper is this in gear, in and out of gear while vehicles running? Vehicle in neutral does it roll with vehicle off, key in forward position but off? Try cracking that brake line from the ABS module or even bleeder screw and try another known good position and see if you get same result as in one pressurized vs one not pressurized, both pressurized, etc? Lookup the service information and check the ABS module. Maybe scour the internet for a Technical Service Bulletin that may addressed this in the past or not as that could give a diagnostic procedure or repair procedure, flow chart, etc. Definitely getting a scan tool and getting the codes scanned and checking the process for each is a must. I don't know what all the parameters are that set the brake light but I can tell you that the park brake pedal being pushed down causes the brake light in the cluster to come on. The main reason I say get the specs, wiring diagrams is kind of two fold. You pulled the fuse so that has to be part of the current issue and you'll have the stuff to reference for in the future. Hope this was able to help you get a grip on things and get a sense of direction as that's essentially what you need to know first. Good Luck! Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  10. Have you checked the computer for any codes? Did the transmission have a vin programming done to it? I saw something a long time ago where someone asked about issues they were having and the responder mentioned having it programmed to the VIN# but depending on year models it would vary. A solenoid could be stuck, bad, etc. Go check and double check your installation instructions which I'd hope you had some guidance for some of the stuff? You can get MitchellDIY for anywhere from 1-5 yrs for complete repair troubleshooting information, specs, flow charts, etc and you spend less than $40-$50 tops and have it for years to come. I've had it a long time and it's definitely saved me thousands though I've probably bought thousands in tools over the years, LOL..... Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  11. It’s under warranty. I’d take it to the dealer as it’s their problem. I know our local dealers put you in a loaner if they have to keep it. That’s South Dakota vs California though so don’t know what they do out there?
  12. Look at the tag in the door for the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) sticker as that’ll let you know the max weight rating. 1/2 ton is 1,000 lbs so I’ve always went ny the rule of max I can haul without a trailer is 1,000;lbs.
  13. Since it's new take it to the dealer as it's surely under warranty unless you did a wreck rebuild or something? Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  14. It was strange seeing that as it only showed 2016-2019 model year vehicles so I went back in and saw that above the price & part listing on the page you linked it also has clickable wording that says "see if it fits your vehicle" so I selected 2006 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3 Gas and standard package and got a return showing it fits. I will say that those are some spendy plugs for plastic but that's anything GM / Chevy anymore. BAd part is like with AC Delco Parts I can get the same ones the dealer will install and pay less than what they'd charge me / us online or at dealership. Our local parts house which regionally in 3-4 states they have 49 stores and warehousing. They actually have to have minimum quantities on hand at most times to be able to supply the dealerships as the dealerships get their parts such as those locally from them. They're a OE level supplier which from the way it sounded they have to meet a certain criteria to be able to supply the dealerships. Back in the early 80's you could get a brand new pickup practically with all options around $10-$11k and now putting a crankshaft in a 06 GMC with the Diesel cost Appx $16k as my neighbor had it done after the crank broke due to bad porosity. He'd bought it a few years old used but still drives it for his business doing underground storm sewer installation. They use their pickups for plowing snow in the winter when construction is slow. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  15. I did a quick search for 2006 Silverado and this was one of the results that got returned and there were others below as well. You can measure the hole opening and see if this or any of the others may fit? https://www.jbtools.com/auto-body-dr-6929-flush-type-black-plastic-hole-plug/?gclid=CjwKCAjwguzzBRBiEiwAgU0FT1PbLZ3H6Onao5gsV74utXz22p-goa0tgLnNZpLoYZTjWgfF9cZBYRoC0UcQAvD_BwE Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
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