Jump to content

dtnel78

Member
  • Content Count

    138
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

29 Good

About dtnel78

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. IS this the stock ECM? Wonder if it's been replaced and maybe not setup properly. I'd check over at scannerdanner.com and ask someone like Tyler or one of the other longtime members. They'd be able to give you some good direction on this. I am a member and use the site frequently. Another option if you're a tech, owner, etc in the industry is a website called diag.net which helps techs help techs and you get good shop responses. Have you checked to see that the network is alive? Do you have power, ground, etc on the pins at the OBDII port? You can search YouTube for "checking the CAN network" videos. Do you have a scope, test light, wiring diagram, etc I wouldn't be so quick to call a ECM and if programming you're going to need a J-2534 pass thru and a good stable battery maintainer that has very little fluctuation in regards to ripple to give you the best error free environment when programming. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  2. Sounds like he's referencing the same bulb so that would mean the bulb is good. HE describes it as a different light initially but later in his post it seems he's asking why the light isn't coming on then. I could be incorrect. Regardless he needs to check the associated parking brake switch wiring, etc as suggested. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  3. You mentioned that filter cleaning a few weekends back and in your original post you mentioned it's been going on approximately 2 weeks or so. Sometime aftermarket filters have been know to cause issues which is one reason I got rid of the K&N filter I had in my 06 Impala. There was known issues so I tossed it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. Key on Engine off fuel pressure should be at 50-60psi. It may take a couple times of cycling the key to get it there initially. When you turn the key off the fuel pressure shouldn't drop more than 5psi over a 1min period. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. Also you're not in the salt belt as I am. Replaced my fuel pump at 70k miles as the bend in the line on the outside of the pump leading to the vehicle front was rusted thru. You could check your fuel pressure. IF you need those specs and such P.M. me thru the messaging system and we can chat off the forums. I can put those specs and such on paper and email them to you. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. Plugs, wires @ 100k? Changed air filter lately? You can post on scannerdanner.com. great people over. All very well versed in advanced diagnostics it seems plus the regular stuff. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  7. Many tools for this. I have a whistle that screws in and makes a large hissing sound. Made by Lisle and available at most decent parts stores, tool tucks and Amazon and other online tool retailers. If that’s the only plug removed it should not have pressure when winding up to compress. Make sure you’re on the compression stroke as well is what I was always taught.
  8. BE careful of what you use to clean the mass airflow sensor in regards to the TYPE of cleaner and in regards to the throttle body cleaning make sure you don't scratch the coating as the throttle body is coated and can be scratched very easily if using the wrong cleaner or TYPE of brush. Excuse the caps on some words as those pop up on their own as I use some words in some places where I have to use it for the search term. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. also I meant to say if you find somebody locally that can do a Fuel Injection Service cleaning that may help if you haven't did that since you've owned the vehicle. They cut the power to the fuel pump and if you have a return line they also make sure that's blocked off and then they hook a line in with a container that's pressurized and make sure that it's at the appropriate pressure an ad a fuel injection cleaning solution then start the vehicle and let it run on that liquid in the canister. If you want to see what I'm talking if you want to see what I'm talking about search OTC fuel injection cleaner tool. I don't know where you live but if you live near me we can always meet up then I can let you use mine if you need it clean? The solution that you use in those cleaners is actually usable in any of the vehicles you have. How many vehicles do you maintain? As it may be more feasible for you to just buy the tool if you have a air compressor. Then you just buy the solution and do it yourself. GM / ACDelco, BG and many others make fuel injection system cleaning fluids for these type of fuels. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. Have you had the fuel system cleaned by something other than the bottle treatment stuff you put in the fuel tank? Also depending on where you live you'd be surprised where fuel comes from. There's a fuel depot here in town and that's where all the local fuel companies get their fuel. Generally what happens after that is each company may put a 5gal bottle or less into the tankful they deliver to the station or stations they deliver to. The big name brands have their own trucks that deliver their fuel from the same "rack" that the rest of them have a fuel delivery company deliver their fuel from. I drove over the road for 13 1/2 yrs from 97 to 2010 and that's the way alot of their gas station / companies get their fuel / gas, from a local hauler or their own truck at the nearest fuel depot. You'd be surprised how many other companies are in line getting their fuel from where yours comes from. When I say line, yes they get a lines generally as fuel rolls in cycles based on demand. More people buying then more trucks in line at the rack to load to your local near or far stations as one rack can serve stations up to a few hundred miles away. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. Could be when the tech working on it at the dealer or from the factory there may be a burr of some type where the seal sits. One thing to do is just jack that side, the tire only a few inches off the ground and grab it and see if it wobbles up and down, side to side or in & out which may suggest bearing wear. Also where the seal mounts to the tube housing there could be a slight nick in the area where the seal drives in. If so some black RTV around the edge of the seal mounting surface would be some help as my local transmission shop had to do on mine. Another possibility could be the seal surface where the axle meets the seal is not smooth enough. IF you can remove the caliper, brakes and rotor you can view from the backside carefully with a bright light and see which side it's coming from. IF it's leaking from the backside then the RTV could help otherwise if from the axle assembly itself where it contacts the seal then you have to check the axle mating surface to see if a sleeve can be mated up to provide a smooth surface or replace the axle shaft from the center of the differential outwards. This means you'd have to drop the fluid and remove the pin holding the diff assembly together and disassemble it and inspect for defects in the axle assembly. I had something similar as I'd had my rear axle slide to the right and bump a curb and had to replace the seal 3 times. The 3rd time I'd taken it to the transmission shop and they cleared it up with the RTV on the axle. No issue in years "knock on wood" Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  12. My in-laws have never paid more than 82 k for a Decked Out Escalade EXT but they also have the money that they can pay cash. When I say it has everything it has everything. It protects the dash onto the windshield at night and has all kinds of other bells and whistles. They trade it in every 50,000 miles and get a new one. For the other person that said all they do is cart people around in these things, I have a 04 Chevy Tahoe with the 4.8 L engine and I have 126300 miles as of today. For seven years I told a 28 foot travel trailer pretty much every weekend every summer with this and it does great and I am still driving it. Camper got totaled out back in 2015 due to a water leak so we let Insurance take it and kept the money as when we lost $2,000 in depreciation over 7 years because it was new when we bought it but had been used as a demo model because the owner of the company I took it on a 1200 mile trip one time and then brought it back. I spent quite a bit of time with the flatbed trailer behind it as well all and stuff around to and from my storage unit not to mention when I rent equipment like a bobcat or something else I have to pull that home to do work. The wife don't like the pickup concept which I'm fine with that cuz I have an SUV and it's a single owner. It's just a base model with a 4.8 liter engine. I will run this until I can't legally drive it anymore because as long as I have an engine in it and the VIN number Remains the Same in the dash I can get oil changed for the lifetime of the vehicle for free every 3 months or 3,000 miles. Something the local dealers used to offer to compete with each other until GM came in and turned around and shut other dealerships down then once Consolidated there was only one and they took away the lifetime oil changes. Two of the three vehicles I have have lifetime oil changes this Tahoe and my wife's 06 Chevy Impala with a 3.9 engine. It can be a Flintstonemobile with new floor pans welded in to get me by and I will still drive it. Lol..... Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  13. I would push the dealership to see if they can put a new engine in there by chance. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. The dealer should be able to do more than you think. As they say "sh** rolls downhill", well GM. If there's a known documented issue they should be aware of it as it's customer service. Here's the thing, if you bash GM then essentially you're bashing the local dealer and with that being the case they should be overly concerned as you can affect their sales by making posts online, posting flyers, etc so the dealership should be really concerned as he represents the brand and they have to meet goals. Remember back when they closed all those underperforming dealerships after the U.S. taxpayers bailed GM out and now there's alot less dealerships and alot of livelihoods were affected over that from the top to the bottom in a dealership. I think you should keep rattling the dealership in person and make it where they get in touch with the right people to make it go away. You could always go to your state agency that enforces the lemon law with any and ALL DOCUMENTATION, proof of phone calls, dates, times, etc. I'd imagine it would be the attorney generals office of the state. Maybe a call to a lawyer that specializes in consumer financial protection may bring some help. You can call the state bar association and they could probably point you in the proper direction in regards to where you need to start. You may have many others out there with the same problem and the can of worms hasn't been opened. IF you private message me just your license plate number I have a way to lookup if there's service bulletins that apply to that vehicle from the manufacturer. A tsb is a known issue but not a recall yet. It's one of those things that if a customer comes in complaining do this step this step and this step and if they qualify then we may do this amount of work or this...... Let me know and I'll see what I can do for you. I just need the state in the license plate number and that enables me to pull the VIN number up and see what technical service bulletins are related from the manufacturer. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  15. Mode door actuator stuck possibly or something fell in HVAC box and jammed it up? Have it scanned with someone who has a decent scan er that can read body control modules (BCM) as if a actuator is bad it can show this. You'll still need to test the part based on the Code you get. You can try unplugging the battery for about 10 min and see if it clears. Codes like this are called "soft" codes as they don't request a check engine light from the computer. Any good parts place should have a decent scan tool but remember troubleshoot for the code and don't just throw parts otherwise it could get really expensive. Check out scannerdanner.com in the repair forums as there's alot of experience in there. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.