Nitrousbird

So these are pretty easy to find on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/317792903215?fits=Make%3AChevrolet&_skw=For+2015-2018+Chevrolet+Silverado+Wireless+Charger+Tray+15W&itmmeta=01KHBXW6JMN15TT4JPS5PFEFQ0&hash=item49fdeee02f:g:B4EAAOSwOB1oHBJb&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABIGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBosOND%2BaIMnRIoNs8WxBNcXvOXRp5E8FApOWKjBDT9v9vIl8N%2FjKZIf3SGxNNK461CEvyMkiCGGniGrf%2FzA5OoYSowhRpn0SH0DfOj8df6Ddyc6N9G7KkHqX3bZ2xYfk0itM%2Bg1XL5bDm1v9LA7B%2BtlSRh97oMpM%2BNlDF8LiCrlh9eKwYZ8n43yfiOx1ucmbMdxR14joDg5Qtq38c92XhnWOU00e4PD00%2BjzwqKQ33Mm6hi31Myy3XE8CvnUO2egtUdVjbyMU8cxyL4%2F44qGmrETojo5%2Bxsmjr1c6wqBqK0sEY8EnWb46Pb2AzXXw6KUKMSB0zv7Puwv4UOIeiGAUnkfitJkTE4OahfHvV412V4A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM_unw_Ypn Anyone do the upgrade? Even with the "improved" wireless charger in the 2018, it is absolute trash, and I never use it. It is too slow and the tray is too narrow for modern, large phones (I rock a S24 Ultra currently). I'm also curious about this one: https://www.amazon.com/CZmenghe-Compatible-2015-2018-Replacement-Accessories/dp/B0GLZB7MV2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2D2H62KEHK0GW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rCjDHNGPtsOkRUUbdH0-4sfHNjikh-OTcqZ2U2Gl3g2LOUzDKVxKv6yPEYPr-e_x0eltka8MA7SrnlNFKAEF569RxBCoGYztErBMO91SxxrzXCdyd2nzR4HKJycb-MxQYctoEvEjZZPuDIVJsr4JFvOFcadq_ucU0invUjozXzIJiPQPiWonozgGFMmzjP0m_HsL0nZhBRdbzhC29JQotfBV-2C7DnVPMqmihJBviWs.oIPCF2YEj9A3MBXa0kz_UytSkjfiQr2AH6YEKg0Nsw4&dib_tag=se&keywords=2018%2Bsilverado%2B15w%2Bwireless%2Bcharger&qid=1771000411&sprefix=2018%2Bsilverado15w%2Bwireless%2Bcharger%2Caps%2C300&sr=8-5&th=1 More expensive but has the magent built-in as well.

Mine is 7 years, 4 months old, and it still works. This includes going 2 weeks in an airport parking lot recently, where it was at or below freezing the whole time. How long is everyone else getting before these are finally dying? My wife made it 12 years on the original battery in her Audi S4...but that one is bigger than what our trucks get, and Audi does a lot of battery management that GM doesn't. Just curious how long I'll be able to stretch it.

Replaced the rears this weekend - inner pads on both sides were totally done with the outers having maybe 10-15% lift left but were not making full rotor contact. Rotors looked like trash. Same look as my front ones looked like last year. I'm now rocking new factory rotors all around and upgraded to my go-to street pads (Akebono). Slider pins were in perfect shape and no other issues I could find, just premature wear.

I've owned my late build 2018 since new. Had to replace the front pads (and rotors) a year ago at 25k miles. Pads worn, not making contact on the whole rotor face, making noise - the normal not working situation. I replaced with Akebono pads and OEM rotors. Now, at 36k (by far the most miles I've driven this truck in a year, somehow), the rears are gone with the same issue. I'd say half of my miles are long trips on the freeway, with the rest mixed use of interstate, back roads and surface streets. 3k miles of towing, but 2k of it is all long trips, all with trailers with functional brakes. Just seems really poor pad life though my last two trucks were on non-OEM pads, so hard to say what their original pad life was.

'18 SLT Premium Plus w/ the L86, 36k miles. I first had this problem in mid-June. Towing my 24' enclosed trailer packed with our SXS and a bunch of other stuff (probably around 7500lbs total), after driving for hours on the highway, pulled off, stuck in traffic for 10 minutes, and then stopped for gas. Filled up and upon restart, it cranked REALLY SLOW. Thought it might not crank over but it did. Temp was in the 90's. Since then, I've had it happen a couple more times, only after towing. The last time was yesterday...this time, only towed a 1/2 hour with the trailer empty and hauling nothing else (so 4000lbs). Only low 70's out and the truck sat for 20 minutes before restarting it and got a slow crank again. No signs of battery issues. I will go weeks without using the truck and fires up quickly every time. Is starter heat soak a normal issue for these trucks? Should I swap out the starter? I've owned it since new and this is the first I've had with this problem. Water/tranny temps all good.

Blackstone saved me some big money. My Vette had titanium in the oil - punted it while I could sell it for a profit.

Totally random flashing. May stay out for several seconds, be solid for a while, flash in and out quickly or slowly. Nothing that one could indicate being some type of trouble code.

Still rocking the factory battery. Mine gets the added bonus of not getting run for weeks a time, so not the easiest battery life. Never seen a charger.

Late build 2018 with 20k miles. The backlight on the AC button likes to flash. Will do it while driving, will do it while parked, will do it whether I push the button or not. Sometimes it will be solid, sometimes totally out, but mostly flashes on and off. Besides replacing the who HVAC control panel, any reasonable fixes for this? Annoying. No other buttons have this problem.

I use the USB in center console compartment for my AAWIreless device, so Android Auto is all wireless for me The wireless chargers in these trucks are a total joke, in both power and being too small. The other USB ports in the open part of the center console charge way too slowly as well. I'd like to repurpose them to actually have some real charging with no connection with the head unit. Any ideas on a good way to accomplish this? I realize I can plug in a 12V charger, but I want it to be as clean looking as possible. I currently have my 45W quick charger in the center console 12V slot and fish the cable through the cutout under the lid, but hate the cable going over the cup holder. Basically, I'd like to feed this 45W charger directly to the built in USB ports (or at least 1 port), so I can just plug in a 6" USB-A to USB-C cable, or change the port out to be a USB-C port.

Carvana offered me more than I paid for my truck new. Problem is finding a replacement truck. Tried at my go-to high volume dealer (as they have sane prices), but nothing in-stock for what I want (loaded AT4 with the diesel or 6.2). I've decided to wait until the '22 comes out then try upgrading then, as they are supposed to have an updated interior. I realize I will be paying more but if I can drive my truck for almost 3 years for nothing or next to nothing, I can deal with that and have a newer, even nicer truck. But it will require both getting the right truck and the right price for mine or I'll simply keep mine.

Just use Android Auto or CarPlay, then use Google Maps or Waze. FAR better maps and won't cost you anything. If you happen to be going to an area without cell service, simply download the offline maps. No reason to use the built-in garbage GPS.

Go to YouTube and subscribe to Goat Rope Garage. He has a tutorial series (and it is pretty in-depth) that you can start learning from. There is a LOT to it and he covers a ton of stuff. If you want to really start tuning beyond disabling AFM and the easy stuff, you need to get a wideband. I recommend the AEM 30-0334. It connects via OBD, so you don't have to use the Pro Link to pole data from it, HP Tuners fully supports it, and has a fast response rate.

There is a company on eBay that sell stainless exhaust bolts (alloyboltz). I bought a set of header studs for my LS7 and the quality is actually really good while being FAR cheaper than the ARP bolts. I would recommend going that route. Once my truck is out of warranty - and assuming I keep it - I will be doing this upgrade on it.

Tip for anyone doing this upgrade (and why wouldn't you, it's pretty cheap and a great upgrade): in the settings app, set it to Passthrough. I was having some inconsistent connection issues and this resolved it. It is also connecting faster now - as fast or faster than when I was plugging it in directly.

First, you buy this: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Install the setup app from the Play store on your phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.aawireless&hl=en_US&gl=US I added Velcro to the back of it so it would stay in place. Plug in the USB and setup via the app. I also like the feature where it will start directly to Android Auto without having to hit the button for it. Connection takes a little longer than wired, but doesn't feel any longer than the Android Auto Wireless connection on the Kenwood unit in my Vette. I'm so glad this is now available - having to plug in a wire every time I get in my truck sucked and I got way to used to it in my car. Edit: Before someone asks...yes, your truck needs to have wired Android Auto in it for this to work.

This doesn't really take a study. Carvana a couple months ago offered more for mine than what I paid for it new (mind you, I got my for 17k under MSRP, so that does help). That's a nice offer that I wanted to take, but I have since struggled to find a replacement truck. I'm just waiting for the '22 AT4 to come out with the updated interior now.

Had an incident today. I'm getting rid of a long-term project I'm sick of seeing and don't want to finish. Many years stored outdoors and I was just prepping for pics/sale. While driving it back to it's spot (after also inflating the tires), the strap holding it failed. Parking brake is also bad I discovered, and the blocks of wood that were there for wheel chalks were also not sufficient (stick car with no engine in it). Only damage is the tailgate. Magically not even a mark on any part of the bumper and no paint damage either. I'm guessing an insurance claim but if I can keep in under 1k I might not. Not sure if just the outer skin is sold, the whole tailgate, etc. I suck at body work but can easily disassemble it and do whatever is needed. Thought on the direction I should go for this repair.

So can anyone comment on the exhaust ticking sound (not the normal diesel knocking sound). I just want to verify whether it is normal OR if it was because of the crappy lifted truck I test drove. Thinking more about it, the diesel probably makes more sense for me. I don't really put the hammer down often on my current truck. Fuel mileage or even the additional $1500 for the 6.2 isn't a big factor. But range is a factor, as when we do long trips, that longer range would be beneficial. Also, from what I've seen on these towing videos, the diesel seems a little more laid back when putting the power down and is quieter doing that, which is obviously less tiring. I do not want a loud truck...I have a loud car for that fix, as well as my speed fix. Speaking with the wife, we may end up adding 1-2 extra long towing trips a year going forward, so that becomes a bigger priority.

That's totally missing my point. In the Denali and AT4, they come standard with the spray-in liner, so the CarbonPro isn't offsetting that cost. Same goes for the SLT Premium Plus packaged trucks. The Elevation and lower models can't get the CarbonPro package, so it's a moot point. The only savings is if you buy a SLT base or SLT Premium package, then then the CarbonPro package is partly paid for by not ordering the spray-in liner. Good luck finding an SLT optioned like that.

Why not just use the SiriusXM app on your phone?

But who ported the MSD intake? There have been cases where porting actually has hurt the MSD performance over stock, due to the person doing the porting not being good at what they do. Now if it was a Mamo ported MSD, that's a different story. I have an MSD on my LS7 and I know I'm leaving a good 20 RWHP on the table not having Mamo port it - leaving another 15-20 RWHP more due to the stock TB (car has ported heads and a big cam, so it can make use of the extra airflow).

I've decided to make the upgrade as well. I have an '18 SLT Premium Plus with the 6.2L. It was as close to a Denali Ultimate that you could get without getting one - I then did then the Denali cluster (which in the '19+ is the AT4 and Denali cluster) and wheels to get it that much closer. The '19+ trucks have a lot more toys available than the '14 - '18 trucks For me, I'm fine with the cab room, ride, power, etc. on my '18 - heck, if it wasn't for the stupid money being offered on newer, low mileage vehicles like mine, I'd just keep it. But the newer ones are nicer for sure. No complaints about the 8-speed, though. I had the shudder issues and the dealer flushed it with the new fluid that totally resolved the issue. After looking at the '21 Denali and AT4, I like the AT4 better. I think it looks better and I won't complain that is is cheaper. Only difference is all the chrome and fake wood I don't like, Mag Ride I have very mixed feelings about, and power running boards I could always add later (and likely would). One downside is the tonneau covers for the '19+ are differnet, so my $1000 Undercover Ultra Flex won't transfer over. Unless I get more for trade, I'm pulling that and selling it but will lose my butt on it I'm sure. Catch can is different between the 6.2 motors, so that will be sold as well. I expected to keep her for several more years - who would have thought I would be getting offers for more than I paid for it new 2.5 years later?

The ticking sounded like it was from the exhaust in the back of the truck. It wasn't the diesel knocking sound, it was an audible tick (higher pitch). I wasn't thrilled to drive this "upgrade" truck (hell, even the bolts holding on the flares had corrosion - on a brand new truck). There were rattles that I know wouldn't be there on a stock truck and the ride sucked. I didn't hammer it off the line, but did a hammering at 5-10MPH and it just didn't have a lot to show for it. It's too bad I couldn't have driven a proper example, but we have a lot of GMC dealers and inventory is total crap, unfortunately.

Test drove a 3.0 today. My local dealers are super light on inventory currently (checked the three closest); found one with a 3.0. Unfortunately, it had a crappy upfitter lift kit/tires on it, ruining the ride (and cheap wheel flares). Not that I was buying from them, but at least wanted to drive a diesel. Stop and go, traffic, cruising, I liked the diesel a lot - probably more than the 6.2L. One issue, and I'm not sure if it was an issue with this truck or in general, is the diesel makes a ticking sound from the exhaust with anything more than the slightest throttle application. Is this normal? It was annoying and always went away letting off the gas. It was easy to notice (radio off, windows closed). Other complaint was the acceleration...just felt doggish when I hammer it. Where the 6.2L feels like it is scooting, the diesel was pretty flat. Now I'm sure the lift/bigger tires are part of the problem, but it felt that way hammering off the line too, which should have been a little less of an impact. To be fair, I haven't drove my truck in a couple weeks and have been driving the Vette, so my sense of acceleration is more than a bit skewed. Otherwise, loved the rest of the truck - tons of new toys not available when I bought my truck.