Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About dtnel78

  • Rank
  1. You'd have to call your local machine shop as prices vary all over the country. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  2. DD lq9 build

    Just remove the broken exhaust bolts or get the kit from pro maxx that has the bracket template, oil, drill bits and everything you'll need to drill em out without damage. If you call the guy they've been known to work with people on a custom kit. It'll pay for itself if you do some broken exhaust manifold bolts on the side for extra $$$$ Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. Brake Issue

    You haven't replaced the brakes lately and when you push the caliper pins in forget to open the bleed screw and let the brake fluid flow out the rear of the caliper. A lot of people don't realize that pushing backwards back in the ABS module can damage it. Check the fluid and if it's black or dark then flush the system as gunk may be in there. If your mechanic didn't do it Jack the wheel off the ground on front one side at a time about 1-2 inches and use a pry bar and while prying up and releasing push in and pull out on upper part of tire and feel for a loose bearing. Check the wiring over thoroughly and make sure you don't have any breaks in it anywhere. Check for binds or stretching of wiring when you have the wheel turned right. Being a 99 it probably only has 2 wheel ABS as my 04 Tahoe has just the front wheels as that was the norm until mid 2000's when they changed it. I want to say 05-06 maybe sooner on vehicles optioned with it as I have a 04 Base model over here in Sioux Falls South Dakota. With the proper tools you can measure the pressure the calipers are putting out with the wheel off and the caliper pulled off the rotor. It can tell me if I have a caliper pin or pins sticking, not applying equal pressure on same caliper pins or from one side to the other side of the vehicle. The kit came with 2 pressure pads and they each have a pressure gauge. Saw it and bought it and waiting to try it out and review it next spring / summer possibly. You said the ABS isn't on but when you're turning the wheel right and this happens does the brake or ABS light come on at all or even momentarily? If so this could help diagnose. Remember you're in the rust belt so the hub assemble may be starting to show it's ugly face. Good thing is they're easy enough you can change it yourself. I changed one a few years ago when I went to Northwest Iowa and on the way back I could hear the wheel bearing going bad. Pulled into Jackson MN and went to Sturdevants and got one there since I get em at shop rate. They loaned me most of the tools, impact wrench included to change it in the bank parking lot adjacent to their building. I only bought the tools I scratched which was 2 sockets and a $20 Ratchet so it was money well saved. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. Did you verify that the codes wouldn't affect the transmission? Codes normally means something needs to be checked. Checking the codes and the test procedures may help resolve what the issue is. Computerized vehicles these days can be real fussy compared to the prehistoric Blazers and even the Jimmy's. Most codes can be looked up and figured out how to test them whether it be a multimeter, power probe, labscope (Oscilloscope) or even other tools. Just because you had good luck with 2 other vehicles don't always mean you won't have trouble with the 3rd vehicle. Is this something you've owned a long time, recently acquired, etc? Reason I ask is sometimes people purchase vehicles and find out there's problems shortly after. When I purchase a used vehicle first place it goes after I get it home is the transmission shop and I have them do a complete service on the transmission, filter, oil (no reverse flush as this damages them more than it does good they've found anymore). I bring it home and do diff, axle fluids, oil, coolant and other fluid changes and flushing so it's all good for the harsh winters we get. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. Any codes? Have you thrown a labscope on it yet? Injectors working fine? I'm sure there's more I'm missing. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. Check engine light flashing in

    IF you get it scanned and they say it's a misfire and you need a coil, before you lay down your hard earned money for a coil check the spark plugs, spark plug wires. IF those are good switch the coil pack with a known good cylinder. Example if they say #3 cylinder has misfire then swap the #3 and #5 coil pack and after swapping it clear codes, check for flashing light again. IF the light is flashing then check the code and if the cylinder you moved the coil pack to is now misfiring then I'd be safe to say you have a bad coil pack. Normally I'd advise testing it with a lab scope as I believe each part should be verified bad and the replacement verified working properly as you don't want to do the "Parts Cannon" which is just throwing parts at it. A lot of inexperienced and even experienced mechanics do this and it's not good for the industry. Also if you replace a part that's good and it fixes something it could be temporary as the weak failed part may be causing further failures. LEt us know what you find. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  7. When you cleaned the throttle body you didn't manually force the flap open did you? There's a way you can get it to open and clean it that way being that the vehicles are drive by wire anymore with no throttle cable. Any other codes? Did you clear the engine codes, key back off then key back on before starting? Also does it do this after fully warmed up or was it just initially? How did it use to start prior to the code? Had you had the code for a long time? IF none of that helps head over to scanner Danner.com and create an account and post in the forums there. Make sure to include all information required when posting. Great techs over there, top notch!! Also copy and paste or link this thread so they know what you've did and don't have to type it all over again. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. Does your truck have the upper intake Plenum as they have on the 04 Tahoe? I have the 04 with the 4.8 and have knock sensor codes and have to remove the upper intake Plenum to replace the knock sensors. Did you torque the sensors, torque the intake Plenum gasket if that's what you have or if you have regular intake did you torque that properly and torque the throttle body as well as other things that needed properly torqued. I can't remember if 06 or 07 they switched body styles again? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference with the engine's though. Just what your describing almost sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you get all hoses back on? IF so maybe take some brake parts cleaner, very little and spray lightly around the gasket areas. IF you have a leak the rpm's will increase wherever the leak is. You can always spray water as well it'll just clean the top of the pistons when it steams them. Did you verify the knock sensors were bad before replacing them and then once replaced make sure they're working properly? A labscope makes this easy if you have one. Were you getting codes showing the knock sensors were bad initially? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. Thank you for many years of support

    Where did he wind up going after he left A1 Auto? Parts house elsewhere, etc
  10. Has the shop bothered putting it on a scope? A scope can catch intermittent issues better than not but only when they show themselves. Fuel pressure? What's fuel trims at? Have you checked the fuel pump pressure resting with key forward, running and driving? If they hook it up to a scan tool and watch certain live data while driving if it acts up then maybe they'll see something. Check the plug connectors for the coil packs, check them for corrosion, tightness, etc. The P0300 is random multiple misfire if I recollect properly. IS there any other codes such as a cylinder misfire that could be giving a 2nd , 3rd code that you forgot to mention? Main thing is compare scan tool data when it's running fine vs running bad. When it had the code it should've stored live data about the conditions at the time it set that could've been retrieved. IF the code is still in there then the data could be accessible. Did they relearn the crankshaft position sensor? I can't recall if it needs done on that year model but I do know it needs done with some stuff when you replace it. Definitely post back what you eventually find that solves the problem as it could help the next person plus it would be good to see what the end result yet. I wouldn't call a ecm yet on it. Head over to Scanner Danner .com , register and post the question in their forums. Very knowledgeable people there and it may get answered fairly quickly. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. 4L60E issue

    PWM delete? You can have it scanned at a autozone for free and see if you have any codes to see if that can give you a direction before you take it to a transmission shop and plunk down a bunch of money for something that could be simple? Have you checked the wiring harness, check for any corrosion at the connection points, check for any corrosion hooking up to the transmission ECM? It could be something simple such as one of those or you just clean it up real good and put some good proper lubricating grease on it design for electrical contacts. On a side note whenever I get a vehicle that's used that I plan on keeping for personal or family use I generally run it down to the transmission shop, have them drop the pan, service it complete, take it for a test drive and let me know of anything else that they see or feel is wrong before I put it on the road. I don't want to be stranded and I don't want any members of my family stranded. Most often when I do this I find that liver had the vehicle before me didn't take care of the transmission as it should have been. These Transmissions these days are finicky even down to the type of transmission fluid you need to use and that varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I do know mine always get synthetic in them because that's what the transmission shop uses. Definitely drop us a line and let us know what you figure out what the transmission shop unless you figure it out before then. It's good to hear back that way we have reference material to fall back on at times. Have a good day! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  12. Was em all the time. Just have to be careful of what you do. I do it about twice a year and my 04 Tahoe and 06 Impala look like new under the hood. No Electrical issues! Knock on wood!! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  13. DID a quick Google search since I'm heading out door and only searched 08 GMC no models but this was the first return I got. Let me know if it works for you or not. https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/removing-fuel-rail-452322/ Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  14. Only thing I can think of right now is check one of the online tire stores and put your vehicle data in and it should be able to tell you what you need. You can experiment a little with sizes and see what you can go with size wise. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  15. Looking for the part number for the bolts for the intake plenum and washers as I'll have to remove the plenum to do the knock sensors. Was doing some reading and noticed in a discussion on a different site that it's supposed to be important that you replace the intake plenum bolts and crush washers. IF anyone has any information on this and can tell me where I can find these parts that would be great. I'd like to avoid the dealership if possible as we all know they're going to cost more. I have a the Mahle intake gaskets already that the parts store had. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.