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dtnel78

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About dtnel78

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  1. Still recommended to do a relearn as when you clean and remove that carbon with the vehicle turned off the carbon is removed as you stated but if you had enough carbon buildup over time the throttle body blade could move incrementally, those small adjustments the video talks about so it's highly recommended to do a relearn regardless. The smallest nuances can make a difference. I've heard but not tried that there is other methods that work such as removing both battery cables from the battery and holding them together for a small set period of time resets the computer to default settings. I'll be finding out for sure on the throttle body myself here in the next day or two as I have the upper intake plenum pulled as I had to replace the knock sensors Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  2. Have to do a throttle body relearn if by memory serves me correct. The throttle body was use to a certain setting and now it was cleaned and it's saying "I don't know what to do" Hope if you used a brush it wasn't a wire brush. Probably need a bidirectional scanner. Any reputable shop should have this type of scanner if it's halfway decent. Today's vehicles are more complex than prior to 2004 or so and prior. Maybe googling it may give you a different method but I use the tool. If you've got a friend with a fancy scan tool he might be the one to talk to. Stay away from those part's store mechanics. You'll probably get better information over at scannerdanner.com as there's some pretty seasoned guys over there. Here's a method I found on YouTube. Procedure would be similar since you cleaned it. #dontbeapartschanger Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  3. Your right on the money. I saw in the last week where they did that upgrade with the cutting and welding of the bracket but the motor, well they've got big plans for it. I want to say it's a channel I'm subscribed to on YouTube, maybe Power Nation. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  4. Well with the possibility of redoing the motor you made a easy answer get a little tougher. I'd just call a salvage yard and see if they have a HD version of your transmission that'll bolt up even if you have to swap the flywheel out. Get a good used one with a few month warranty on it, after installing it take it to a transmission shop and have them service it and check the solenoids over and make any necessary adjustments if needed. You can check out car-part.com which has hundreds of salvage yards nationwide. The local one up here Nordstrom's Automotive has a 199 day warranty, ships nationwide. Can get you remanufactured transmissions. They make sure everything works as well before selling. IF you may be in the market for a good rebuilder vehicle they have plenty on their site and have alot of photos so you know what you're getting yourself into. If you want to get into rebuilding a wrecked pickup to maybe upgrade some years newer check out the YouTube channel Vehcor as he knows his stuff. He's even got a silverado series truck he did awhile back that was really nice. I think someone offered him enough so he sold it to them. He does alot of flips it seems. You have to price them right, know your compatibilities or ask around and people will help. Yeah I know I got off topic but you can get a good engine with half the miles and not have to rebuild one unless that's just something you want to do. Find a 3/4 ton and rebuild that and you'll be set for pulling. The website is Nordstroms Automotive. I always just look it up on Google and go from there. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  5. BAd part is these companies move these jobs based on unions and the vehicles don't cost any less at a dealership. Why not keep those jobs jb America? The same mfr GM could move to Southern U.S. and build same truck and have it come from the United States but no they go to Mexico and still avoid Tariffs that go back to the 60's which by the way those Tariffs have absolutely nothing to do with Trump though those who are ill informed would love you to think otherwise. Toyota and many other car mfrs have been setting up shop in the United States for years with non union workers and providing decent jobs with decent pay without the bureaucratic union B.S. I'm anti but also pro union at the same time. There's things that could be done better on both sides of the aisles from the Unions and the companies perspectives. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  6. IS this the stock ECM? Wonder if it's been replaced and maybe not setup properly. I'd check over at scannerdanner.com and ask someone like Tyler or one of the other longtime members. They'd be able to give you some good direction on this. I am a member and use the site frequently. Another option if you're a tech, owner, etc in the industry is a website called diag.net which helps techs help techs and you get good shop responses. Have you checked to see that the network is alive? Do you have power, ground, etc on the pins at the OBDII port? You can search YouTube for "checking the CAN network" videos. Do you have a scope, test light, wiring diagram, etc I wouldn't be so quick to call a ECM and if programming you're going to need a J-2534 pass thru and a good stable battery maintainer that has very little fluctuation in regards to ripple to give you the best error free environment when programming. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  7. Sounds like he's referencing the same bulb so that would mean the bulb is good. HE describes it as a different light initially but later in his post it seems he's asking why the light isn't coming on then. I could be incorrect. Regardless he needs to check the associated parking brake switch wiring, etc as suggested. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  8. You mentioned that filter cleaning a few weekends back and in your original post you mentioned it's been going on approximately 2 weeks or so. Sometime aftermarket filters have been know to cause issues which is one reason I got rid of the K&N filter I had in my 06 Impala. There was known issues so I tossed it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. Key on Engine off fuel pressure should be at 50-60psi. It may take a couple times of cycling the key to get it there initially. When you turn the key off the fuel pressure shouldn't drop more than 5psi over a 1min period. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. Also you're not in the salt belt as I am. Replaced my fuel pump at 70k miles as the bend in the line on the outside of the pump leading to the vehicle front was rusted thru. You could check your fuel pressure. IF you need those specs and such P.M. me thru the messaging system and we can chat off the forums. I can put those specs and such on paper and email them to you. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. Plugs, wires @ 100k? Changed air filter lately? You can post on scannerdanner.com. great people over. All very well versed in advanced diagnostics it seems plus the regular stuff. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  12. Many tools for this. I have a whistle that screws in and makes a large hissing sound. Made by Lisle and available at most decent parts stores, tool tucks and Amazon and other online tool retailers. If that’s the only plug removed it should not have pressure when winding up to compress. Make sure you’re on the compression stroke as well is what I was always taught.
  13. BE careful of what you use to clean the mass airflow sensor in regards to the TYPE of cleaner and in regards to the throttle body cleaning make sure you don't scratch the coating as the throttle body is coated and can be scratched very easily if using the wrong cleaner or TYPE of brush. Excuse the caps on some words as those pop up on their own as I use some words in some places where I have to use it for the search term. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. also I meant to say if you find somebody locally that can do a Fuel Injection Service cleaning that may help if you haven't did that since you've owned the vehicle. They cut the power to the fuel pump and if you have a return line they also make sure that's blocked off and then they hook a line in with a container that's pressurized and make sure that it's at the appropriate pressure an ad a fuel injection cleaning solution then start the vehicle and let it run on that liquid in the canister. If you want to see what I'm talking if you want to see what I'm talking about search OTC fuel injection cleaner tool. I don't know where you live but if you live near me we can always meet up then I can let you use mine if you need it clean? The solution that you use in those cleaners is actually usable in any of the vehicles you have. How many vehicles do you maintain? As it may be more feasible for you to just buy the tool if you have a air compressor. Then you just buy the solution and do it yourself. GM / ACDelco, BG and many others make fuel injection system cleaning fluids for these type of fuels. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  15. Have you had the fuel system cleaned by something other than the bottle treatment stuff you put in the fuel tank? Also depending on where you live you'd be surprised where fuel comes from. There's a fuel depot here in town and that's where all the local fuel companies get their fuel. Generally what happens after that is each company may put a 5gal bottle or less into the tankful they deliver to the station or stations they deliver to. The big name brands have their own trucks that deliver their fuel from the same "rack" that the rest of them have a fuel delivery company deliver their fuel from. I drove over the road for 13 1/2 yrs from 97 to 2010 and that's the way alot of their gas station / companies get their fuel / gas, from a local hauler or their own truck at the nearest fuel depot. You'd be surprised how many other companies are in line getting their fuel from where yours comes from. When I say line, yes they get a lines generally as fuel rolls in cycles based on demand. More people buying then more trucks in line at the rack to load to your local near or far stations as one rack can serve stations up to a few hundred miles away. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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