Was it a certified vehicle? Sometimes when you buy them from dealers they say they're "Certified". If so and it's a Chevy dealer if it turns out there's a tune on it or they say then ask them if they sold it to you if they checked for it as part of their "certification" process. I wouldn't mention a tune to them as they should be able to diag that by looking at software revisions. Sometimes looking for tsbs on issues like this can help as well. Also the last post asked a good question, is the dipstick high or low? Also I'm sure you changed the oil initially after the injector issue? If it was a fair amount I'd probably change it a time or two to get the fuel out of the system.
Changed the oil since you did this work? Unknown history on the vehicle prior to you getting it you may want to make sure that's done as well. I know this isn't related to limp mode just recommending. What's the codes on the engine? Check all your connections, grounds, etc as it could be something simple.
Power the ecm and like on my 04 tahoe you can push 2 buttons and it'll put the transfer case into neutral allowing it to be towed. I think I found that info in the owners manual which I'm sure would be under towing or maybe another topic. IF you can get to the accessory position you can normally shift the vehicle into neutral and the transfer case also. Hope that helps. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Test each part properly and go from there. Doing the parts cannon will just waste money on needless parts. You have to pull the codes as those numbers actually mean things and when you have multiple codes sometimes there's patterns. Can you pull the codes? IF you want a faster response go to scannerdanner.com and create a free account and post in the repair help section following the posting rules and be detailed as possible and respectful as well and those forum members will help you resolve it. They know their stuff. To me it sounds like the throttle body was a band aid and something else is wrong. Just remember scannerdanner.com . Very smart techs in these forums ajd they're helpful and you'll learn more than you imagine. Seems as if responses are slow here at times. These guys over there breathe this stuff daily and still can't enough as they love what they Do so it's not a job. A lot love the challenge if you ask me as that's my thing, where's the next challenge! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
What's fuel trims? IF you have a bad O2 sensor it could be dumping fuel in the system but this sounds worse as if it's leaking fuel. 130k is to low for leaky rings, etc. Have you did a clear flood crank? With the pedal pushed all the way to the floor and crank it and see if it has a steady crank sound. IF you can create a video and upload the video to a free dropbox account and post a shared link here in the forums. We can listen to it then if you have someone to record while you perform the clear flood mode procedure. IF it fires in clear flood mode then fuel is still getting thru. Do you have a fuel pressure reading at idle and while driving? Running rough? Running it with fuel in the oil pan will cause premature engine wear due to the gas bring diluted and the stuff they use in it even though gas is made from .... Oil... Let us know what you find. The stethoscope method mentioned by the previous poster is a good first choice to try and inexpensive. I use that method a lot when checking for misses, etc... Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
So you have a fuel pressure of 62. IS that at idle or running down the road? Same throttle body? Has the throttle body been cleaned properly as if there's any carbon that can cause issues. Checked the sensor by the airbox, maf to make sure it's good or was that replaced as well. When you crank the engine over, pedal to the floor, clear flood mode does it have a steady crank sound or does it have a off sound? Was this a long or short block? Just guessing stuff off top of my head for a direction.
Also most of the tow trucks have jumper cables or they can hookup the cables to the vehicle to give it enough power to put it into neutral if needed but generally you don't need to be in neutral to be towed because the majority of cars are front wheel drive. Know if it's an all wheel drive vehicle then they have to use a tow dolly on the rear wheels and hook it from the front or reverse of that. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
They snatch it from the back and take the rear wheels off the ground and lock the steering wheel straight ahead and head down the road. If they can only grab from the front they can always remove the driveline assembly. Another way is they have Dolly's they can put the rear wheels on, pull it forward, set it dow and grab from the rear then. Some of the newest tow trucks especially those that do city towing are able to pull up just beside and a little forward of the vehicle and use their boom and still snake a car out even old it's parallel parked with cars in front and behind. The repo industry has shifted to this as deadbeats who don't pay their car note will try anything to keep a tow truck from getting it. BAd news though as I saw one in Europe on YouTube that can pull up beside you and has a boom that comes off the truck on the side and they can pull up beside you, use their specialty machine that reaches under and grabs each wheel, locks it in and lifts the vehicle up and slides it sideways onto the flatbed deck of the tow truck. Also in the U.S. that's another thing. They have rollback flatbed tow trucks which can winch you up onto the truck and drive away. There's many ways to hook up to a vehicle without damaging it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Does it crank over? Go to scannerdanner.com , become a member, follow the posting instructions, post under repair questions and help. Those guys over there will get you on the right track for sure. Top notch crew on their forums. Seems depending on the topic over here will dictate how much of a response you'll get. I will post this thread over there as well and see if any of the guys will venture over here to lend a hand.
Did you take it to the dealer body shop and see what they say? Most small stuff in some dealer shops gets subbed out to a PDR company anyways as they get a killer discount and can still not touch it and make $30-$50 profit for just getting it done as a "dealer" repair though most people won't know they subbed it out. Trucks dealers do to make money.
Don't get me wrong but I thought in place of the 4x4 gearbox I thought you put the longer tailshaft from your old transmission on the new one and remove the transfer case assembly and bracket if I recollect properly. I'm a hands on person so explaining stuff isn't my forte. Hope that helps some. I Do have the 4L60 Book and Tech guide as well they use for rebuilding them. I could scan and email some pages later if needed if you need something specific. I'm not posting online out of respect for the content creators. Sharing a few pages or specs don't hurt anything but when people make copies of books and send them then that crosses the line. Just as I have shopkey pro but that's expensive and ip address monitored so I don't share login info as that would violate my contract and I'd still have to pay per the contract terms of service. Snap On gets protective of that and rightfully so. Mitchell DIY has a single or multi year subscription you can get for about $45 for 5yrs. I have that but only because a few years ago I didn't know I'd have a business license and be subscribing to shopkey which is well worth the money if you fix stuff but they will want to see a business license if you do that. Business licenses are easy to get as it's just a tax license number from your state and if you feel you make at least $150 per month in revenue then it's worth it as you'll speed up on jobs and make more money. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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